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Need some more help on front popping noise...
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<blockquote data-quote="exdeath" data-source="post: 8537339" data-attributes="member: 56343"><p>Yes, that is the lower half of the factory rubber bushed mount. All that crap is eliminated with CC plates. The top threaded portion of the bare strut piston passes through the bottom plate-shock tower-middle plate sandwich (without touching) and is bolted (with solid metal spacers) only into the spherical steel bearing in the top most CC plate. That is to say, that the entire load of the strut shaft, including coilovers when installed, passes through the stepped shoulder of the shaft, through spacers, into the inner part of the bearing in the upper CC plate.</p><p></p><p>If you have coilovers also, you have an additional physical interface between the strut body, spring, and upper spring perch cone positioned just under the spacers below the bearing. The top of the coilover system should also not be touching anything, it should be centered in the strut tower opening and on the strut shaft, resting only on the spacers on the strut shaft, below the bearing that the strut is bolted too.</p><p></p><p>No part of the entire assembly should contact the bottom plate, strut tower, or middle plate at any time, through full suspension travel and turning lock to lock. The only part of the top of the strut (including coil over) that should ever be in contact with anything at the top of the strut tower, is the threaded portion of the strut shaft, via solid spacers and top nut, connected to the center of the bearing, and it should be free to pivot, without any part of the shaft on either side of the bearing hitting anything.</p><p></p><p>Some things to check, assuming everything is torqued correctly and nothing is broken or loose:</p><p></p><p>1) popping may have to do with your plates installed in the "race" orientation that pushes the camber range too extreme and causes the strut (or top of spring assembly with coilovers) to be too far from the center of the strut tower hole with a "street" alignment and make contact with the edge of the sheet metal in the strut tower. You can generally fix this by swapping the middle plates from driver to passenger side, if that is the case. </p><p></p><p>2) You might also make sure the strut shaft spacers are installed correctly. You must use spacers on most CC plates, at least on the top, so that the bearing is free to pivot without the top nut binding up against the bearing or plate. Space is tight to both immediate sides of the bearing, the spacers keep the area above and below the bearing narrow so the bearing has room to swivel side to side freely without something binding. </p><p></p><p>3) Upper spring perch hitting lower plate bolts if you have coilovers. You adjust this with spacers between the spring perch and lower bearing, at the cost of suspension travel (bump distance).</p><p></p><p>4) If the car is lowered via more spacers at the top of the strut shaft, and the shaft is protruding through the engine bay higher than stock, check hood clearance.</p><p></p><p>You really have to start grabbing things with your fingers while replicating the popping and figure out where it's coming from, and get in there with a mirror.</p><p></p><p>And don't just check after installation, CHECK CLEARANCES AFTER ALIGNMENT! With the car supported from the frame, wheel off, and a jack under the control arm, turning the wheel lock to lock at both full compression and full rebound.</p><p></p><p>If you need visuals, go to maximummotorsports.com and look at the installation instructions for the camber/caster plates and coilovers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="exdeath, post: 8537339, member: 56343"] Yes, that is the lower half of the factory rubber bushed mount. All that crap is eliminated with CC plates. The top threaded portion of the bare strut piston passes through the bottom plate-shock tower-middle plate sandwich (without touching) and is bolted (with solid metal spacers) only into the spherical steel bearing in the top most CC plate. That is to say, that the entire load of the strut shaft, including coilovers when installed, passes through the stepped shoulder of the shaft, through spacers, into the inner part of the bearing in the upper CC plate. If you have coilovers also, you have an additional physical interface between the strut body, spring, and upper spring perch cone positioned just under the spacers below the bearing. The top of the coilover system should also not be touching anything, it should be centered in the strut tower opening and on the strut shaft, resting only on the spacers on the strut shaft, below the bearing that the strut is bolted too. No part of the entire assembly should contact the bottom plate, strut tower, or middle plate at any time, through full suspension travel and turning lock to lock. The only part of the top of the strut (including coil over) that should ever be in contact with anything at the top of the strut tower, is the threaded portion of the strut shaft, via solid spacers and top nut, connected to the center of the bearing, and it should be free to pivot, without any part of the shaft on either side of the bearing hitting anything. Some things to check, assuming everything is torqued correctly and nothing is broken or loose: 1) popping may have to do with your plates installed in the "race" orientation that pushes the camber range too extreme and causes the strut (or top of spring assembly with coilovers) to be too far from the center of the strut tower hole with a "street" alignment and make contact with the edge of the sheet metal in the strut tower. You can generally fix this by swapping the middle plates from driver to passenger side, if that is the case. 2) You might also make sure the strut shaft spacers are installed correctly. You must use spacers on most CC plates, at least on the top, so that the bearing is free to pivot without the top nut binding up against the bearing or plate. Space is tight to both immediate sides of the bearing, the spacers keep the area above and below the bearing narrow so the bearing has room to swivel side to side freely without something binding. 3) Upper spring perch hitting lower plate bolts if you have coilovers. You adjust this with spacers between the spring perch and lower bearing, at the cost of suspension travel (bump distance). 4) If the car is lowered via more spacers at the top of the strut shaft, and the shaft is protruding through the engine bay higher than stock, check hood clearance. You really have to start grabbing things with your fingers while replicating the popping and figure out where it's coming from, and get in there with a mirror. And don't just check after installation, CHECK CLEARANCES AFTER ALIGNMENT! With the car supported from the frame, wheel off, and a jack under the control arm, turning the wheel lock to lock at both full compression and full rebound. If you need visuals, go to maximummotorsports.com and look at the installation instructions for the camber/caster plates and coilovers. [/QUOTE]
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Need some more help on front popping noise...
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