Normal STFT high LTFT

01yellercobra

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Just wanted to say hotcobra03 called it in post 3.

I usually pull the blower and lower intake together. It's just easier IMO. If the EGR is still in place loosening the pipe at the exhaust manifold will give you some play to work with. I usually lift by the fuel rails. If you're by yourself you can attach the hoist to them. If you can get a buddy to help the two of you won't have a problem lifting it. I throw a towel over the crossover in case someone needs to set the unit down to re-adjust.
 

efnfast

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Thanks - sounds like I'll pull it in 1 piece then ... doesn't seem as bad as I was thinking it would be. I'm sure I could benefit from an intercooler cleaning, but I don't beat on the car hard (I'm still on the original clutch, haha) so it probably isn't worth it opening up that can of worms.
 

Bullitt1448

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I used an engine hoist to put my Whipple on, actually very easy, less chance of damaging the paint trying wrestle the blower and manifold out of the car, lifting it is one thing but getting it out of the engine bay is another,
 

hotcobra03

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It's harder to pull as pieces .

That intercooler will get you .

As a unit it's not that bad,,
Hood will go straight up so you can stand on fender vs bending over ,

The nose has to be lifted on angle than slide it forward and up .

Remove EGR valve and all of the vacuum harness from car ,throttle body and elbow ,
 

efnfast

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While I have the manifold off I think I may as well re-o-ring the coolant pipes in the coolant supply/return manifold at the front of the intake.

What do you guys torque the coolant supply/return manifold mounting bolts to?

The service manual says 89 ft-lbs (which I'm pretty sure should be in-lbs) plus 90 degrees (why would those bolts be torque to yield??)
 

hotcobra03

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While I have the manifold off I think I may as well re-o-ring the coolant pipes in the coolant supply/return manifold at the front of the intake.

What do you guys torque the coolant supply/return manifold mounting bolts to?

The service manual says 89 ft-lbs (which I'm pretty sure should be in-lbs) plus 90 degrees (why would those bolts be torque to yield??)
For me. I just use tight,
But use tool proper for the size bolt/nut being tightened.

Say on this job

A 1/4 inch drive hand tool.

These bolts are tiny.

The lower intake and intercooler bolts I use 1/4 in drive and just hand tight ,than slight more push with pinky finger ..
 

efnfast

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Got the lower intake manifold/blower out of the car. It wasn't as heavy as I was expecting, just awkward lifting it out of the car by myself, but overall wasn't too bad for my first time doing it.

What really caught me up was the wiring harness clipped to the lower manifold - took me forever to unpop the plastic christmas tree pin to release it, grrrrr.

The lower manifold hose was completely torn open, about a foot long gash .... I'm surprised the car drove and idled as well as it did and that that wasn't enough to cause a massive boost leak.

I plugged the lower port (3/8'' npt) and will install an inline catch can between the blower and the valve cover ... I do not want to mess with that lower hose again.

I also took apart the intercooler mounting block to re-o-ring it ... I'm glad I did, those o-rings were basically squares, lol, bound to be a leak waiting to happen.
 

hotcobra03

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Got the lower intake manifold/blower out of the car. It wasn't as heavy as I was expecting, just awkward lifting it out of the car by myself, but overall wasn't too bad for my first time doing it.

What really caught me up was the wiring harness clipped to the lower manifold - took me forever to unpop the plastic christmas tree pin to release it, grrrrr.

The lower manifold hose was completely torn open, about a foot long gash .... I'm surprised the car drove and idled as well as it did and that that wasn't enough to cause a massive boost leak.

I plugged the lower port (3/8'' npt) and will install an inline catch can between the blower and the valve cover ... I do not want to mess with that lower hose again.

I also took apart the intercooler mounting block to re-o-ring it ... I'm glad I did, those o-rings were basically squares, lol, bound to be a leak waiting to happen.
Did you clean intercooler?
I also had cleaned the rotors when off and lubed the rear bearings .
The black coating on my rotors was flaking off .
Pulling them out to clean was easy
Also change the fluid in blower while off .

After reading some posts on here

I used mobile 1 in my blower
 

efnfast

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I didn't clean the intercooler - I poked my head around when the front manifold block was off and it's oil caked like all of them but not the end of the world to me since I don't drive hard - I just want to get my car back together since it's my daily .... maybe down the road now that I'm familiar with manifold removal.

I did give the blower some new oil a few weeks ago .... only 200k later than the recommended change interval, lol
 

hotcobra03

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I didn't clean the intercooler - I poked my head around when the front manifold block was off and it's oil caked like all of them but not the end of the world to me since I don't drive hard - I just want to get my car back together since it's my daily .... maybe down the road now that I'm familiar with manifold removal.

I did give the blower some new oil a few weeks ago .... only 200k later than the recommended change interval, lol
Oil on case isn't what needs cleaning.

That intercooler is an air filter also.

Water on inside ,and air blowing thru it.

It effects air flow ,

Our manual doesn't have anything on blower,,
Yet the 03 section for lightening has a blower breakdown and install instructions

Blower has been disturbed.

This cooler is 9 inches thick,
What you see is only oil dust .
Top of your intercooler will be caked oil which air has to be forced thru

All we can do is flush brake kleen thru holes to clean cooler

This has nothing to do with those o rings. That's the fluid side.

Air side is what is cleaned off
 

efnfast

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I probably should clean it out someday, but I have enough projects for this month so I settled on just fixing the current issue.

I got the car back together, runs great ... I guess it was running a bit sluggish with the gigantic hole in the intake manifold and after 2-3yrs I stopped noticing.

I ended up going to open breathers because I liked the look and got tired of all the pcv hose routing, hah (yes I'm aware of the heated argument between both sides).

I did some data logging of the fuel trims .... I originally had the car tuned at 5,000 miles .... but I think for having an engine/parts that have loosened up over 300,000 miles these are good readings (i.e., no need for a re-tune)

Idle - ST/LT both range 0.98 to 1.02 (whereas with blown out lower intake hose ST was 1.2 and LT was 1.25 and somehow no check engine light?)

Cruising/moderate acceleration (normal driving) - ST ranges from 0.9 to 1.1 average of 0.95; LT ranges from 0.98 to 1.1, average of 1.05 (so I think average of 0.95 ST + 1.05 LT = balanced fuel trim?)

Full throttle - ST immediately drops from 0.95 to around 0.8, then moves back up to 1.0; LT holds 1.0

FPDC - around 0.27 at idle, 0.33 when normally driving around, 0.42 under full throttle
 

efnfast

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I ended up getting rid of the open breathers and went back to the PCV with an inline JLT catch can (i.e., PCV valve -> catch can -> connection at back of blower).

I occasionally smelled fumes in the car and when I sniffed around the windshield area could definitely pick up a smell, so fumes were probably getting drawn in via the vents.

What I found interesting though is that my fuel trims changed with 2 open breathers vs revised PCV catch can setup.

With the 2 open breathers, my long-term trims averaged around 1.05, sometimes got as high as 1.12 and would sometimes have a 0.04 difference between the 2 banks.

With the revised PCV setup my long-term trims averaged 1.01, only got as high as 1.06 and were almost always perfectly even (sometimes a 0.01 difference for a split second)

All the forum posts I read suggested the only way fuel trims would be impacted would be if I ran a breather on the passenger side and the PCV setup on the driver side .... but that's clearly not the case because I could see the difference in the log file (same road, same RPMs, same driving style, same everything other than yes/no PCV system)
 

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