Opinions on what intake manifold to stick with or change

[cbr repsol]

So after just acquiring my new to me 97 rio red cobra. I've got pretty much all the bugs worked out. The thing I do in fact love about the car is the intake manifold. It's very unique and imo look nicer than the 99 to 01 cobra manifold.
My thing is since I sold my 04 cobra and I had 550whp through a whipple 2.3 I want way more power out of this car. So decisions I've come up with is 03 cobra swap..there for loosing my intake that I kinda really like. Adding a turbo kit or a centrifugal super charger. I realize I would have to swap in some c heads for the whole 03 swap..but if I did I would most likely run a 2.9 or a 3.4 blower. I realize the motor won't handle the power with the weak pistons and rods so I will be building the motor up..also realize trans and rear..just wanna stay on topic of what power adder type combo should I approach? And should I not even care about the factory manifold??
I plan on at least 7 to 1000 wheel hp. I planed on building a beast before I sold my 04 (divorce f'ed that up) had a built billet boss 5.3 stroker.

My plans have changed and I really wanna road course the car...1000 hp will probably be way to much but depending on combo I could have a few different tunes done so swapping a belt or changing the boost if turbocharged would be no big deal to lower the power level for trac.
If I decide to drag race I could bring it right back up.

Your thoughts are welcome

 

[GRUSE]

The C head swap adapter plate was created by a member here who goes under the name USMC53CHIEF.C heads are superior to the B head and can be found on 99 and up continentals cheep at the junk yard or U pull it yards. The adapter is handy it lets you use the throttle and cruse control cables

 

[cbr repsol]

Thank you for letting me know.
Was looking for more options on the stock 97 intake manifold to keep or not?

 

[GRUSE]

Keep it.It looks way cooler than the 99 up and has more potential in the higher rpm range according to NA SVT the guru of our engines.

 

[cbr repsol]

Not much action about this.
Maybe these cars are to old..not many care anymore??

 

[1998SVTCOBRA]

Deciding which route you want to go might help get some more targeted feedback.

I would personally just keep your B heads (and the current intake), build the bottom end, and put on a centri or turbo(s).

From what it sounds like, turbos might fit what you want best. Turn boost up or down depending if you're on the strip, street, or a road course. Also be back to power levels your used to, and beyond. Changing out pullies all the time would be a PITA in my opinion.

 

[cbr repsol]

Well since I'm a mechanic..I could do the whole terminator swap. Would have tons of blower options..I was just thinking the upper manifold was unique to the car and maybe just keep it?
I'm more focused on road tracking the car and driving it occasionally to work for fun.
We have 3 other cars so I can pretty much do anything I want to this cobra. That's why I'm gonna put a full cage in the car without any worries that the kids won't fit in the back.
Plain and simple they are not ever gonna ride in it unless I take one to the store or something and they ride shotgun.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

sell off all the old modular shit, and buy a used Coyote engine. Swap it.. run N/A on the road coarse. When you get good at driving around that throw a centri blower on it and E85.. Plenty of power. You will not able to use 700+rwhp on a road coarse with a mustang that isn't a tube chassis lol. Simply not going to happen. The sweet spot is 500-650 depending on what track you're at..

 

[cbr repsol]

So a fully caged car wouldn't be good?
I'm not trying to beat everyone , I just wanna have fun .
That's all..and still be able to do 1/4 mile if I wanted to. That's why I want so much power..plus I had 650 in my 04 so I miss the power..lol

 

[cbr repsol]

Another problem is I'm on a budget. So I wouldn't be able to afford a coyote swap.
I do so many other cars on my days off I most likely wouldn't even have time . So I'm kinda like building as I go.

 

[1998SVTCOBRA]

sell off all the old modular shit, and buy a used Coyote engine. Swap it.. run N/A on the road coarse. When you get good at driving around that throw a centri blower on it and E85.. Plenty of power. You will not able to use 700+rwhp on a road coarse with a mustang that isn't a tube chassis lol. Simply not going to happen. The sweet spot is 500-650 depending on what track you're at..

I like this answer. If you are comfortable with a swap this sounds like the best route.

 

[cbr repsol]

I could do the swap..but I would rather spend the money on a forged stroker rotating assembly and ported heads.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

You're going to be 8k+ deep in that build. You can buy a used coyote engine that can hold 700rwhp and is a much better platform for 4k if that. I literally just did this build bro. And I'm about 8k deep just in the top end with ported heads and cams. You want to do it on a budget, coyote swap.. Easiest way to make power..

 

[cbr repsol]

What about a/c?
My current a/c works like a charm.
Really wanna keep it.

 

[Nightmare302]

Power by the hour accessory drive keeps you current accessories. Bolt on yote's put down great power.

 

[98 N/A 4V]

I guess I'm on the other side of fence. I built my 5.4 for 6k. Cams, rods, pistons, etc. Granted my heads are not ported but I was putting a blower on it and 600-700 was the goal. I got my parts pretty cheap now that the mod motor is old news.

-Mark

 

[Nightmare302]

You can build a mod motor for fairly cheap, but up until ~1krwhp the yote is much cheaper to mod and much faster. Either one works and you can do the work yourself you will save some coin. A good budget 4.6 is yote rods, off the shelf wiseco pistons stock crank, cams, valve job heads short runner and long tubes. However, that still makes about as much power as a stock truck yote motor.

My next car will be an NA yote swap into an SN95.

 

[cbr repsol]

Do all you mentioned above but with 20 to 25 psi then we're talking.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

Hitting a modular with 20-25psi and keeping it reliable and cheap all don't mix lol. It's not as simple as rods, pistons, head stuff. There is SOOOO much shit that goes into it. I'm literally doing this build right now.
Rods, pistons, head porting, machining, cams, springs, retainers, valves, seats, seals, ARP EVERYTHING, timing equipment, chains, guides, cam equipment, more ARP everything. Then you chance that on a POS stock ECU lol.

Then we can get into the power adder of choice, fuel system, transmission, clutch, suspension.

sell current car and buy already built car and save tens of thousands

 

[cobralvr01]

Idk why people would suggest a turbo setup to someone who's looking to have a road course car. You want immediate torque, or at least not have to worry about being surprised when youf turbo spools. Do the terminator swap. Roots style will give you that predictable torque curve coming out of a turn instead of a blast of power causing you to spin out. Unless if you have awd, turbo setup and road course racing is a poor combination.