What's up guys. I need opinions from the blower guys. I finally got the car running to where it can hade the supercharger correctly (knock on wood). I am getting two tunes maybe. He is going to adjust the timing and see if it will help gas mileage for a street tune. I told him if he doesn't think it is worth it and don't get results then the one tune is fine. He was working on my first tune for the last few hours. He finally got 444hp with mid 12s with a/f (i think). He was still adjusting to make it safer. I don't know if he cut it off before he hit max rpms or if he is just going to curve it for safety to get lower a/f ratio. These guys are awesome and well respected here in san dawg. Now I obviously don't have internals. When I blew my motor my timing was all jacked and my second fuel pump was suppose to turn on in boost. It never really worked. Fixed that with the aviator. So my question is would you feel safe to run around 440 plus or minus or would you guys go safer around 420hp w/the stock internals. He is going to finish up the tune tomorrow so if I am going to safe it out this is the time. I don't run the car in boost all the time and I am about to buy the plx a/f gauges for insurance. Open conversation so thanks for opinions.
Need input
- Thread starter johnjib
- Start date
I'd feel a little safer at that power level if the A/F was around 11.8
WIth a centri blower it can be a little leaner in the low rpms before boost starts to come in but as soon as your seeing postive pressure I'd want to see around 11.8 for the A/F
I think 440 is probably fine though. As has been reported around here lately, there are people runing around the 500 mark on teh stock internals. It's in teh tune and keeping heat out of it.
If you can swing it you might think about doing some cooling mods. Headers also help greatly in evacuating heat from the cylinders.
WIth a centri blower it can be a little leaner in the low rpms before boost starts to come in but as soon as your seeing postive pressure I'd want to see around 11.8 for the A/F
I think 440 is probably fine though. As has been reported around here lately, there are people runing around the 500 mark on teh stock internals. It's in teh tune and keeping heat out of it.
If you can swing it you might think about doing some cooling mods. Headers also help greatly in evacuating heat from the cylinders.
cobraracer46
Banned
Detonation will kill a boosted motor quickly and heat is a factor in detonation, so at the bare minimum, I would get a good radiator like a fluidyne and a custom thermostatically controlled nascar spec engine oil cooler to keep engine temps under control. I would also look into getting an accusump and a canton oil pan.
cobraracer46 said:
If you're going that far you might as well build the engine...
You still didn't address the core problem with cooling the modular motors however.
The drivers side head has no collant passage that leaves the head. So even with all the nice efficient radiators, thermostats and anything else you want to throw at it, the fact is you still have hot coolant that builds up around cylinders 7 and 8. The ONLY way to stop that from happening is the LDC or Apten cooling mod.
He's not pushing insane amounts of power. As long as the stock cooling system is operating like it should be (clean radiator, fans working properly, t-stat functional etc) with the LDC or Apten cooling mod he'll be in good shape.
You don't have to spend 10 grand on re-engineering this engine to achieve good results with placing a blower on a stock engine.
Yes. it works on all modular heads.
What do you guys think about the snow kit helping with cooling? My problem right now is I am having trouble with enough fuel getting to the engine after 5krpms. Now they are going to start diagnostics to see what is up. I bought the aviator fuel pump. I don't know what is up. I feel a little better with the 440ish mark. Thanks guys. I am trying to get the plx250 w/gauge. That will make me feel better.
Jose is giving his up for $320. I can't do it right now. I have to get the car tuned right and then buy that plx and then next month get rear nittos. I had to buy the wife a laptop this month just to compensate.
cobraracer46
Banned
I personally think that the LDC and Apten mod is a waste of time. Like I said, running a good radiator and oil cooler along with an aftercooler will keep temps under control. As a matter a fact, one of the proprietors of Griggs Racing has a daily driven 98 Cobra with a Vortech putting out 10 PSI on a 11 to 1 compression short block running on pump gas and the key to making it all work are the Vortech aftercooler, A really good fluidyne radiator and a very expensive oil cooler. Meth kits are good for drag racing, but not so good for road racing.Torch10th said:
cobraracer46 said:
here we go. Mr. theoretical at it again. For reference before the apten mod, the plugs on cylinders 7 and 8 would read hotter than the rest. After the mod, they are dead even. The mod works and is cheap, no question.
The vortech aftercooler is a pos. it doesn't flow for shit and even with ice, it can only the lower temps so far. An air to air intercooler is by far the way to go.
A good radiator and oil cooler are a good idea, but if the coolant stagnates over two cylinders, they will run hotter.
Johnjib,
If you trust your tuner, I'd go for the extra HP. The blower manufacturer has probably factored a safety margin into your application. I didn't see your boost level. Personally, I'd not go over 8 psi.
Your car looks great...First rate!
If you trust your tuner, I'd go for the extra HP. The blower manufacturer has probably factored a safety margin into your application. I didn't see your boost level. Personally, I'd not go over 8 psi.
Your car looks great...First rate!
Personally I would keep it at or below 430rwhp and the A/F in the high 11's. That should encompass most environmental factors as well as some lead foots. 
I think you should but make your own. Don't buy the 'kits'.
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