Need input on a 01 Cobra engine build 600whp street car.

[Red97tbird]

I'm having the heads rebuilt , they are at the machine shop. What is every one's recommendation on what all I should have done to them? I'm more then likely going to stay with the stock cams. Looking to upgrade the springs to some BTR .500's . New valve guides, was going to have the bowls cleaned up. Anything else I'm missing? Stainless steel valves? I know seals and all , am I good on stock valves or should I upgrade. thanks

 

[Recon]

Had my 4V for my Mach rebuilt at one of my local machine shops. I supplied the crank, and cams, but everything else was done there. Needed new bearings, seals, rod bolts, and repair work on the heads and block, also cleaned everything twice. Cost me around $1400. Engine had 3 spun rod bearings and catastrophic oil contamination. I still need timing components, gasket kit, and modify the 97 Cobra cams to accept the timing components. My boss and I will be assembling the engine. Just an idea on possible repair work.


Pick your poison.

 

[Nightmare302]

I'm having the heads rebuilt , they are at the machine shop. What is every one's recommendation on what all I should have done to them? I'm more then likely going to stay with the stock cams. Looking to upgrade the springs to some BTR .500's . New valve guides, was going to have the bowls cleaned up. Anything else I'm missing? Stainless steel valves? I know seals and all , am I good on stock valves or should I upgrade. thanks

Stock valves are just fine for what you are wanting. No need for oversized valves on this setup.

Quality valve job and opening up the exhaust ID will net the best bang for the buck.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Hell if you have a shop that can deck the heads you can even DIY lap the valves and do new seals yourself for cheap. Does take time tho. I'm going to have to get creative myself when I do my full build as I'm in Europe now...

However, for what you want to do... the cams in the 01 Cobra engine are 200 duration on the intake which is more aggressive than the Mach/Termi cams are. 99 intakes are 202 and 96-98 intakes are 204. If you can get some 96-98 intake cams or even 99s, might want to think about swapping them in. Whatever you do, DEGREE THE CAMS. You'll need the Cloyes cam gears and TFS crank gear. If you search "Gibtec Aluminator Build" on teh Google that thread is basically the forum "bible" for a 4V build.

As for rods and pistons and crank? Stock crank, even a stock GT crank is more than fine for 600+. Stock GT cast crank is substantially lighter than the forged piece too if that matters. Rods? $200 shipped or even less for a set of Boss rods from Tasca. They'll hold 800+. Pistons? Pick your poison. I got a set of 9.5:1 Diamond .020 pistons BNIB for $550 shipped from a FB group. Same deal with the WAP block I got .020 over with a few hours of dyno time from this forum Market. Rings, bearings and small parts get from Jegs/Summit. Same with the Cloyes/TFS gears.

What else... JY JY JY for front covers, cheap low mileage timing parts, misc parts etc... one thing I really miss about the states is all the JYs. I got stuff out of the JY for my cars and a LOT of it is from cars you might not consider. 99-02 Continentals, for example, are amazing for pulling heads, cams and small parts for next to nothing. Heads are 99/01 style C heads, 99s share 99 Cobra 202 duration cams, the timing stuff is all the same and some other stuff is interchangeable as well. 93-98 Mark VIIIs are well known but there are still a lot of them around in yards. If you an find any 03-05 Aviators, especially an 05... good for parts as well. 05 is top notch with the final 05 C head revision and the Aluminator block.

Cliff's notes... 4Vs and 2Vs too are hyper cheap and easy to build because of all the parts but especially the 4V. 4V heads outflow any 2V head and you can get B heads for free, Continental C heads for damn near free and the stock intakes, heads and cams do not need to be modified AT ALL to make big power. Even at like $1200 for a full out shop rebuild of a set of C heads that came loaded with 96-99 cams, that is 1/3 the cost of a set of TFS heads and cams. Why I changed over to 4V.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Google "gibtec aluminator build" if you have not already.

-Stock freshened heads
-Stock 96-99 degreed cams
-Stock intake
-Stock crank
-New Ford OEM hardware (TTY stuff is FINE, cheap and works great)
-Boss rods
-Your choice of piston
-Cobra Engineering dowel pin fix and passenger tensioner fix
-Fuel to support your power level and typical "bolt ons"
-Transmission and full bushing IRS or prepped SRA to handle power
-Power adder
-Really good tune

*Also do the suspension and chassis FIRST if you haven't already. Don't be that guy showing up with a 500-600hp car on stock suspension. Nobody should want to be that guy...

 

[Nightmare302]

Dowel pins and passenger tensioner won't matter much given your hp level. Boss rods will support your goals but I'd use something else above 800. You will need to have a come to jesus talk about your real plans with the car. You don't want to build a motor twice or over build. 600rwhp is very cheap compared to 800 and super cheap compared to 1000 and pennies compared to 1k+. Prices can and will run from 3-4k for a 600rwhp engine build to 30-40k for a 1300+ build.

 

[Red97tbird]

I have bought manely H beam rods with arp 2000 bolts, and forged crank. Getting forged pistons , more then likely manely or gibs. All arp 2000 bolts and king bearings. Bottom end should be pretty good for 800+ hp.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Dowel pins and passenger tensioner won't matter much given your hp level. Boss rods will support your goals but I'd use something else above 800. You will need to have a come to jesus talk about your real plans with the car. You don't want to build a motor twice or over build. 600rwhp is very cheap compared to 800 and super cheap compared to 1000 and pennies compared to 1k+. Prices can and will run from 3-4k for a 600rwhp engine build to 30-40k for a 1300+ build.

I would for sure do those mods at 600-800... that's just me. Seems his build has changed to 800 tho so yeah... definitely will want stronger than Boss rods at 800 even tho ppl do it. But 800hp is like.. yeah over double what the 600hp build would be and for a street car just completely not needed.

I have bought manely H beam rods with arp 2000 bolts, and forged crank. Getting forged pistons , more then likely manely or gibs. All arp 2000 bolts and king bearings. Bottom end should be pretty good for 800+ hp.

What changed for you to want 800hp? Yeah that sounds like the bottom will be ok for that power level. Just be aware that Nightmare302 is spot on, you are going to be spending probably double to get 800hp then what you would to just go 600.

 

[Red97tbird]

Nothing really changed just building it the best I can , so I don't have to worrie about it later if I want to change anything or go for more power. Figure what's a little extra money here and there to make it bullet proof . I not one to cheap on something I'm spending a lot of money on to begin with. I'm sure i'll have 7-10k in the long block when it's all said and done. Then another 2k in fuel system.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Honestly you'd probably spend less money on a new 2018... or a 13/14 Boss or a 15-17 than you would on whatever your car is worth plus the build. 2018 is 500rwhp and a 10 second car with exhaust, slicks and a tune. That's literally it lol.

 

[Red97tbird]

True , but what's the fun in that. I have had my car since it was brand new, 21 years now. Started off as a v6 car. Have already spent a crap load on it. I'll keep Spending money on it till it's the way I want lol. Hell my 98 Jeep is the same way had it 13 years now and it's about to get a LS swap. Wife drives the new car , I drive the play cars.

 

[nfamous]

I have a 01 built for 1500 hp

Sent from my SM-G955U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[nfamous]

Build what ya want enjoy it

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[scottydsntknow]

Yep, I was just throwing it out there. Def not one of those "well I would do this so EVERYONE should" ppl on here lol.

-Any 4V heads
-96-96 cams degreed/advanced
-Stock intake or the blower setup of your choice
-Stock forged Kellog crank
-Manly H beams
-Diamond pistons
-Aluminator block (any 05-up 4.6 block including the Aviator)
-Power adder
-Suspension like cray cray, good fuel, good tune... all the "bolt ons" etc...

As crazy as it sounds... an 800hp 4.6L build with a SN95 is pretty straightforward to the point its almost "cookie cutter".