No Misfires - Finally

[SteveWK]

The short story is ... haha

Read these links for the long history on this problem and what I tried to solve the problem:

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/bad-rear-o2-sensors-misfire-code.1159876/#post-15912004

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/need-help.1166648/#post-16047599

The crank balancer bolt was loose. Seems like an obvious thing to check in hindsight, but you had to be there . The stock balancer is back on the car. I had an ATI +10% on it before. The loose bolt caused the balancer to scuff the crank trigger wheel. I didn't see it in person, but I do have pictures of the ATI balancer, see below.

Why did the bolt back out??? Seems odd to me. I have read of similar problems with aftermarket balancer installs. I can't remember the user's name exactly, but I think it was Lexus something. His post is what tipped me off on checking the balancer.

Steve

 

[SteveWK]

Also it is so good to drive my car again, completely stock albeit with 3.73 gears soon to be 4.10s.

 

[Chancey]

Also it is so good to drive my car again, completely stock albeit with 3.73 gears soon to be 4.10s.

Glad you figured it out. Man I hate running down the “mystery problems”!

 

[SteveWK]

I was about ready to put a brick on the accelerator and light it on fire while it cruised through a corn field like some sort of Nordic funeral.

 

[Chancey]

I was about ready to put a brick on the accelerator and light it on fire while it cruised through a corn field like some sort of Nordic funeral.

I have been there! Makes you hate life... Glad its solved.

 

[merkyworks]

You need to ditch using a bolt and get the Kinetik crank stud, this will stop this from happening again. There is a thread on the kit HERE.

 

[SteveWK]

merkyworks, I was thinking the exact same thing. Just need the time and money to do the install.

 

[Snoopy49]

Hopefully it didn't do any damage to the crank, its keyways or the woodruff keys.

 

[me32]

Possibly bolt not tq to spec? Or reused stock bolt that stretched

 

[SteveWK]

Hopefully it didn't do any damage to the crank, its keyways or the woodruff keys.

It didn't damage the crank or the keyways. I'm not sure what a woodruff key is. I wish I had been standing there while it was being replaced and took some pictures. I did see the ATI being installed though, and after looking through the workshop manual, I'm pretty sure the torquing procedure wasn't followed. The ATI was installed in 2014.

Possibly bolt not tq to spec? Or reused stock bolt that stretched

I'm pretty darn sure the proper torquing procedure wasn't followed. Ford wants me to bring it in after 1000 miles to check the bolt. I have the tools to do it myself, but I will just let them do it.

 

[SteveWK]

I found the post I was referring to in my OP, https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/misfire-when-car-is-warmed-up.1156425/#post-15858829 see post #10. Lexustech48 had the same problem I did.

 

[biminiLX]

Good to hear it’s fixed Steve. Glad you caught it early enough too, that could’ve been ugly.
-J

 

[me32]

Good to hear it’s fixed Steve. Glad you caught it early enough too, that could’ve been ugly.
-J

Real ugly

 

[SteveWK]

Good to hear it’s fixed Steve. Glad you caught it early enough too, that could’ve been ugly.
-J

Thanks. Hopefully it will stay fixed. The crank trigger wheel had some scuffing on it. I'm going to leave the catalytic converters on for a while before adding the h-pipe back on. This way the cat protection mode is enabled and misfires make the engine light flash. I will also check codes. Personally I think it will be fine, but just want to verify. If it passes the test, it will then be 4.10 time

 

[biminiLX]

Good plan. I’m adding an Nguage to watch data while on the street this season. Always a good security blanket
-J