The FIRST thing you should do whenever you have ANY electrical device on the car not working is go thru BOTH fuseboxes with a $2 test light from checker and check ALL circuits.. Brakelights would be hot all the time so the key doesn't have to be on, but I turn the key on anyway.. There are two metal spots on each fuse as you look at the top of them.. As long as both sides are the same (if the left and right light up, OR if neither light up) then the fuse is good.. If one side of the fuse tests different than the other, then the fuse is bad....Thats where I would start..
After that, you can go directly to the brakeswitch.. There are only two wires going to it.. One is green/red, the other is green/something.. The green/something will have constant power to it if the circuit is hot.. The green/red only gets power when the brake is depressed, so as long as green/something has power, you can test your switch for sure without going thru the hassle of replacing a perfectly good switch..
Exactly, hence the reason I don't go to fuses first.
It's not like the old days when you may have 1 thing on a fuse.
Now more than 1 thig is normally on a fuse so if the fuse blows more than brakelights won't work and the OP only mentioned brake lights.
I have however come across one time when only the brakelights didn't work and it turned out to be the multi function switch.
UPDATE, I had the same exact problem. No brake lights would work. Turn signals and hazards worked, lights on would also light up the rear but no brakes. I checked the 41 fuse (brake lamps) and that was good as well. Switch was good, wires were good, I was going nuts. I randomly checked my owners manual again and found another fuse # 33 (stop lamp switch/speed control deactivation switch) Checked that one and sure enough it was blown. Replaced it and everything was golden. Just wanted to give a heads up to anyone who has this issue in the future.