Nitrous Outlet plate kit (wet) vs JMS progressive (dry)

cmsnake

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Id like to run a 100 shot with either. Both kits seem to put down stellar numbers. The JMS seems to dyno a little more torque from what Ive researched. Someone may be able to prove otherwise. Something about a dry kit scares me on a coyote though.

Which would you prefer and why..

Any users of either kit feel welcome to add any input.
 

Torchy

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Well I know the guys at Nitrous Outlet and they have high quality stuff. My vote is for Nitrous Outlet.


PS Neal is a homo
 

CharlieR

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I have the 1st JMS kit. I'm very happy with it. I've been 6.8 in the 1/8 on the 100(.052 jet)@ (almost)stock weight(+ N2O Bottle,-Bogarts vs. Stock tires, 275/50/15's) and a 6.93 with 18x10 repo's with 265/40 mickeys. I thought the 6.8 was with the 265/40's but looking @ my logs last weekend it was on the bogarts. It comes complete with window switch, progressive and TPS switch built in. I don't(Personal opinion only) like fuel going through my intake so that's why the kit was made. Sprayed it 1st time on Feb 23,2011(on dyno, on button) had a button mishap(@ 2nd race) and had 3 controller updates(Last controller came Mar.,2012). What about "Dry" scares you?
 

KidMoney

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I like the dry kit. The good thing about the JMS kit is it comes complete and has a tune. The controller is even already set. Just plug and play.
 

cmsnake

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I have the 1st JMS kit. I'm very happy with it. I've been 6.8 in the 1/8 on the 100(.052 jet)@ (almost)stock weight(+ N2O Bottle,-Bogarts vs. Stock tires, 275/50/15's) and a 6.93 with 18x10 repo's with 265/40 mickeys. I thought the 6.8 was with the 265/40's but looking @ my logs last weekend it was on the bogarts. It comes complete with window switch, progressive and TPS switch built in. I don't(Personal opinion only) like fuel going through my intake so that's why the kit was made. Sprayed it 1st time on Feb 23,2011(on dyno, on button) had a button mishap(@ 2nd race) and had 3 controller updates(Last controller came Mar.,2012). What about "Dry" scares you?
Glad to see a satisfied customer with this kit. Any 1/4 mile numbers? I watched the youtube install video of this kit and they just run the nitrous line through the sound tube and thats it? Is this what you did? Just doesnt seem very strategic or secure laying in there. As far as the dry thing, something about fuel being sprayed with the shot makes me feel safer.

I like the dry kit. The good thing about the JMS kit is it comes complete and has a tune. The controller is even already set. Just plug and play.
I like this about the JMS kit. Nearly complete as is.
 
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Need4Speed03

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NX Plate wet kit here, mods and times in sig. I really like the Nitrous Outlet stuff and the JMS stuff, both would work very well when setup and used properly. Going with an experienced tuner is the biggest component in any setup. I don't think you can go wrong either way...I just personally prefer wet kits. Good luck!
 

cmsnake

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NX Plate wet kit here, mods and times in sig. I really like the Nitrous Outlet stuff and the JMS stuff, both would work very well when setup and used properly. Going with an experienced tuner is the biggest component in any setup. I don't think you can go wrong either way...I just personally prefer wet kits. Good luck!
Good times on the 150 hit. Any dyno numbers?
 

CharlieR

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Glad to see a satisfied customer with this kit. Any 1/4 mile numbers? I watched the youtube install video of this kit and they just run the nitrous line through the sound tube and thats it? Is this what you did? Just doesnt seem very strategic or secure laying in there. As far as the dry thing, something about fuel being sprayed with the shot makes me feel safer.


I like this about the JMS kit. Nearly complete as is.
Probably my car you watched, It just kinda ended up there. It moves in there a little bit I'm sure but it was easier than using tie wraps and anchoring it and then sealing a new hole in the intake tube. I've seen one kit that had a nozzel from a wet kit with the fuel side capped off and spraying through that. I'm not a flow engineer so can't tell ya if it makes any difference, but it's at 850-1100psi going into an airstream toward the TB It'll get there. :)

Best 1/4 time was a 10.99@127 had a crappy 60' and an 1/8 of 7.19@101(Not @ home so logs aren't with me so time is by memory). Had to set progressive @ 30-40% to get it to leave(also had it spray through shifts, not my usual setting). And this reminds me of the only thing I don't like about it(but haven't seen an affordable progressive that doesn't do this). If you set it(like I usually do) to shut off @ shift points and you need the progressive it does it for each gear. So I try to use as little Progressive as I can. My choice is to use minimum delay(none if it'll take it, last ditch to try to hook), Ramp up rate(again as quick as it can take it I adjust this after getting to 40% start), but 1st I try the start % will turn it down to 40%.

I know they've sold a bunch of kits and had no complaints that I've heard but I guess everyone is being sneeky. :)

The one thing I'd say if ya get a wet kit look into a fuel pump voltage booster, I've seen one data log from a wet kit(.052 jet) and it DID NOT GO LEAN but fuel pressure did drop from 50+ into the 40's, but A/F stayed safe. So I'd recommend the booster.
 

cmsnake

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Probably my car you watched, It just kinda ended up there. It moves in there a little bit I'm sure but it was easier than using tie wraps and anchoring it and then sealing a new hole in the intake tube. I've seen one kit that had a nozzel from a wet kit with the fuel side capped off and spraying through that. I'm not a flow engineer so can't tell ya if it makes any difference, but it's at 850-1100psi going into an airstream toward the TB It'll get there. :)

Best 1/4 time was a 10.99@127 had a crappy 60' and an 1/8 of 7.19@101(Not @ home so logs aren't with me so time is by memory). Had to set progressive @ 30-40% to get it to leave(also had it spray through shifts, not my usual setting). And this reminds me of the only thing I don't like about it(but haven't seen an affordable progressive that doesn't do this). If you set it(like I usually do) to shut off @ shift points and you need the progressive it does it for each gear. So I try to use as little Progressive as I can. My choice is to use minimum delay(none if it'll take it, last ditch to try to hook), Ramp up rate(again as quick as it can take it I adjust this after getting to 40% start), but 1st I try the start % will turn it down to 40%.

I know they've sold a bunch of kits and had no complaints that I've heard but I guess everyone is being sneeky. :)

The one thing I'd say if ya get a wet kit look into a fuel pump voltage booster, I've seen one data log from a wet kit(.052 jet) and it DID NOT GO LEAN but fuel pressure did drop from 50+ into the 40's, but A/F stayed safe. So I'd recommend the booster.
Thx for the info. Ive got a manual car and Id like to play around on the streets so the progressive hit seems like a good choice for me especially on street tires. Im afraid of running a wet plate kit and hitting it on a 60 roll and blowing the tires off. No fun. Im just speculating here but the softer progressive hit seems like it will be much more effective for me on street tires at first...although nothing feels better than a hard hit that hooks. Ive got a 3.31 gear so maybe a wet hard hit wont be as dramatic as Im thinking. Just thinking out loud here...
 

CPRsm

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I prefer dry on EFI unless direct injection. EFI manifolds aren't designed to flow fuel thru them. Not impossible. Just a preference. Not sure how well dry works on these ecu's though.
 

CharlieR

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Thx for the info. Ive got a manual car and Id like to play around on the streets so the progressive hit seems like a good choice for me especially on street tires. Im afraid of running a wet plate kit and hitting it on a 60 roll and blowing the tires off. No fun. Im just speculating here but the softer progressive hit seems like it will be much more effective for me on street tires at first...although nothing feels better than a hard hit that hooks. Ive got a 3.31 gear so maybe a wet hard hit wont be as dramatic as Im thinking. Just thinking out loud here...
I hear a lot about "soft" hits but sorry no such thing. 580#ft Torque hits hard, whether wet or dry. The "soft" hit on the dry kit is engine related due to the fuel being added from the injectors before the N2O actually "hits". No way you're doing(unless tire spin is the point) either set up on the street, on street tires.
 

Debro7046

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CharlieR said:
I know they've sold a bunch of kits and had no complaints that I've heard but I guess everyone is being sneeky. :)



I have the JMS dry kit. As a matter of fact I drove from nj to JMS chips in Mississippi to have them install it. I told them I was coming from nj when I made the appointment 3 weeks in advance. I even called 2 days before heading down there just to make sure they remembered I was coming. I made it down there just for them to tell me they have no nitrous to test the kit after install. They told me that they sold a bunch of these kits and that It should work fine. I didn't get a chance to test it until I got back to nj. Unfortunately the line they use from the nitrous sileniod in the trunk to the intake kept breaking by the ferrule fitting. Finally got it to not break long enough to test the kit. I first tried the 30% initial hit ramping up the other 70% over 2 seconds but couldn't even tell if it was actually working. You can here the nitrous go through the sileniod but the car didn't seem any faster. I changed the settings to 70% initial hit with the other 30% over a second and Still couldn't really tell A difference. I thought maybe something was wrong. I tried to take it 2 different repruable shops here in nj and neither wanted to touch it. I spoke with Monty from JMS several times trying to resolve the issue but he kept trying to assure me that the kit was fine. I refuse to believe that a 125 hit with a 1000psi bottle pressure can't even break my tires loose. All in all I wish I had just went with a wet kit like nitrous outlet's plate system. It seem others had good a experience with the JMS kit. Unfortunely my experience wasn't so positive.
 
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kirbyg16

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I have just a nitrous outlet dry kit on my car with a good tune. I had a wet kit before on my 2011 and the lean spike on the wet kits scares the hell out of me.
I prefer the dry kits now. I run a 52 jet around a 100 shot and I have gone [email protected] my car only has an offroad x pipe and gt500 mufflers. Stock gear, converter, driveshaft, suspension and I even still have the stock paper filter in the car.
 

cmsnake

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I prefer dry on EFI unless direct injection. EFI manifolds aren't designed to flow fuel thru them. Not impossible. Just a preference. Not sure how well dry works on these ecu's though.
Good point, I wasnt sure how the ecu's reacted to dry kits but seems like there are several examples here with no issues.

I hear a lot about "soft" hits but sorry no such thing. 580#ft Torque hits hard, whether wet or dry. The "soft" hit on the dry kit is engine related due to the fuel being added from the injectors before the N2O actually "hits". No way you're doing(unless tire spin is the point) either set up on the street, on street tires.
So with a 3.31 gear on a progressive hit at a 60 roll, you still think itll break loose real bad? Ive ran spray only once, a 150 dry kit on a 95gt. Slower car, but at 60 it put it down on 245 street tires. I guess maybe it was much slower though lol

I have the JMS dry kit. As a matter of fact I drove from nj to JMS chips in Mississippi to have them install it. I told them I was coming from nj when I made the appointment 3 weeks in advance. I even called 2 days before heading down there just to make sure they remembered I was coming. I made it down there just for them to tell me they have no nitrous to test the kit after install. They told me that they sold a bunch of these kits and that It should work fine. I didn't get a chance to test it until I got back to nj. Unfortunately the line they use from the nitrous sileniod in the trunk to the intake kept breaking by the ferrule fitting. Finally got it to not break long enough to test the kit. I first tried the 30% initial hit ramping up the other 70% over 2 seconds but couldn't even tell if it was actually working. You can here the nitrous go through the sileniod but the car didn't seem any faster. I changed the settings to 70% initial hit with the other 30% over a second and Still couldn't really tell A difference. I thought maybe something was wrong. I tried to take it 2 different repruable shops here in nj and neither wanted to touch it. I spoke with Monty from JMS several times trying to resolve the issue but he kept trying to assure me that the kit was fine. I refuse to believe that a 125 hit with a 1000psi bottle pressure can't even break my tires loose. All in all I wish I had just went with a wet kit like nitrous outlet's plate system. It seem others had good a experience with the JMS kit. Unfortunely my experience wasn't so positive.
Wow. You drove from NJ to south MS and now you have a non performing kit. That sucks. What was the final result from JMS? Did they try to rectify the problem? This doesnt sound good from a customer service stand point. On this subject, Ive heard nothing but good things from Nitrous Outlet.

I have just a nitrous outlet dry kit on my car with a good tune. I had a wet kit before on my 2011 and the lean spike on the wet kits scares the hell out of me.
I prefer the dry kits now. I run a 52 jet around a 100 shot and I have gone [email protected] my car only has an offroad x pipe and gt500 mufflers. Stock gear, converter, driveshaft, suspension and I even still have the stock paper filter in the car.
Thats impressive. Stock plugs? Tires? Any dyno numbers?

Did you try a fuel pump voltage booster to try and cure the lean spike with the wet kit? Maybe that might have helped. But it looks like you have a strong dry kit there.

Id do the wet kit for sure. Nitrous outlet is top notch.
I was nearly sold on this until I looked at the JMS dry kit, it got me thinking again. I guess Id like to hear from someone running the Nitrous Outlet wet plate kit.
 
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