Need some advice for headers/x pipe. I'm lost.

Chris_98Cobra

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I'm sure these questions have been asked a million times, I have been reading a ton of posts and stuff on the internet but I'm having a hard time finding the products and have confused myself.

In a few months I will be tackling my exhaust, I figure I'll do a k-member at the same time to make install easier and really just to free up some room. It's the exhaust that has me tweaked.

I want to avoid LT, just because of the hassle if I ever need to drop the tranny and fitment/clearance issues. I was thinking mid-length Bassani but I can't for the life of me figure out the x-pipe. Everything I read says the Bassani 5 piece off road x pipe will work, I suppose that's why they come with 5 pieces. But the pics look like the shorter pipes don't have a flange. Am I just seeing that wrong and as long as I get the 5 piece I will be good to go?

Also with the mid-length, do I need to assemble them or are they direct bolt on? I keep reading that you install one tube at a time then add the collector? The instructions seem to just show you sliding the collector on, is it then welded?

Basically I'm looking for a "dumb guy" break down. The last install I went with was my old 88 and that was just shorties and a x-pipe, and dumped mufflers. It was all pretty much plug and play except welding on the mufflers. So trying to wrap my head around this setup is making my head spin. I keep thinking it shouldn't be this confusing and I'm probably over thinking the whole thing.
 

Chris_98Cobra

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I guess the biggest reason would be dropping the trans. I've read some people say that with a tubular k member you can drop the header without lifting the engine or dropping the k member, but it still seems like a huge pita to drop the trans with LTs. I figured mid length would be the "best of both worlds". Better than a shorty....which apparently nobody makes anyway, but I wouldn't run into issues dropping the trans.
 

9397SVTs

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I understand your concern about possible service issues later on, but LT headers are your best bang for the buck and will provide a wider range of improvement over shorty or mid-length headers.

I would recommend ceramic coated BBK LT's and their H-pipe (off-road version if possible).
 

Chris_98Cobra

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I'm not in an emissions state, so I will absolutely go with off-road. I'm just very nervous about the issue when dropping the trans. I don't plan on dropping the car very much, about an inch up front and .75 in back. I hate the tractor look of the stock height, but don't want it slammed. From what I have been reading having a tubular k-member (thinking UPR stock arm position and no coil overs), people have much easier access to the headers.

I'm lucky I have access to a lift and won't be doing it on the ground.

About the BBK lts. The instructions all seem to indicate that you install one tube at a time and add the collector. But every pic of the BBKs I see they are already assembled. I know some LTs need to be assembled, do the BBKs?
 

Chris_98Cobra

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I would not spend the money on mid-lengths as I've never seen gains that are worth it to me.

With that said, Hooker, Flowtech and maybe 1 or 2 others allow you to drop the tranny without loosening the header IIRC.

Checking out both BBK and Flowtech, I'd lean towards the Flowtech because of the tranny issue. But I'm still confused about install. I would drop the k-member because I'd be replacing it with tubular (along with motor mounts and oil pan reseal) at the same time. But I'm still confused about the collector part of the install. All the instructions show each exhaust pipe coming from the head as being separate and you slip on the collector once you have the header in. Yet every install video and pic of them they are already assembled and people are installing them as one complete unit.
 

shurur

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the jba midlength headers are one piece and net about 12 whooping hp.

the bassani ml headers come with 4 separate tubes and a cone per side....all points to leak...you have to goop them up with something or get very lucky..

you do get some ground clearance with ML headers..thats about it ..imo.

I am leaning toward pacesetters because they have good clearance and are cheap...but I am willing to go in again if necessary..later..with more $.

so far..i think the pacesetters work with the bbk catterd midpipe..but am not completely sure..

as for my oil pan...it will not wait until i put in headers...
 
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blownstang4.6

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Kooks and American Racing Headers let you drop the trans without touching them. They are also the best quality and fitment. You will pay a pretty penny if bought new. Try looking for used ones. There have been a couple floating around on Facebook pages. My advice would be to save the money you would spend on headers and a K member kit and put it towards a used centri supercharger.
 

Tabres

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I had Flowtechs on my car once upon a time. Could never get them to stop leaking at the slip-fit no matter what I did. I wouldn't recommend them. If you're wanting long-tubes, I'd encourage you to go with a one piece design like the BBK's or spend more for a nicer set.

If the car isn't your daily and you don't rely on it for transportation, go with long-tubes. So you spend an hour or two extra if you have to remove the transmission, who cares? Small investment in the scheme of things. The mid-lengths and shorty headers really aren't worth the marginal power increase for the cost of them and the pain of install.


If you really have your heart set on shortys, JBA makes a nice set for our cars, but they're expensive...

JBA 1625S-5JT: 1-5/8" Shorty Headers 1996-1997 Mustang Cobra 4.6L 4V | JEGS
 

Mr.Sensitivity

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If I were you I would skip the mid length as the others have said. I would go with hooker, kooks or AR. Even the ceramic coated BBK headers are pretty cheap. They give you the most trouble dropping your trans/scrubbing and there are loads of horror stories if the ceramic coating flaking off after a year, thus soaking your engine in heat just like a painted set.

And yes, the bassani 5 piece has no flange on the cut out sections. It is a butt connection that uses strap clamps though instead of ring clamps to seal it off.
Hope that helps!

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9397SVTs

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If I were you I would skip the mid length as the others have said. I would go with hooker, kooks or AR. Even the ceramic coated BBK headers are pretty cheap. They give you the most trouble dropping your trans/scrubbing and there are loads of horror stories if the ceramic coating flaking off after a year, thus soaking your engine in heat just like a painted set.
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Is this a recent problem with BBK? I've had a few sets and haven't experienced a problem with the coating. These were bought 12-20 years ago, though.

I wouldn't call them cheap. They are reasonably priced, well made and bolt up / seal properly. At least that's my experience. Kooks are nice, but are they $900-$1,000 better? The AR show '99 and up, but are also $1,000 more. Will they perform better, I think so. But is the extra cost worth it?

It all depends on what the goal is for the OP.
 

Mr.Sensitivity

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Is this a recent problem with BBK? I've had a few sets and haven't experienced a problem with the coating. These were bought 12-20 years ago, though.

I wouldn't call them cheap. They are reasonably priced, well made and bolt up / seal properly. At least that's my experience. Kooks are nice, but are they $900-$1,000 better? The AR show '99 and up, but are also $1,000 more. Will they perform better, I think so. But is the extra cost worth it?

It all depends on what the goal is for the OP.
I couldn't tell you how long the problem has persisted. All I know is that the reviews are littered with the same statements of flaking and in my small pool to sample from 3 of 4 people I know had a bad experience with bbk headers. The 4th found some used hookers.

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9397SVTs

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Ok. I was unaware of a possible change in quality issue with them. I don't want to give poor recommendations.
 

Mr.Sensitivity

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Ok. I was unaware of a possible change in quality issue with them. I don't want to give poor recommendations.
They'll still do the job and are a good budget item I think. You just have to know going in that you can't drop the tranny with them in place and the ceramic will come off in about a year to 1.5yrs now it seems.

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