Need to fix camber!

[celticfdguy]

I have a 2007 GT500. I lowered the car with the eibach pro springs and threw on a set of 2012 SVTPP 19"/20" staggered rims. I then had a local shop install the front camber bolts, do an alignment and install an adjustable rear panhard bar.

Well I noticed my tires are starting to dry rot so I want to buy new tires... I also noticed the outside of the tires are wearing more than the inside. My question is what can I do to get these tires completely flat on the road so they wear evenly? I don't want to buy a set of new tires and they are trashed in a year or two because of this. Would a set of caster camber plates help the front? Not sure what else to do in the rear.

 

[barspen]

Camber plate would help. Just keep in mind, that negative camber up front makes the car turn-in better (rough settings = -3.0 race, -2.0 HPDE, -1.0 Street), but at the expensive of more inside wear. If you don't care about more responsiveness up front, camber plates can dial in your alignment to a neutral setting. Not much you can do with the back...but you shouldn't have excessive wear unless something is wrong.

 

[sleek98]

Camber plates would fix the issue up front, but the camber bolts might just need to be adjusted, I would have the alignment checked first.

The rear camber is solid, there is nothing to be done there.

 

[RedVenom48]

+1 on getting current alignment specs. You dont know what they are at, so you don't know what to do to fix it.

Sounds like you need to take away camber (make it negative), or your front toe might set in correctly.

 

[WCA]

Camber has very little effect on tire wear. I am betting its toed in too far. Have the alignment checked.

 

[Robert M]

Here are the specs from the local Ford dealer on my 2008.............



I have Eibach Pro Street-S coilovers that are adjusted to the bottom on the front and 20X10 Alcoa's with 275's, my car feels Very Nice/Grippy in turns and is still within Ford alignment specs (Green)..............



I have no caster/camber plates or camber bolts, just oem hardware, strut mounts and the Eibachs.

R

 

[ZYBORG]

Definitely have the alignment checked. No reason you should be wearing the outside of the tire more, with the current measurements provided.

I would aim for -1.0 camber on a street car.

 

[scotsam]

If you have outside wear it's more then likely toed in. To wear the outsides with camber would take a lot of positive camber to the point of the car handling quite bad.

 

[tomshep]

Toed in. The tires are not parallel, they are closer on the front than the back so you are "scrubbing" the outside edge of the tires going straight.

CC plates don't adjust toe. Get it aligned.

Tom

 

[455HO71]

I'm going through the same issue currently but the opposite. I've had the car lowered, panhard etc and I just replaced the stock goodyears up front because of excessive wear on the inside (both tires actually had multiple blisters all the way around the inside). I had my alignment done for the second time in a year because I really noticed the negative camber when I installed a slightly smaller tire on the front when I swapped in 2014 pp wheels for a couple of months. Negative camber up front is at -1.7 which is too much for street driving. I don't road race and I don't want to dish out another $800 in 25k miles for new tires again. I believe for decent handling street specs, -.75 to -1 is optimal. I too have to get cam bolts installed this week and I'll also be looking at the caster numbers once I dial that in. Good luck

 

[tomshep]

Not sure on earlier years, but on my 14 you can rotate the strut plates that bolt to the strut tower 180* to add some positive camber. You can do this with the whole assembly on the car. I just had to unbolt the sway bar and put a jack under the rotor to carry the weight when I unbolted the strut plate. Dropped it a few inches, rotated the plate, jacked back up. Took about 30 minutes per side.

Tom

 

[celticfdguy]

Thank you all for the replies, really appreciate it. I know Robert M said the Ford dealer did the alignment. I went to Mavis years ago and they told me their computers couldn't do my alignment because I was running staggered 2012 SVTPP rims on my car. I went to a local mustang shop and they said the same... They had to do the alignment manually by eye. Is this not the case? Can ford still do my alignment on a 2007 GT500 with 2012 SVTPP rims?

 

[RedVenom48]

Camber spec isnt going to be wildly differen at all for our cars. Wheel size shouldnt matter either. Tell em to stop being ****ing divas and align your damn car.

 

[Robert M]

Thank you all for the replies, really appreciate it. I know Robert M said the Ford dealer did the alignment. I went to Mavis years ago and they told me their computers couldn't do my alignment because I was running staggered 2012 SVTPP rims on my car. I went to a local mustang shop and they said the same... They had to do the alignment manually by eye. Is this not the case? Can ford still do my alignment on a 2007 GT500 with 2012 SVTPP rims?

My local Ford dealership did mine after I had moved my original 10" rear Alcoa's to the front and added the 12" Alcoa's to the rear, so they def. did a staggered set-up. I watched the tech set up the head units that mount to the wheels so that there was no Alcoa damage, and then he dialed it in from under the front of the car on the alignment rack.

Really the only reason I went to have an alignment in the fist place is because when Shelby installed the Eibach coilovers in Las Vegas, they left my right front tire tilting out at the top and the left front basically straight up, that always bugged me. So I decided to bring the car in and let the adjust both sides equal (or as equal as possible), and what you see on that chart I added is what they came up with. "If" I would have not put the 10" wide 275 tire Alcoa's on the front, they could have tilted the tires in even more at the top, but as it is right now, with that wide of a rim/tire combo, I can't even slip my index finger between the tire bulge and the Eibach coilover adj. plate, it is that close.

But what a big difference it made changing from a 255/9" Alcoa to a 275/10" Alcoa on the front!! Immediately when I pulled out of my driveway and drove up my street I could feel a difference in how the car handled, especially when I drove the car a little more and pressed it into turns. The wider front footprint on a heavy nosed GT500 made a big difference in a positive way, a difference that I was not expecting.


R