no more sound system problems!!!

badass98vert

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for the past 6 months i was listening to music in my car through 2 speakers for god knows what reason (thinking factory amps) and i had finally had enough so the other day i tore apart the entire thing and rewired everything. i decided to not use any of the factory 460 amps cause i was so fed up with em but was unsure of what to do to use all 8 speakers from my head unit. i pulled the speakers out and tested the resistance and the woofers tested at just over 6 ohms which is higher than i really wanted running it from the head unit. then i tested the tweeters and they were just over 2 ohms so what i ended up doing was wiring the tweeters and woofers in parallel and running them as a set from the head unit through the factory wiring harness that normally runs out of the factory tweeter amp in the dash. this gave the head unit an almost perfect 4 ohm load. i also rewired and cleanly installed the subs in my trunk and mounted everything down solid. i turned the high pass filter on the head unit on at 80hz so that all the inside speakers (especially the tweeters) dont get any bass. finished everything in about 3 hours and let me tell u, it sounds AMAZING!!! i dont know why i waited so long to do this. so just wanted to share my experience and hopefully this helps anyone that wants to bypass the factory amps.
 
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llDemonll

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since you seem really good with electronics, any idea why you get the "rpm noise" in the speakers? i read somewhere that it was a ground wire that was touching the frame or something and getting feedback from the vibrations there and xfering it to the speakers.

no idea, but insight appreciated =)
 

MouTine

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That ohm-info was a big help. Thank you!

Hey Badass98vert, one more question... What you think of this? New aftermarket head unit drives all four original tweeters and new aftermarket 4-ch amp drives all those four original woofers. Is this a good idea or what?
 
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9646stang

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Remove all that sound system crap and listen to the exhaust. It will make you fast to. J/K:thumbsup:
 

badass98vert

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That ohm-info was a big help. Thank you!

Hey Badass98vert, one more question... What you think of this? New aftermarket head unit drives all four original tweeters and new aftermarket 4-ch amp drives all those four original woofers. Is this a good idea or what?

no, that actually wouldnt be a good idea since the tweeters are only slightly over 2 ohms and it would be really bad on the head unit. aftermarket head units are made to run a 4 ohm load so that would possibly blow the internal amp.
 

jzepp

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I have my mach 460 amps bypassed from when i installed an aftermarket head unit. I have one problem. Every now and then i get really bad alternator whine.......it fades in and out. I figured out one day of being pissed and sticking my hand in and pulling on the wires, that when i move the wires a certain way, everything is fine. It seems to cut off my front tweeter from playing. I move some wires around and then i hear the front drivers tweeter playing and everything is ok again. What the heck is wrong, here?
 

98slowbra

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I would re ground that, I did a few mods to my radio also, the 460 system is gone but the system i have in there is pretty old now
pioneer 8200 deck
pioneer 7600 digital sound processer
JL 2 way 6" in the doors
JL 5 1/4 in front pods
Boston Pro tweeters in the Pods
2 12" kicker comp subs
5 farud The Cap
2-PPI 2300.2 amps
150 amp new alt.
140 amp curcuit braker
all custom fibeglass trunk
2 yellow flouresent light tubs in trunk lid hiddin
Compustar alarm

I know it is still old but it still works and sounds ok
 

po-po 5.0

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FYI: the static loading of a speaker doesn't tell the whole story. A tweeter with low impedance isn't going to fry your deck because it takes extremely little power to drive.

I actuall went through all of this mess on my superduty. I have 4 ohm 5x7s wired in parallel with a 2 ohm tweeter (bass blocker on tweeter only). In theory this would fry my amp, but the amp doesn't run any warmer now than it used to.
 
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