I need a new clutch ASAP, mine started slipping tonight (25k miles daily driven). not sure what casued it because i wasnt even on it hard (just simply merging into traffic) what is the best clutch for a DAILY DRIVEN car? carmakes about 540 whp
Need Help!
- Thread starter SVTshelby
- Start date
Give Van a call at Revan Racing he should be able to hook you up. I would think long and hard about what the car will be used for. Will you be adding anymore HP to it anytime soon. Might take it to the strip one day. Van can get you hooked up.
should i be concerned about driving the car until its replaced? as long as i keep it out of boost it doesnt slip...yet. and the car will eventually have more power but for time being it wont see over 600 wheel and very VERY little (2x a year) will the car see actual track use. it does however get driven on the street...umm enthusuastically? haha
Van@RevanRacing
Active Member
Give me a call in the morning so we can get a SPEC clutch working for you. I've got a lot of customers running SPEC and yes there is a difference and why it costs more.
Give me a shout and I'll walk you through the differences and see if we can get something moving quickly for you.
I look forward to speaking with you.
Van
Revan Racing, Inc.
"The kind of service you should expect"
561-445-7702
[email protected]
You might have the clutch flywheel TSB problem. Its a common problem.
Flywheel is faulty and warps and also ruins the clutch.
If your car is hard to put into gear as far as the shifter with grinding... you may also have damaged synros in your tranny.
If this is the case you are going to have to take it to the dealership to have the tranny fixed.
If no grinding still make sure you replace the flywheel, clutch, and slave cylinder.
Flywheel is faulty and warps and also ruins the clutch.
If your car is hard to put into gear as far as the shifter with grinding... you may also have damaged synros in your tranny.
If this is the case you are going to have to take it to the dealership to have the tranny fixed.
If no grinding still make sure you replace the flywheel, clutch, and slave cylinder.
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Check if your car is still under bumper to bumper warranty. Yes, the powertrain warranty SHOULD cover it, but it will be much easier to get it replaced under warranty if it's within the 3yr/36,000mi. They will have really no excuse if it is. If your still under warranty, print out the most recent revision of the Clutch/Flywheel TSB and bring it to the service manager. Don't say your clutch is toast, they might assume it's been abused and that the clutch is a wear item and not covered under warranty, regardless of how prevalent this issue is. Don't even mention the word clutch. Just tell them that your car is exhibiting the symptoms described by the TSB. The service manager should take it for a ride and know something is very wrong. He should be well aware of this problem also, unless they wanna play stupid. I had to battle hard with my service department to get the TSB performed under warranty and I was still under the full 3yr warranty. Good luck and keep us updated.
No offense to Van but you sell SPEC so of course you are going to suggest SPEC. It's just a matter of which SPEC unit you are suggesting correct? Personally I've never liked a single SPEC clutch I've driven/rode in as a street car. They work great in race cars where their on/off is not an issue. Unless SPEC has really changed things around with some of their new stuff I rarely recommend them. I love the McLoeds for street cars but it's all personal preference. I highly recommend driving/riding in someone else's car and get the construction details of the clutch to detail drivability. You can pick any of them but give everyone a fair shake and is best for your situation.
I like my spec BUT my car is more race orientated.. 720 to the wheels slicks and a cage ....... I know the P trim won't fail. And it's made of some high quality stuff plus it being rebuildable is a big plus.... 500-600+labor beats a new clutch+labor anyday
If it was a street car then I would go for the RXT or RST only because the clucth pedal would be soft and the engagement would be as smooth as a Honda.
But also look at all the guys with 800-1200hp or that are in the 9's...... What clutch do they run without a issue ??? Cough cough P-trim cough
If it was a street car then I would go for the RXT or RST only because the clucth pedal would be soft and the engagement would be as smooth as a Honda.
But also look at all the guys with 800-1200hp or that are in the 9's...... What clutch do they run without a issue ??? Cough cough P-trim cough
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^^^
They also run the McLeod RXT without issue also in the 9sec GT500s.
The question was for a STREET car hence drivability is number one and should base decision off that. There are a whole slew of options. Even outside of the McLoed/SPEC battle in here. Also have ford/ram/centerforce/ACT/Fidanza etc. Weigh your options carefully.
They also run the McLeod RXT without issue also in the 9sec GT500s.
The question was for a STREET car hence drivability is number one and should base decision off that. There are a whole slew of options. Even outside of the McLoed/SPEC battle in here. Also have ford/ram/centerforce/ACT/Fidanza etc. Weigh your options carefully.
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If you plan to upgrade power, spend a few extra $$ and get the RXT over the RST. It is basically the same but stronger. I could not be happier with the feel and performance. It is so much nicer than the stock clutch.
This video on the McLeod clutch shows the difference between the RST and RXT:
[youtube_browser]uGof52H-Azg[/youtube_browser]
[youtube_browser]uGof52H-Azg[/youtube_browser]
Who is running 9's on the RXT besides lethal in a GT500
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Van@RevanRacing
Active Member
None taken. I only sell products that I have personally used and/or my customers have used with success. Thus the reason why I wanted to have a discussion with the OP and explain some of the differences in product choices available and some of the differences the OP could expect from a manufacturing stand point compared to the way SPEC builds their product.
I can drive my P-Trim on the road just fine without an "on/off" feel. All clutches are going to have different aspects. I have a number of customers running the P-Trim on the street and then at the the track. Does it take a little getting used to? Sure. Any new clutch or aftermarket clutch is going to feel different initially and need some break in miles.
I have the rxt from mcleod and love it. 99% street use and smooth as silk.
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