what r u opinions about the QA1 kmembers? i wanna hear them.
marek
marek
opinions about the QA1 tubular kmembers...
- Thread starter Mach0ne351
- Start date
It's ok. But if i had to do it again i think i would buy a MM unit. But for the price you cant beat it. The instructions where not the best. The only reall bad thing i have come across was i had to drill some elongated(sp?) holes to fit my poly motor mounts.
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I would like to hear this also.
Do you have to relocate your oil filter w/ this kit?
Also does it make the ride better? Is it louder (squeky) b/c of the polyurethane mounts etc..?
Do you have to relocate your oil filter w/ this kit?
Also does it make the ride better? Is it louder (squeky) b/c of the polyurethane mounts etc..?
cobraracer46
Banned
QA1 K members along with D&D, AJE, UPR and race craft are about as solid as a fold up lawn chair. Simply put, those lightweight drag race K members are shit and any mustang enthusiast, especially a convertible owner, should think twice before wasting money on any of them. By the way, Steeda sells the piece of shit QA1 unit and states the following about the QA1 K member: " for drag racing purposes only" Gee, I wounder why that is?
+1SanDiego01Snake said:
Very soon to be getting a complete Griggs GR-40 chassis and suspension kit installed. The Griggs tubular K-member is absolutely one of the main components of the Griggs front suspension aspect of that GR-40 system. A very stout piece with excellent workmanship.
The Griggs installer I talked with had 23 years experience and he virtually guaranteed me that after the complete GR-40 installation, with a solid 8.8 rear end installed (which I am getting done along with thru-the-floor full length subframe connectors), my Cobra car will ride and handle better, whether straight line racing or road racing, than the current beefed up IRS that I just recently finished--as per postban's "Level 5 or the Red Pill" thread but instead of installing Level 5 halfshafts, I went with Level 2's.
Looking forward to this GR-40 chassis and suspension package being installed, along with the solid axle and thru-the-floor full length subframe connectors. If my car handles as well as the Griggs GR-40 test car they drove me around in with the same complete GR-40 package/kit, I will end up being like a kid with both hands in a full candy jar. ;-):thumbsup:
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ok since QA1s are crap apparantly, how about the PA Racing one? i know there is a regular one and one with extra support and such. it just seem sthat the others are way expensive
cobraracer46 said:
do you have any proof of this. Or are you just spouting out your ass lke you usually do. If they are crap Im sure there have been some posts about quality controll, breaking, warping etc...
Find something saying those things and I will agree.
i always lean towards Griggs, but i wanted to hear opinions about the QA1's....MM units are too heavy, and youll need to buy their $300 oil filter relocation kit for it (about $1000 total then).
marek
marek
what is the advantage to getting a new k member? I cobra is all stock suspension so far.
SanDiego01Snake said:
very true...but not $1000 compared to $700 (griggs unit), and it's a TON lighter.
droptopsnake01 said:
No, nothing needs to be reloacated. Although, if you use you stock control arms (which i dont not recomend, even though they say you can). They dont mention how heavy grinding to the control arm around the bushings is required. I will be going coil-over soon. But if you really have to you can use the stock arms so you can retain the springs.
NOTE:By using the stock control arms the front end will sit a lot lower then it should because it puts the arms out slitly father the stock. I doubt i'm the only person that has experienced this. I have Ford C spring in the front with MM Poly isolators and i can barley stick two fingers between the tire and fender.
The Poly Engine mouts where just something i did when i replaced the k-memeber to stiffen the engine up and my stock mounts where shot. Their is nothing but benifits from them. No side effects like noise or anything.
The one thing i love about any tubular k-memebr is how much easier it is to work on the bottom of the engine. Its more then a night and day difference. I would buy one just for the benifit of the added accessability.
I think it rides just like stock. But i cant give a real comarisson as i did a swap from a v6 at the same time. So i went from a 4x4 ride with VERY soft srpings to down in the weeds, speed bumping scraping with VERY little travel. I kinda contradicted myself, but it feels how i think it would given the changes.
this kit comes w/ coil overs I though for the $699.
cobraracer46
Banned
droptopsnake01 said:
Well f u c k you too.:dw:
Oh, To answer your question, My comments about shitty and weak
k members can be proven simply by looking at them because when you look at the K members I described as shit, you can clearly see a big design flaw: No triangulation of construction. On the other hand, The K member of one Company that is cleaning up house in American iron road racing is a very strong and fully triangulated.
to kind of back up cobraracer, i have heard that QA1 arent the best for a DD car, but for drag racing applications they work well.
SanDiego01Snake said:
Yeah, it's a QA1. I talked to them about it and they said if their lower control arms are used the tires will be pulled back into the fenders.
SanDiego01Snake said:
So i'm not the only one.
If you buy a coil-over setup i would only recommend MM. If you dead set on no oil relocation. Buy the QA1 or something similar with their control arms and used MM coil-overs. A oil reloaction would be a good idea. You could then upgrade you cooling system to with that one company(some will know who i'm talking about). The have a oil cooler delete which helps the coolant flow better. Just install a small oil cooler with the relocation and you have a nice setup now. I'm planning a relocation to put the filter right next to the pan facing down so oil doesnt get everywhere during changes and it will be easier to get to.
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