Thank you. I got the pump kit to replace the faulty pump. The kit includes the corrugated tubes, the filters (socks that go on the pump sump) the rubber seals for the flange. I think this is all I need. No need to buy the complete assembly...
Old fuel draining by jumping the fuel pymp
- Thread starter jacek
- Start date
Hope it works for you, if your existing sending unit is good and new pump screw holes line up and wire (plug)connections match, you should be ok. For me when needed replacement going with just the pump didnt work out so well and ended up going with complete unit (bosch) with the hat. hopefully yours will work well.
The connectors dont match but that is easy enough to correct with two spade connectors. Otherwise the pump fits fine. I'll give it a try.
OK new pump installed and the tank is back in. The moment of truth is approaching fast ;-) Couple more procedures- Since I blew the old fuel out do I need to prime the fuel lines and injector rails? Would the 3 second key ignition position pump activation suffice? I also need to build the oil pressure on the engine since it had its oil drained several years ago. I saw the WOT cranking works since the injectors are deactivated by the computer at WOT start (to clear excess gas from fouled plugs) Does that work?
I cold not find much information on the forums here and elsewhere- sorry
I cold not find much information on the forums here and elsewhere- sorry
Cranking at WOT will prevent the injectors from firing. I have needed to do this on occasion with my '01 if it stalls after a cold start. Acts like it is flooded.
Turning over on the starter doesn’t build adequate oil pressure to lubricate the top end. There are instructions to build a primer with a garden sprayer and few other parts at rhe improvement store. Remember that NPT is tapered so do NOT over tighten it.
Probably going to need a few key forward cycles to refill the lines and build pressure
Probably going to need a few key forward cycles to refill the lines and build pressure
thats where I have the sender for my aeroforce gauge as well but again - do NOT over tighten! You'll crack the housing and it'll suck. I did that almost 10 years ago and was hard enough finding a replacement back then.
Cautionary tale: after watching multiple youtubers replace the fuel pump piece in the assembly i ordered one for $11 from rockauto and dropped the tank, removed the assembly. First thing i found was the corrugated internal fuel tube had a hole in it that caused pressure loss. I found and ordered it. When the pump came it had non stock connectors so i modified the wiring to fit. The fit in the housing was wrong so I shaved the housing. So far so good- pump went back in. Tank back in and started the car.
The cautionary tale starts now btw After about 10 min i lost the fuel pressure. Still could hear the pump run. I tracked it down to the pump running but not pumping. Out with the tank again. Out with the pump assembly. Turns out the the other corrugated line i could not find so did not replace got completely schredded. So I fixed it with clear fuel line. To avoid collapsing on a sharp kink it made i even stuck a spring inside to keep it open. Put back together and tested. Fuel line was now fine but the pump was losing pressure through fitment into the housing. It turns out the rubber seal in the housing was torn. I finally gave up and ordered the whole assembly. I found a quality one on Amazon of all places for $65. The rockauto assemblies prices were much higher for some reason.
The morał of the tale is: on older high mileage cars don't skimp on hardware that requires a lot of labor to install. Also shop around and you can save a big chunk between local parts store, rockauto, amazon and ebay. Thank you for enduring through my venting
The cautionary tale starts now btw After about 10 min i lost the fuel pressure. Still could hear the pump run. I tracked it down to the pump running but not pumping. Out with the tank again. Out with the pump assembly. Turns out the the other corrugated line i could not find so did not replace got completely schredded. So I fixed it with clear fuel line. To avoid collapsing on a sharp kink it made i even stuck a spring inside to keep it open. Put back together and tested. Fuel line was now fine but the pump was losing pressure through fitment into the housing. It turns out the rubber seal in the housing was torn. I finally gave up and ordered the whole assembly. I found a quality one on Amazon of all places for $65. The rockauto assemblies prices were much higher for some reason.
The morał of the tale is: on older high mileage cars don't skimp on hardware that requires a lot of labor to install. Also shop around and you can save a big chunk between local parts store, rockauto, amazon and ebay. Thank you for enduring through my venting
Attachments
That was a good call- I should have listened ;-( Unfortunately the rubber seal that the pump nozzle fits in was torn so the pressure was leaking through the fitting and I was not getting the pressure in the fuel rails. That rubber seal is not available separately AFAIK . I found a great deal on a new complete pump assembly with a very good reviews on amazon. I put it in and now I can forget about it - works great and the car starts fine. What I was trying to convey is that on labor intensive components (the pump replacement requires dropping the tank) with all the hidden parts prone to aging and breaking that render the whole assembly useless (like the small rubber seal here) it is not worth it trying to save few bucks (about 40 in this case) I value my time having to drop the tank the second time, my aggravation - a lot more than $40 worth. that's all I'm sayin... please learn from my mistake like I DIDN'T from Fireball
Users who are viewing this thread
