Ordering a Mishimoto radiator today. Who has one?

[Twisted2]

I've finally accepted that I need an aftermarket aluminum radiator. I'd always been reluctant, after hearing about them leaking, or just not improving cooling.

I'd appreciate hearing about your experiences with these radiators. Will it improve the cooling on my '96 Cobra? How long have yours lasted? (I'm ordering the stabilizer mounts as well). Thanks again.

 

[greg01svt]

Ive had a mishimoto aluminium radiators in both my 96gt and 01 cobra with coyote swap, cruzing temp dont notice alot but when you start beating on it holds temp lot better, both been in there for couple years now

Sent from my SM-S320VL using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[jman37]

How are Mishi's in Mustangs? I've always been curious how good they actually are. Over in the PSD world they're hated because their "quality" is sub par, they're 2x more than an OEM one and if you need help/warranty work they're a nightmare.

 

[Twisted2]

Ive had a mishimoto aluminium radiators in both my 96gt and 01 cobra with coyote swap, cruzing temp dont notice alot but when you start beating on it holds temp lot better, both been in there for couple years now

Sent from my SM-S320VL using the svtperformance.com mobile app

That's what I want to hear, Greg. I've always been fine with the average running temps, just cruising around. (I wouldn't even mind if it ran at 210-215 all the time). It's the spikes/fluctuations when getting on it, or going uphill, or at 80 on the freeway with A/C on, that freaked me out. It sounds like the radiator will equalize the temperatures a little better, which is great. It sucks to feel like you have to drive the car gently/slowly, to keep the temps down. Thanks for chiming in.

 

[Twisted2]

How are Mishi's in Mustangs? I've always been curious how good they actually are. Over in the PSD world they're hated because their "quality" is sub par, they're 2x more than an OEM one and if you need help/warranty work they're a nightmare.

Interesting. I'm curious what others have to say about the quality as well. Thanks for bringing that up.

 

[jman37]

I had one on my 6.0 and went through 2. After the 2nd one leaked on me I went with a different company aluminum radiator and it went strong. I wouldn't put one in my 6.7 mainly because of how hard they were to work with to warranty my first one when it's known their design isn't that great, that was why I was curious about it for the stangs.

 

[Twisted2]

Also, would you guys recommend a new stock fan, or a Mishimoto one? Thanks.

 

[Twisted2]

I had one on my 6.0 and went through 2. After the 2nd one leaked on me I went with a different company aluminum radiator and it went strong. I wouldn't put one in my 6.7 mainly because of how hard they were to work with to warranty my first one when it's known their design isn't that great, that was why I was curious about it for the stangs.

That's great info. Reports like that always make me second guess what I should do.

 

[shurur]

https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...-crossover-to-thermostat-housing-hose.911155/

Post #20 for good input on the OEM fan.
And a bit about radiators.

I do think the mishimoto radiators were a problem early on, but quality has gotten better.
They also seem to be the only folks who have the brace/frame that comes with them.

 

[Twisted2]

https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...-crossover-to-thermostat-housing-hose.911155/

Post #20 for good input on the OEM fan.
And a bit about radiators.

I do think the mishimoto radiators were a problem early on, but quality has gotten better.
They also seem to be the only folks who have the brace/frame that comes with them.

I'd like to think so. It seems crazy to me that an upgraded radiator wouldn't last at least 10 years--particularly since my OEM one lasted 20. Otherwise it seems like a downgrade. Anyhow, thanks for the link and insight.

 

[shurur]

I'd like to think so. It seems crazy to me that an upgraded radiator wouldn't last at least 10 years--particularly since my OEM one lasted 20. Otherwise it seems like a downgrade. Anyhow, thanks for the link and insight.

I had a champion 3 core crack at the corners.
The three core is so thick that it needs to be sprung to get it to fit, or have the top mounts extend out a bit.

The mishimoto brace has the mount post on it and shifts the thicker radiator back a bit; so it isn't sprung, but floating in the rubber mounts.

Others have had AL radiators from other mfgs crack at the corners as well.

The mishimoto brace/bracket is key imo.

I think Champion is mfg the mishimoto now....

 

[9397SVTs]

I replaced a leaking Fluidyne with a Mishimoto about 9 years ago. I have not had a single problem and it is still in the car.

I am using the OE fan. My car is turbocharged and has air conditioning. I also have a Meziere electric water pump. I've never had a problem with Temps getting too high. In fact, when it's cold, for Phoenix, it takes awhile for temps to get up to operating temperature.

 

[Twisted2]

That's all great info. I appreciate you guys taking the time to share. I've been holding off on pulling the trigger today, just to hear some of your replies. 9397SVTs, it's great to hear that you've had yours for 9 years. I'll probably place my order tomorrow. Sounds like the Mishimoto is my best bet.

 

[shurur]

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/radiator-help-needed.1182729/

Again most AL radiators put their mount posts on the center of the "thickness," no matter how thick they are.
The mishimoto brace fixes that and latest radiator quality is good.

I think other thicker radiators would work and not crack should the top mounts be extended a bit so as not the force pull the radiator in and let it angle out a bit at the top. That way the radiator would be floating freely and not flexed along the height.

 

[Twisted2]

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/radiator-help-needed.1182729/

Again most AL radiators put their mount posts on the center of the "thickness," no matter how thick they are.
The mishimoto brace fixes that and latest radiator quality is good.

I think other thicker radiators would work and not crack should the top mounts be extended a bit so as not the force pull the radiator in and let it angle out a bit at the top. That way the radiator would be floating freely and not flexed along the height.

That's good info. I'm reading through the thread you linked. I placed the order last night, with American Muscle. Kind of bummed that the only shipping offered takes 3 to 10 days--and that they emailed me this morning saying they're behind on shipping. Maybe I'll have it for NEXT summer. Haha. Anyhow, thanks again, everyone.

 

[Twisted2]

By the way, does anyone know how thick the 96 stock radiator was? I let my mechanic install my stock replacement radiator a few years ago (can't remember why), and just noticed that it's only 1" thick. Is that the same as stock, or thinner?

 

[shurur]

By the way, does anyone know how thick the 96 stock radiator was? I let my mechanic install my stock replacement radiator a few years ago (can't remember why), and just noticed that it's only 1" thick. Is that the same as stock, or thinner?

I believe that the OEM as a copper/brass radiator like my 99 was.
The one you have now is probably plastic sides and AL; so 1" is right for that one. I have the same in mine now.


But I am not sure what the thickness of the OEM was...but it was probably the same thickness as the plastic sides are on your current radiator.

Cooling
Jrgoffin's site indicates possibly 1.5"

 

[Twisted2]

I believe that the OEM as a copper/brass radiator like my 99 was.
The one you have now is probably plastic sides and AL; so 1" is right for that one. I have the same in mine now.


But I am not sure what the thickness of the OEM was...but it was probably the same thickness as the plastic sides are on your current radiator.

Cooling
Jrgoffin's site indicates possibly 1.5"

Wow. That's good to know, although annoying to hear. That could mean that, essentially, my mechanic sold me a lower capacity radiator, and then a couple years later, rebuilt my top end after I blew a head gasket--to the tune of $3600. I mean, I doubt he did it intentionally, but still. I don't use him anymore anyway, for a myriad of reasons. Anyhow I'll be glad to get a proper radiator in this thing. Thanks again for chiming in.