Oil Pan/Plug stripped - Dyno tomorrow :-(

[StangSupremacy]

After a month of trying to schedule a retune (tomorrow), I decided to change out the oil to get a fresh set for the dyno tune. At the same time, I was going to install a drain valve so that I never have to remove/reinstall the drain plug.

Anyways, when I was backing the bolt out, I noticed a VERY slight resistance so I stopped and threaded the bolt back in. On the way back out and after ~ 1-2 full turns, the bolt just kept free spinning. It was enough so only drops are coming out of the bolt, and it only drips if I am spinning it. So I know that its either the bolt that stripped (hopefully) or the pan. I tried to push the plug as I re-tighten, but it wouldn’t catch. It was late at night and I was so angry since I’ve been having so many issues with the car lately, so I decided to call it a night and I will work on it again tonight.

After doing a lot of research, I found people were using Vice-grips to lock into the bolt, pull, and at the same time try to catch the threads to come out. I am trying to get the bolt out without screwing up the threads in the pan. Since I will be using the drain valve going forward , I am just concerned with getting it to seal nice and tight one more time. If the threads on the pan are slightly messed up, do you think a helli coil would work good enough to seal the valve into place ? Has this happened to anyone before? What would you recommend to help pull the bolt and also to re-thread? Thanks for the input guys.

 

[fullboogie]

If I were in your position, I'd get that bolt out of there by whatever means and then have someone weld a bung/nut onto the pan so you can install a new bolt/valve. I had this happen on a Fox Mustang years ago and that's how I got it fixed without dropping the pan.

 

[StangSupremacy]

I am going to try the pull out method we read over on S197Forum and hope the bolt comes out without too many problems. If the pan is not stripped, I will just install the drain valve and get this beast dyno'd! As far as welding a nut onto the pan, do you think most automotive shops would be able to do that? I dont have a friend that welds. Since you are in Houston, what shop did you use?

 

[CPRsm]

Call around to a few shops and see if they have a drain repair. A special drill bit, tap and new plug is all you should need. It's common enough they make a complete repair kit which you can buy at snap on, mac, etc.

 

[fullboogie]

I am going to try the pull out method we read over on S197Forum and hope the bolt comes out without too many problems. If the pan is not stripped, I will just install the drain valve and get this beast dyno'd! As far as welding a nut onto the pan, do you think most automotive shops would be able to do that? I dont have a friend that welds. Since you are in Houston, what shop did you use?

Man, if I still had my MIG welder I'd come over there tonight. Back in the day, I brought my car to a muffler shop to have 'em weld the nut on the pan. It took all of 15 minutes. We pushed it into the parking lot, filled it with oil and I was on my way.

Found some links for you, but they won't help you tonight:

http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html

http://www.cgenterprises.com/drain_plugs_oversize_repair.htm

 

[evasive]

You can always cut threads for a larger drain plug too.

 

[PistolWhip]

In a real pinch where you don't have time to cut new threads or can't get it fixed the right way right away, they sell rubber slip in plugs that squeeze up against the inside and outside of the plug hole when you tighten them. It's just a rubber insert with brass or steel washers on either end and bolt going through it so that when you tighten the bolt, it pulls the washers tight and squeezes the rubber insert. It's hard to explain, but if you check in the Help section of Pep-Boys or Auto Zone you should be able to find it. You could use that until your next oil change, which will give you some time to find the right fix.

 

[StangSupremacy]

Sorry for the update delay guys! I tried the prying/pulling method with a couple of friends, we could not get the bolt out all the way without some serious cross-threading. Then, my mentor/friend Steve came over to save the day. He got the bolt out in less than 5 minutes!!!!! He said his 40 years of working on cars gave him all the experience to be able to "feel" the bolt lol, sounds like the force is strong with him! The bolt was 2/3 completely smooth on the bolt threads, but the pan was intact. I ended up missing the dyno appointment, but i am just happy the pan is not stripped and the new drain valve is on. With the new drain valve , i wont ever have to worry about pulling that plug out again. Thanks everyone for the advice and help!