"Over-Rev" Feature

02GTKB

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So far can not find any answers on how to remove the "Over-Rev" set by Ford which allows the rpm light go from 6250 to 7k rpm once at 170* which at this point and time the car is heat soaked and not wise to get the most power on a dyno pull. Anyone have info on this? Or is it there regardless but you can still push it past 6250rpm while under 170*?
 

Chancey

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So far can not find any answers on how to remove the "Over-Rev" set by Ford which allows the rpm light go from 6250 to 7k rpm once at 170* which at this point and time the car is heat soaked and not wise to get the most power on a dyno pull. Anyone have info on this? Or is it there regardless but you can still push it past 6250rpm while under 170*?
Im no expert by any means, but I would want mine up to temp (at least the 170 or more) before I rev it anywhere near redline. Keep in mind the 2013-24’s are designed to do so. Unless you have modded to over 800-850 whp when dyno-ing, it should be fine. My 2 cents are: I wouldnt over rev all day, but I would want it up to temperature before running it hard.
 

02GTKB

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So you want to change the rev limiter? That keeps you from blowing your engine?
No not remove it lol. The safety feature Ford has set in the tach area, the red line that starts at 6250rpm and will go aways once the cars engine temps reach 170* it will move that red line to 7k. But I would never just start the car up and do a pull cold start that is common sense, but I feel it sitting on the dyno idling waiting for 170* engine temps is hurting the potential for most hp, and yes talking about dyno pulls nothing else. Goal is to be north 800whp
 

2011 gtcs

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No not remove it lol. The safety feature Ford has set in the tach area, the red line that starts at 6250rpm and will go aways once the cars engine temps reach 170* it will move that red line to 7k. But I would never just start the car up and do a pull cold start that is common sense, but I feel it sitting on the dyno idling waiting for 170* engine temps is hurting the potential for most hp, and yes talking about dyno pulls nothing else. Goal is to be north 800whp
I wouldn't be taking your engine much higher than 6k with 800+whp on stock rods. My 2013 GT500 with a 3.6KB made 827whp at 6,100rpms.
 

Chancey

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Dyno pulls are harder on the vehicle than most any driving you can do. Am I wrong?
I think you are right on that note, because the car is just sitting and a shop fan cannot pump as much air as when the car is scooting down the road. Pick a cool day if possible to get all you can out of the dyno if thats your main goal. Let us know what it puts out!
 

02GTKB

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Dyno pulls are harder on the vehicle than most any driving you can do. Am I wrong?
Very true, I just did not know if tuners disable that feature or not thats all. But if we need to let it sit until engine temps rise so be it. I think middle of May in upstate NY should be somewhat cool but we will see.
 

02GTKB

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I wouldn't be taking your engine much higher than 6k with 800+whp on stock rods. My 2013 GT500 with a 3.6KB made 827whp at 6,100rpms.
Yes we talked about boost and pulley selections etc. But the way I drive the car is worth for me to push it to limit. I do not drag the car, just an occasional street pull or race and shut it down. So I requested the hottest tune Lund gives and want to achieve 22psi. The car has less restriction parts than it did with the old 2.8 setup.
 

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...sitting on the dyno idling waiting for 170* engine temps is hurting the potential for most hp... Goal is to be north 800whp
It seems like you're equating engine/coolant temp with IAT2, which are very different. As I understand it, timing is pulled ("hurting the potential for most hp") based on IAT2, not engine/coolant temp. Moreover, 170' is about as "cool" as I'd want the engine when asking it to output max power. Finally, 800RWHP means you're pushing over 900HP at the crank. Like @2011 gtcs, I wouldn't rev beyond 6K at that power level - based on what I've read, you're tempting fate.

...But the way I drive the car is worth for me to push it to limit. I do not drag the car, just an occasional street pull or race and shut it down. So I requested the hottest tune Lund gives and want to achieve 22psi...
I've also read reports of these engines failing during "an occasional street pull or race." It does not require consistent abuse, but only pushing "the hottest tune" too far once, to permanently damage your engine and 22psi is a lot of boost.
 

biminiLX

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FYI, a street or track pull is more stress than a dyno pull.
If you’ve ever had a turbo car on a dyno, even a loaded Mustang dyno, and then datalogged the same tune on the track or street (with Traction), you’ll find more boost and a lean condition if your EFI is not adding fuel.
The reason is there is more load in the real world, and more load is more stress. A dyno is definitely not harder on the car. It’s a great tuning tool.
If you have a goal to hit 800rwhp on the dyno, well that’s the best place to go for it.
Not sure I’d want to test that on the street though.
No shame in having a dyno queen. My buddies call our cars the Ford Supras for that reason. When they called the GT500 class at NMRA, everybody lined up at the mobile dyno :)
Should make some good power at 22psi, good luck.
-J
 

02GTKB

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Talked with Lund yea best to leave it alone, but it is possible for tuners to kind of get rid of that protection. Like I was told, is it really worth 15-20hp over destroying the motor? But yes even on a dyno pull I have them only go to 6500 regardless. I know the risks it can happen any time with out notice really.
 

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