After pulling my k member to do a header install I noticed how bound up the front A arms are and would like to replace the bushing. I dont have the money to buy a after market k-member setup that i would want so I have been thinking about changing the bushings. I see the only options are prothane, global west, steeda. From what i heave read polyurethane is not the way to go. I have also read about the global west and steeda's offset the a arms forward. Doe's anyone have any experience or input on any of these?
New FCA Bushings
- Thread starter Termilvr
- Start date
I just did the GW Del-A-Lum Bushings.
The cost of the part is one thing.
But you will need a shop to press out the old bushings/sleeves and press in the new AL sleeves.
Others have done it with a press/vise and sockets...but it is some doing.
Figure $35/bushing (two hours work) or more if you have it done by a mechanic/shop...and worth every penny.
As far as the bushings go..they are the Balls...and like the FTBR Delrin bushings..they have grease fittings.
Arms move freely now....and are at least 1/4" forward.
The MM bushings are the same as GW but $$$.
Global West Suspension 1076RD - Global West Suspension Del-a-lum Control Arm Bushings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Mustang 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
The cost of the part is one thing.
But you will need a shop to press out the old bushings/sleeves and press in the new AL sleeves.
Others have done it with a press/vise and sockets...but it is some doing.
Figure $35/bushing (two hours work) or more if you have it done by a mechanic/shop...and worth every penny.
As far as the bushings go..they are the Balls...and like the FTBR Delrin bushings..they have grease fittings.
Arms move freely now....and are at least 1/4" forward.
The MM bushings are the same as GW but $$$.
Global West Suspension 1076RD - Global West Suspension Del-a-lum Control Arm Bushings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Mustang 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
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Did you feel any improvment in handling that would make the price of them and the hassle of installing them worth it? does the wheel look weird pushed 1/4inch forward in the wheel well or is it not noticable?
The MM delrin bushings started out as a Ford Racing part. Here are my reinforced front A-arms with the delrin bushings, beefy Moog ball joints replacing the zero friction OEM units. These bushings are a thing of beauty (anodized housing with a spiral grease groove, huge bearing surface compared to tubular arms and zerk fitting).
I think you have to buy new A-arms from Ford if you want new rubber bushings. Pressing the sleeve out would be extremely difficult: cuss:
To remove the bushings use a drill press and bore holes in the rubber to weaken it. Then use a hydraulic press and a fat socket that fits inside the sleeve press the rubber out of the sleeve. Using a hacksaw blade on a handle cut a slit along the length of the sleeve then used a chisel to tear the sleeve away from the A-arm. Be careful pressing in the delrin outer sleeve into the A-arm. The holes in the A-arm are not supported in the back and will bend if they are not supported (my welded-in brace helped here).
I think you have to buy new A-arms from Ford if you want new rubber bushings. Pressing the sleeve out would be extremely difficult: cuss:
To remove the bushings use a drill press and bore holes in the rubber to weaken it. Then use a hydraulic press and a fat socket that fits inside the sleeve press the rubber out of the sleeve. Using a hacksaw blade on a handle cut a slit along the length of the sleeve then used a chisel to tear the sleeve away from the A-arm. Be careful pressing in the delrin outer sleeve into the A-arm. The holes in the A-arm are not supported in the back and will bend if they are not supported (my welded-in brace helped here).
The GW bushings have the beefy AL sleeve with grease grooves as well.
I used Steeda X2.
As far as noticing any difference...I did it this Winter and have no real time on them...Also after a Winter with the Audi..I end up relearning the Mustang every Spring anyway.
I do want to say the car seems to cut in or bite the corners more..I don't know how to describe it better.
I knew that I was keeping the OEM K-member and A-arms...so the decision was easy for me.
IMO If you have plans for MM derlin A-arms with coilovers...then maybe MM K-member ....then just get some prothane bushings without the sleeves..and do that for now.
I used Steeda X2.
As far as noticing any difference...I did it this Winter and have no real time on them...Also after a Winter with the Audi..I end up relearning the Mustang every Spring anyway.
I do want to say the car seems to cut in or bite the corners more..I don't know how to describe it better.
I knew that I was keeping the OEM K-member and A-arms...so the decision was easy for me.
IMO If you have plans for MM derlin A-arms with coilovers...then maybe MM K-member ....then just get some prothane bushings without the sleeves..and do that for now.
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The 1/4" forward is not even noticable..MM offset arms move the wheels 3/4" with no problems!!...and with MMs K-member it's possible to go to a 1-1/2" total forward offset (some adjustments need to be made for that offset).
My lowered swaybar endlinks lined up better with the offset in the A-arms as well.
My lowered swaybar endlinks lined up better with the offset in the A-arms as well.
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