need help with vortech install

[TXSVT1]

calling all vortech/Paxton racers. I just bought my vortech kit nib along with my boss intake manifold. i'am going to install it in the next 2 weeks. i'am wondering what I would need to modify on my car for the install. do I have to modify my fan? if so what would I need to do to it? is there any other fan I can buy to avoid modding my own. also i'am stuck between buying the programmable bap or non-programmable. what are the pros and cons. i'am not looking to do that much modding to it except the vortech v3, x-pipe, gt500 single tips mufflers, boss im, and probably a torque conveter in the future so not sure if it changes on which bap I need to get.
thanks.

 

[justinsstang]

The vortech instructions explain very clearly how to modify everything that you need to modify. You'll have to modify coolant hoses, a shit ton of stuff on the fan shroud, and maybe a couple small other things that I don't remember.

Programmable or non-programmable doesn't matter. Everyone always turns it to the max if it's programmable. I have a KB 20 amp and don't even have the controller hooked up. I just twisted the wires together and installed it without it so it's always fully on. I recommend the JMS 24v if you want to spend the money, if not just get a kenne bell 20v like I did. You usually can find them used all day. You'll need the bap before you can start tuning it, so not sure why you'd install the kit in 2 days if you don't have a bap yet (have to wait on shipping...) unless it's not your DD.

Install is easy, just follow the instructions and pay attention to the fan shroud modification, make sure you don't cut extra stuff off that isn't supposed to be cut such as around where the harness plugs in, but cut the hell out of the bottom where the metal air dams hook up so you for sure have enough room for the piping (you'll see what I mean with metal air dams when you get to it).

Take your time, there's really not much you need to know outside of the instructions other than that you need to tighten all of the hose clamps with a vengeance. I honestly took an impact wrench to all of my clamps except for one that I missed and left hand tightened, and that one blew off on my first 7k rpm pull while tuning, so I impacted that one too. No problems since. Good luck with the install.

Edit: On a side note, I'd go ahead and go to autozone and get a new coolant drain plug. My car with 6k miles had that crappy oem coolant plug break within the first couple turns trying to loosen it. It's easier to just get it and replace it now than have it break as soon as you get on the ground and try to start the install. Googling after mine broke returned that many people have this problem and just got the one from autozone that doesn't break. Just something to think about. I was pretty annoyed when mine broke. Plus having to loosen a drain plug with an allen key was rather annoying anyways. So worth having the one you can turn with your hand.

 

[AfricanSnowOwl]

The only thing the instructions don't talk about is wiring the BAP in, but a quick google search will give you everything you need and more.

 

[4VFTW]

you will be cutting the tranny lines as well , but that is also covered in the instructions

 

[Aaron@JPCRacing]

Typically we only use the non programmable BAP.