Oil in the manifold or intake? Look at this.

Silver03Termi

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Have you ever had your blower off and noticed that there is oil in your manifold? Or had your intake tube off and seen oil in the intake tract and throttle body? I think I may have found something to help with that.

The problem seems to be with the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system. Below is a diagram of how that system works. Air comes in the intake, into the passenger valve cover, through the crank case, out of the driver side valve cover, and into the back of the blower to be burnt. IN MY OPINION, the intake tract/ back of the blower route, provides the best means of ventilation for the crank case, so simply venting both sides isnt viable. Some guys like to run a breather on the passenger side, if you look at the drawing, you can see that this would end up with unmetered air entering the back of the blower. Thats not good. Like I said, it is my opinion, that the factory path be retained.

http://img857.imageshack.us/i/pcv.gif/

Lets talk about the effects of puddling oil. It gums up the rotors and intercooler, and effectively reduces the octane of fuel. This leads to lost power and detonation.

The logical solution is to run a catch can between the blower and drivers side valve cover. That will solve some of the problem. Not all of it. Remember the oil in the intake tract and throttle body? There is something else going on. Others have mentioned this before.

The problem is the check valve on the drivers side valve cover. They are suppose to only flow one way. They are crap though. Go pull yours off, and try to blow through it both ways. You shouldnt be able to, you probably can though. When that check valve fails and you go into boost, you reverse the flow of the PCV system and the oily air ends up flowing out of the passenger side valve cover and into the intake tract. Once the oil hits the intake tract, and whatever else, it puddles.

Now that we understand the problem, we can solve it. Part of the solution is to use a catch can. The other part of the solution is to use a quality check valve. This is where my journey began...WEEKS AGO.

A few guys are running an Andair Check Valve. ANDAIR CHECK VALVE from Aircraft SpruceThis is a quality piece. The important part of this check valve is the opening or "cracking" pressure. The Andair, opens at less than 1psi (2 in hg, vacuum) and will block up to 50psi. Look at the price though. 67$ + tax.

I knew there was a better solution. I have found some check valves with a 1psi cracking pressure, 1/4" NPT male fittings (like the Andair valve), and capable of blocking well over 300psi. These numbers are from the manufacturer. They have told me that this check valve is P E R F E C T for this application. Price? $25 + shipping. Who wants one?

imag0497d.jpg
 
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My2003Mach1

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Sounds good.. However.... IMHO it make better sense to just use a catch can...

I did on my 2003 Mach 1 with -10AN braided line and fittings to a Jaz products vented catch can. I re-routing/plumbing from both cam covers to a vented catch can in the fender well or some place out of the way but accessible.

I for one do not want any check valves or and have ANY recirculated air or venting back to any part of my engine... nor do I want to chance a "check valve"....

So the only thing going into my intake is Methanol and Air...

OP I'm not slamming your post ... Just wanted to give you some feedback ....


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Silver03Termi

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some guys prefer that method. the only problem with that is your'e relying on heat alone to move the air, and not the flow that the intake tract provides.
 

03snakeminated

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Good thread, i've been doing some HW myself, going through the forums to see what's the best approach. Also read about a guy (DAN) on MF that swears by the oem oil filter, he was told to try it by a ford engineer, he was told that the dual baffle sys in the oem unit helps with oil zipping through the intake tube, here's the thread oil in my plenum wtf?
it doesn't make much sense to me but for 8-10 bucks for the oem filter, its worth the shot (that's what i just did today along with an oil change) i'll report back and if need be move to the next "more expensive" thing, aka DIY oil separator or O.P's recommendation
 

Silver03Termi

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Good thread, i've been doing some HW myself, going through the forums to see what's the best approach. Also read about a guy (DAN) on MF that swears by the oem oil filter, he was told to try it by a ford engineer, he was told that the dual baffle sys in the oem unit helps with oil zipping through the intake tube, here's the thread oil in my plenum wtf?
it doesn't make much sense to me but for 8-10 bucks for the oem filter, its worth the shot (that's what i just did today along with an oil change) i'll report back and if need be move to the next "more expensive" thing, aka DIY oil separator or O.P's recommendation

i recommend a DIY oil seperator AND a check valve.
 

Silver03Termi

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you have said check valves for $25? OR it needs to be ordered from a website? i heard the toyota turbo supra's check valves can replace the stockers and are wayyy better :shrug:

Have them in my garage. :beer: Im not sure about the supra ones. I know I looked for a really long time. This was the best I could find. The only other one I can find with close to the same specs is the Andair piece. Let me know if you want one.
 

Silver03Termi

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I wish we could get an engineer to comment on this. I started my car up today and messed around with this. The valves work and only let air flow from the passenger side to the drivers side. What I don't get is the OEM design vs reality. The reality is that both valve covers expel air at idle. Under what conditions does air flow in the designed manner?
 

ratfinkron

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I know it's a different engine but same principle. I have been having an issue with mine filling up the catch can with oil so I capped the intake and put a breather on top of the catch can then had it pushing oil out of the breather on the passenger side breather so I took a rag folded it and zip tied to the breather and seems to be working for now. My setup is Trickflow top end kit on fresh stock bottom end 302 with a P1SC on 12 lbs boost 509rwhp. Also and I know this is part of my problem is no baffles in my valve covers but I am going to buy some tall fabricated aluminum valve covers with baffles soon. I bought a pcv from a turbo Supra but cant find a rubber grommet to fit it.
 
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2001Snake

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This is interesting, I took my whipple off and it looked like bp had been in my intake. I may try this.

Thanks op
Jay
 

98 N/A 4V

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I think your first diagram might be wrong. Incoming air goes into the air filter up through the TB/intake then into the cylinder. The blowby then goes into the crank case then out the pcv and it gets re-routed into the intake stream. Your diagram has is going into the pcv.

The factory pieces are one way check valves. I tried to hit mine with my air comprssion with 20psi and it held it.
 

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