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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Road Side Pub
New HVAC system
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<blockquote data-quote="Thump_rrr" data-source="post: 14773796" data-attributes="member: 36572"><p>I am an HVAC professional and I will give you my professional opinion.</p><p></p><p>Sizing of the new unit is critical to proper operation. </p><p>A unit that is too large will be inefficient and will not dehumidify correctly. </p><p>This will lead to greater problems than if the unit was too small and it ran longer.</p><p></p><p>What did they do to determine the capacity requirements for your new system?</p><p>A professional should use Manual J to determine heat load calculations through walls, floors, windows, and the roof as well as solar gains from different exposures.</p><p>This will take hours to complete unless you have a cookie cutter home which the contractor has already done the calculations for.</p><p></p><p>Please read and understand the following before "shopping" for a contractor and system.</p><p><a href="http://www.acca.org/homes/" target="_blank">http://www.acca.org/homes/</a></p><p></p><p>I am a commercial contractor who sometimes does residential for my commercial clients.</p><p>I also like Trane equipment particularly their TAM7 and TAM8 model indoor units due to their plastic cabinetry which has an injected foam core for insulation. There is no wool insulation in the unit to attract dust.</p><p></p><p>An air to air heat pump has an operating cost of 1/3 compared to an electric heat coil so the ability to heat with a heatpump down to 10F-12F will be advantageous to you.</p><p></p><p>Unless new ductwork is installed your existing ductwork will determine how large a system can be installed.</p><p></p><p>As for installing the system in the garage I will warn you in advance.</p><p>Many locations prohibit a system from being installed in a garage due to carbon monoxide. </p><p>If a car is started in the garage the carbon monoxide can be carried out throughout the home.</p><p>Where I am located you cannot even pass ductwork through a garage without it being covered in 2 layers of drywall and all joints taped.</p><p></p><p>As for control of the system I would spend the money on a Honeywell Visionpro IAQ thermostat that can properly control heatpump operation as well as control Indoor Air Quality hence the name IAQ.</p><p></p><p>You can also add zone control to address overheating and overcooling in different parts of the home.</p><p></p><p>If you can please measure the main duct leaving your existing unit I will give you an idea of what size unit was probably installed originally.</p><p></p><p>Edited to add: If you are to add ductwork for additional spaces it should be done from the main trunk at the unit not to disrupt the distribution of the remaining system.</p><p></p><p>1KW=3412 BTU 1cubic foot of propane =2,500 BTU with these numbers you can calculate your costs for equivalent amounts of electricity and propane.</p><p></p><p>For arguments sake if your house requires a 3 ton system then the contractor can install a 3.5ton evaporator with a 3ton outdoor unit to provide more heat although I don't know if this is required for NC.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Thump_rrr, post: 14773796, member: 36572"] I am an HVAC professional and I will give you my professional opinion. Sizing of the new unit is critical to proper operation. A unit that is too large will be inefficient and will not dehumidify correctly. This will lead to greater problems than if the unit was too small and it ran longer. What did they do to determine the capacity requirements for your new system? A professional should use Manual J to determine heat load calculations through walls, floors, windows, and the roof as well as solar gains from different exposures. This will take hours to complete unless you have a cookie cutter home which the contractor has already done the calculations for. Please read and understand the following before "shopping" for a contractor and system. [URL="http://www.acca.org/homes/"]http://www.acca.org/homes/[/URL] I am a commercial contractor who sometimes does residential for my commercial clients. I also like Trane equipment particularly their TAM7 and TAM8 model indoor units due to their plastic cabinetry which has an injected foam core for insulation. There is no wool insulation in the unit to attract dust. An air to air heat pump has an operating cost of 1/3 compared to an electric heat coil so the ability to heat with a heatpump down to 10F-12F will be advantageous to you. Unless new ductwork is installed your existing ductwork will determine how large a system can be installed. As for installing the system in the garage I will warn you in advance. Many locations prohibit a system from being installed in a garage due to carbon monoxide. If a car is started in the garage the carbon monoxide can be carried out throughout the home. Where I am located you cannot even pass ductwork through a garage without it being covered in 2 layers of drywall and all joints taped. As for control of the system I would spend the money on a Honeywell Visionpro IAQ thermostat that can properly control heatpump operation as well as control Indoor Air Quality hence the name IAQ. You can also add zone control to address overheating and overcooling in different parts of the home. If you can please measure the main duct leaving your existing unit I will give you an idea of what size unit was probably installed originally. Edited to add: If you are to add ductwork for additional spaces it should be done from the main trunk at the unit not to disrupt the distribution of the remaining system. 1KW=3412 BTU 1cubic foot of propane =2,500 BTU with these numbers you can calculate your costs for equivalent amounts of electricity and propane. For arguments sake if your house requires a 3 ton system then the contractor can install a 3.5ton evaporator with a 3ton outdoor unit to provide more heat although I don't know if this is required for NC. [/QUOTE]
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