panhard bar install question

GT915

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Today I installed my new BMR springs, GT500 strut mounts and Koni STR.T struts and shocks. I removed the bolts from my stock panhard bar to install my adjustable one and it still wouldn't budge. It was getting late and I was afraid that if it did pry it out, that I wouldn't be able to get the new one into position. I intend to try again tomorrow. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I also have LCA and relo brackets. Are they gonna be a bitch as well?
 

corruptor

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You probably just need to use more brute strength. Stock bar should come out relatively easily. Aftermarket bar may be more difficult due to bushings being slightly thicker, in which case you need a mallet or an extra set of hands.
 

charba951

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Try PB blaster on them or any other spray lube wd40 etc. I would spray it overnight.

This. Make sure to line up your new panhard bar with the stock one to get the right lenghth too! Just put a bolt through one end and size it up. A lot easier than figuring out why it's too long or too short lol.
 

WHSTLR

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On the stock bar, brute strength like previously mentioned. Pick an end and pull down hard, it will come. And also as mentioned, line up the new with the old bolts and you should be good or close. Mine was lowered 1.5 so it ended up squeezing in a tad which is why it was so hard to pull out.
 

sloppymax

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If it is the passenger side you are having issues with then loosen the bolt that holds the panhard brace just above the panhard bar. As soon as I loosened that, the bar came out much easier then I was able to pull it out of the driver side.
 

dirtyd88

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Those PHB bolts can be a pain in the ass. It makes it easier to put the car on a lift and use your whole body to torque those puppies loose.
 

GT915

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If it is the passenger side you are having issues with then loosen the bolt that holds the panhard brace just above the panhard bar. As soon as I loosened that, the bar came out much easier then I was able to pull it out of the driver side.
This sounds like what I shouldve thought about last night. I'll hit it PB Blaster and loosen this brace and hopefully I can get this thing swapped out. It sure would be nice if I had a lift instead of just a hydraulic floor jack and some jack stands.
 

sloppymax

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This sounds like what I shouldve thought about last night. I'll hit it PB Blaster and loosen this brace and hopefully I can get this thing swapped out. It sure would be nice if I had a lift instead of just a hydraulic floor jack and some jack stands.

I was thinking the same thing this weekend when on my back with the car on ramps while replacing the phb and brace.
 

KWClutch

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I had to use a rubber mallet and a breaker bar. I ended up sticking the breaker bar in the small area above the upper mount and prying it out. The aftermarket one wasn't going in at all either. I didn't know if mine was a one off but it seems like they over torqued that mount and bent it. I had to pry it open a little before my BMR would even fit.
 

VT4ever

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If it is the passenger side you are having issues with then loosen the bolt that holds the panhard brace just above the panhard bar. As soon as I loosened that, the bar came out much easier then I was able to pull it out of the driver side.

This is exactly what I did. Before I loosened the brace my PHB was pretty much stuck. I loosened the brace bolts and the PHB came out easy, no force required.
 

Activ8ed

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Those PHB bolts can be a pain in the ass. It makes it easier to put the car on a lift and use your whole body to torque those puppies loose.

Agree! Had to put the car on lift to do this. I also did the whole weight balance/ string thing to make sure it was even once back on ground. Really helps once its time to start making sure its alligned.
 

dirtyd88

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Agree! Had to put the car on lift to do this. I also did the whole weight balance/ string thing to make sure it was even once back on ground. Really helps once its time to start making sure its alligned.
My buddy and I figured out that placing a piece of masking tape across the wheel opening, leveled at the top edge of the rim, and using the distance to determine center was pretty wuick too.
 

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