Nitrous Express / 03Cobra

[Poisonous Mods]

Just got my Nitrous Express Kit via UPS today :beer:

Ive been a bit worried about blow back fires so im being really iffy about going with the wet kit.

Every one has various opinions on this matter so not sure what im going to do :bash:

My tuner just explained to me that the blow backs are caused because the Nitrous hits the TB Blades while not fully open.
So Basically there should be no Blow Back Fires as long as the TB Switch only activates the Nitrous once its really WOT.

He tells me he preffer me to do the wet kit I/O the dry kit.

Any comments would be highly appreciated. :beer:

 

[GR8WHITE]

With the wet kit you won't have the worries about being too lean. It supplies enough extra fuel if you use the correct jets that NX tells you to use for the size shot you're wanting to use. A dry shot WILL lean your car out. It depends on a vaccuum to increase FP. That is a big problem on the returnless fuel setups.Once the microswitch is set right you shouldn't have any problems. Meaning that it only cuts the N2O on at WOT like you had already mentioned. Just remember to start out small and you'll be fine. A 50 shot works more like a 75+ on a roots car due to the extra added benefit of cooling the rotors and dropping incoming air temps quite a bit.

 

[Poisonous Mods]

GR8WHITE...Thanks
Wise One, i must ask if u know further on the Returnless Fuel system.

Well i figure that the Solenoid will not let Fuel into the Nozzel unless its activated as well with the TPS Switch. but what about the fuel inside the line prior to the Solenoid?

Oh maybe i do get it.

I hope there is a smaller jet then 50
Yes i agree with ya. Small baby steps ;-)

:beer: :beer:

 

[GR8WHITE]

There should be fuel before the solenoid. Then when the throttle microswitch is activated at WOT it will open the fuel and N2O solenoids thus allowing the bottle pressue and fuel pressure to force their respective components into the engine. ;-)

You'll be fine on the 50 shot. Trust me. Just make sure you're already hooked with good traction. ;-) :beer:

 

[GR8WHITE]

Originally posted by Poisonous Mods
GR8WHITE...Thanks
Wise One...

LOL. I don't know if I'd go that far. :lol1: :beer:

 

[Poisonous Mods]

Originally posted by GR8WHITE
LOL. I don't know if I'd go that far. :lol1: :beer:

Hey i call it the way i see it :beer:

Seen u give great info out to folks in all kinds of issues.

:beer: :beer:

 

[Poisonous Mods]

So with Gasoline only Igniting at around 495 - 536F, there is no way that the inside of the Eaton can get that freaking hot right?
I figure it this way.

More Gas Relates to Cooler Gas Temps.
Cooler Gas Temps Translates to Cooler Engine Temps.
Cooler Cylenders Walls Translates to less Pinging or Detonation Percent.

Right :shrug:

Also to this factor i can add on the fact that the Nitrous Oxide being very cold will also bring down Temps of the Eaton S/C, thus bringing down the percentage of Blow Back Fire.

Hum...em i crazy or does it make sense :dw:

 

[Poisonous Mods]

Also adding some benefit, I would have the activation switch inside the Cabine VS the TPS Switch. This way NO Nitrous Activiation is going to happen until i finish shifting & pushing the button for the Nitrous/Gas.

Thus helping the issue out with Blow Back Fires.

Hum...im crazy i think?

 

[SonicVenum]

Okay, some info on gasoline...

The flashpoint (temp at which flammable vapors are released) of gasoline is -45 deg F. Gasoline itself will ignite at 495 deg F. However, gasoline vapors will only burn when the percentage of fuel vapor in the air is 1.4-7.6%. Gasoline vapors easily become too rich to burn, hence the lit match thrown in a full can of gas not igniting the fuel.

Hope this helps.

 

[Poisonous Mods]

Originally posted by SonicVenum
Okay, some info on gasoline...

The flashpoint (temp at which flammable vapors are released) of gasoline is -45 deg F. Gasoline itself will ignite at 495 deg F. However, gasoline vapors will only burn when the percentage of fuel vapor in the air is 1.4-7.6%. Gasoline vapors easily become too rich to burn, hence the lit match thrown in a full can of gas not igniting the fuel.

Hope this helps.

Man ur are the dude on that note.

So i still have a good chance of having a Blow Back Fire.
Dang u threw some math in my head that its spinning now. :cryying:

Can u put it into a better idea.
Nitrous/Gas is going to go into the Inlet Pipe but only before the TB. Im not sure if there is any vapor in the S/C but i think i would add the chance inside the S/C before it gets into the Intercooler..right :shrug:

 

[SonicVenum]

There should be no fuel vapor in the s/c or the intercooler. Though N2O itself is not flammable, it is an oxidizer. When it is heated to 565 deg F, it releases its oxygen molecule. This creates power in a combustion chamber, but it will also feed a fire like no other. It releases so much O2 that it can easily lean out rich gasoline vapor into its perfect level of igintion.

 

[Poisonous Mods]

Dang Juan...all this info stored in ur big old head & u dont share :nonono: J/K.
Dude i knew u were smart but did i figure u out wrong. Ur freaking smarter from id believed. :thumbsup:

So what at what point can Vapor Ignite as mentioned above? Cause that Gas in Bucket theory is good but with all that air around the bucket the percentage drops...right?

Im thinking that there is no possible way that the S/C will keep Gas in
Main thing being is that the S/C with the Heat Soak will not ignite the Gas since the temps are only max say of 300F. :shrug:

 

[SonicVenum]

Right above the bucket, the a/f mixture is way too rich to ignite. However, if you hold a match at the right distance from the bucket, you will get the right a/f mixture and...boom.

The s/c shouldn't get ANY fuel in it because it's sending air IN to the combustion chamber. So, you don't have to worry about the temp in the s/c. Besides, like you said above, the N2O is going to really cool off the inlet air temp and the s/c. What you have to worry about is any sort of fuel leak creating gas vapor in the air in and around the engine compartment. If it happens to ignite, any N2O present will feed the fire...boom.

 

[Poisonous Mods]

Thats right dude.

When i turn on the BBQ it not igniting with the switch. So i have to use a match or some other light source. I can smell it but it wont light up till i get really close to the point of the Gas. But when it does ignite....yeah i remember my arm hairs smelling nasty.

So u mean i shouldnt run it WET? Im just scared of pockets of gas being stuck in the S/C blades.

 

[GR8WHITE]

Originally posted by Poisonous Mods
... there is no way that the inside of the Eaton can get that freaking hot right?

Also to this factor i can add on the fact that the Nitrous Oxide being very cold will also bring down Temps of the Eaton S/C, thus bringing down the percentage of Blow Back Fire.

Hum...em i crazy or does it make sense :dw:

The rotors in the Eaton do generate alot of heat. That is why the Kenne Bell at same boost level creates more HP. There is less frictional mass and therefore less heat.

Yep the N2O is very cold. A few hundred degrees below zero actually, in liquid form. Yep it will cool all the things it touches down. It's biggest benefit is the extra O2 it brings into the mixture. It increases the brisance of the mixture and makes more HP in doing so. Remember the oxygen is the part of Nitrous that increases the speed and size of the explosion. The inert element nitrogen is added to keep the explosion under control.

The big problem with backfires comes when people hit the N2O trigger and they are not WOT above 2500 RPM's. The engine can't quite burn all that gets dumped in right away, so it puddles. Then when it does ignite, BLAM!!. Use the throttle switch. It will keep you from spraying N2O into the motor by accident when you are shifting. If you want to get real trick, add an RPM window switch. Have it cut on at 3000 RPM and cut off at about 400 RPM before you usually shift. The N2O won't be armed until you are WOT (excluding the Master On/Off switch) and then it will cut on and off automaticly @ the RPMs you set. All you will have to do is drive the car then. If you get wheel spin, you can crack the throttle just a touch and the N2O will cut off allowing you to get traction back. Then smack it back to the floor. I know it might sound a touch complicated. However, it makes driving the car much easier this way. Only way I'd use the hand held N2O switch is if I had an auto transmission.

 

[GR8WHITE]

Originally posted by Poisonous Mods

So u mean i shouldnt run it WET? Im just scared of pockets of gas being stuck in the S/C blades.

I think Venum meant leaks out in the engine bay.

Think about the Eaton's purpose. It is there to FORCE air into the engine. Nothing is staying between those rotors. ;-) The wet kit is the safest way to go on a car that already has a SC on it. The wet kit brings it's own fuel supply into the mix, therefore you are not going to run lean. When that happens the pistons get melted. You can run lean on a dry kit if you do not get the car retuned for the dry kit. You'd need like a flip chip. One for normal SC driving and the second program for the dry N2O that changes the fuel and timing curves. Basicly a PITA. Trust me the wet kit is safe as long as you follow the manufacturers jetting sizes, and start small. You'll be fine.:beer: :thumbsup:

 

[Poisonous Mods]

Man i learned a heck of alot today from the both of ya.

Really a million thanks on this for sugerty :beer: :beer:

RPM Switch might be in order....just as u said keeping it safe.

Thank you. :thumbsup:

 

[juicedgt02]

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Originally posted by GR8WHITE
LOL. I don't know if I'd go that far.
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Hey i call it the way i see it

Seen u give great info out to folks in all kinds of issues.




I agree you do give good advice/info on a lot of issues. Great job Big fish

:beer:

 

[GR8WHITE]

:beer:
You guys are too kind.
:burnout:

 

[97whitecobra]

Good info here for sure, keep up the good work.