Is the oil pump gear something that can be upgraded at a shop by dropping the pan ?
Or is this a more complicated upgrade ?
Or is this a more complicated upgrade ?
Oil Pump Gear
- Thread starter Jam421
- Start date
Pretty sure the front cover has to come off.
Front timing cover has to come off, and in order to remove that, the alternator and the oil cooler have to be removed too. If you have headers, there's a good chance the driver side header will need to be removed. My ARH header had to come off to remove the cooler line that was bolted to the oil cooler adapter. Of course the cam covers need to be removed and the driver's side is a bit of a challenge to remove because of the brake booster. To even get to the oil pump, the primary chains need to be removed. It's not a simple project.
Here's a photo of my old engine to illustrate why removing the pan won't get this job done. That's the oil pump behind the crankshaft timing gear. You'll notice the attachment point to the pickup in the pan. I'm guessing you figured the pan was where the oil pump is located. This also illustrates why the pump can't be primed unless you inject oil in the passages upstream of the pump.
I paid $1400 to upgrade the oil pump gear and crank gear to billet pieces on my 2013. Not cheap but good insurance I’m told.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wow...I had know idea. Thanks fellas....for the detailed explanation & the estimate. Streetpwer....were you experiencing any signs or fluctuations in pressure or did you do it as an upgrade. All the stuff we do for power mods...and I'm thinking the way I lay into it sometimes...it might be wise money during our off season in NY to prevent something way more costly.
Perhaps it's time to ask around a few shops.
Perhaps it's time to ask around a few shops.
It's wise if you race the car, especially if you use a two step.
You won't have any signs that your OPGs are going to break....they're either intact or they're not, much like a connecting rod. If you shatter one, you'll quickly know it. Unfortunately, it's oftentimes too late and you've already damaged other engine components.
No issues whatsoever just strongly advised as a precautionary measure by my shop. It was a tough $1400 to come off of but I fee better now knowing it’s done especially as I’m about to pulley down further, remove cats, and tune on E85.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I didn't have to remove my oil cooler, but I did have to loosen the whole thing.
The cam cover was the biggest pain, afterward i was told to find a way to slide the engine sideways.
You need to remove the k member to pull the oil pump. Get the engine support/cross member thing from maximum motorsports to help with this. It is possible to change the oil pump gears without removing the pan, but I REALLY don't recommend it. Huge pain.
Also, since your right there, get a billet crank sprocket and at least shave off the first couple teeth of the primary chain tensioner ratchet (no cost, and I heard after I was done that when the chain is jerking at rev limiter/2 step it can ratchet out beyond healthy limits for the chain. It will still tension, just not lock at higher tensions).
The cam cover was the biggest pain, afterward i was told to find a way to slide the engine sideways.
You need to remove the k member to pull the oil pump. Get the engine support/cross member thing from maximum motorsports to help with this. It is possible to change the oil pump gears without removing the pan, but I REALLY don't recommend it. Huge pain.
Also, since your right there, get a billet crank sprocket and at least shave off the first couple teeth of the primary chain tensioner ratchet (no cost, and I heard after I was done that when the chain is jerking at rev limiter/2 step it can ratchet out beyond healthy limits for the chain. It will still tension, just not lock at higher tensions).
Last edited:
I spoke to my shop who enthusiastically suggested I do the OPG & Crank Sprocket but......wait for it..........advised that labor would be FREE if I upgraded CAMS in the meantime . Wait ! That wasn't on the menu lol !
Here I was considering $1500 which quickly escalated to $4000+.
I'm not exactly sure if it's boost (mine is low at 16.5) ....HP or RPM or all that increases failure rate but I have the winter to figure it all out. Although I don't track the car my concern was occasional weekend power shifting around 6500rpm. Datalogs showed 7200-7500rpm in between gears but FRPP & Lund advised that's only for an instant/no load and would not hurt anything.
I do respect the advice & knowledge on this forum & will start a fund for this upgrade if just for peace of mind. Although I LOVE the sound ...
No cams though
->) !
Here I was considering $1500 which quickly escalated to $4000+.
I'm not exactly sure if it's boost (mine is low at 16.5) ....HP or RPM or all that increases failure rate but I have the winter to figure it all out. Although I don't track the car my concern was occasional weekend power shifting around 6500rpm. Datalogs showed 7200-7500rpm in between gears but FRPP & Lund advised that's only for an instant/no load and would not hurt anything.
I do respect the advice & knowledge on this forum & will start a fund for this upgrade if just for peace of mind. Although I LOVE the sound ...
No cams though
->) !Users who are viewing this thread
