Need help identifying parts

[Maxpowers]

I bought a GT500 off a car lot. Mods are unknown. The car runs perfect. Need some help figuring things out before I go for a tune.

It's a 2011. Here's a link to the album of pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/NThlM

Questions I have:
1) Is that a 2.6 Pulley? Are there markings someplace to be sure? Looks to me like the Metco 2.6.

2) Which JLT intake is that?

3) Is that the stock throttle body?

4) The lower pulley (+ other mods) should put the car at how much psi? How much power should it have?

5) Looks like the exhaust is stock except for the mufflers. Thinking about knocking out the cats before the tune.

I'd appreciate any help. The car was hitting about 13 psi, then the belt started slipping. With this combo of mods, what belt size do I need?

Pictures to come. I'm waiting for a new pad before I polish the car.

 

[Catmonkey]

1) Is that a 2.6 Pulley? Are there markings someplace to be sure? Looks to me like the Metco 2.6.

It looks like a Metco to me too. It could be a 2.8". Relationship to the idler pulley makes it look larger than a 2.6", but I could be wrong. I'm not aware of markings to distinguish between pulleys.

2) Which JLT intake is that?

Looks like the 123mm to me.

3) Is that the stock throttle body?

Appears to be.

4) The lower pulley (+ other mods) should put the car at how much psi? How much power should it have?

It's an Innovator's West. Not sure if that's a 10% or 15% lower. The 15% requires some clearance of the crank position sensor, so you might look there for any grinding marks. Not knowing the exact components, it's hard to say how much boost.

5) Looks like the exhaust is stock except for the mufflers. Thinking about knocking out the cats before the tune.

With muffler deletes, it will be incredibly loud without cats. At the cost of having to repurchase a catted mid-pipe, consider someone's off-road H pipe instead. You may go running back to the catted pipe.

I'd appreciate any help. The car was hitting about 13 psi, then the belt started slipping. With this combo of mods, what belt size do I need?

I'm not sure on the belt size, but all the major vendors have sizing charts for different combos. You've got pretty good belt wrap with that idler. Make sure it's not it's not the clutch slipping. The gauge is not a real analog guage. It imputes boost based on PCM parameters. If you want to know your actual boost, install an aftermarket gauge. Do not rely on the factory gauge.

 

[Maxpowers]

With muffler deletes, it will be incredibly loud without cats. At the cost of having to repurchase a catted mid-pipe, consider someone's off-road H pipe instead. You may go running back to the catted pipe.

That's a great idea. I'll start looking.

Make sure it's not it's not the clutch slipping

Shit. Didn't even come to mind. I really don't think so though. The revs aren't going up. Wouldn't the boost still hit hard? It hit about 13, then dropped to 10. Haven't pushed it much because I want to get it tuned first.

 

[brian98svtsnake]

Did the car come with a hand held tuner? With all those mods I would hope so and if not you should've brought that up. I got my dealership to pay for a hand held tuner because I had a metco 2.6 and a few other small mods.

 

[Catmonkey]

Shit. Didn't even come to mind. I really don't think so though. The revs aren't going up. Wouldn't the boost still hit hard? It hit about 13, then dropped to 10. Haven't pushed it much because I want to get it tuned first.

Could be heat soak too. One of the better upgrades for these cars is a fan-cooled heat exchanger. When the downstream air temps rise, like when you're under boost, the PCM is programmed to start pulling timing to save the engine. If you're running a 15% lower on the stock blower, you're generating a lot of heat.

 

[Maxpowers]

Did the car come with a hand held tuner? With all those mods I would hope so and if not you should've brought that up. I got my dealership to pay for a hand held tuner because I had a metco 2.6 and a few other small mods.

No. It did not come with a tuner, but I was able to get the price down by using the "dyno tune" card. Aka: I need it to be $500 lower to get it tuned.

Could be heat soak too. One of the better upgrades for these cars is a fan-cooled heat exchanger. When the downstream air temps rise, like when you're under boost, the PCM is programmed to start pulling timing to save the engine. If you're running a 15% lower on the stock blower, you're generating a lot of heat.

That thought was in the back of my mind. I haven't notice a he, but haven't torn it apart much to look.

 

[einehund]

The 10% IW lower pulley needs to have that crank sensor ground down as well, so that isn't a way to tell the difference between the 10% and 15%.

 

[Maxpowers]

The 10% IW lower pulley needs to have that crank sensor ground down as well, so that isn't a way to tell the difference between the 10% and 15%.

Ok. I appreciate you're help so far.

Are most guys using the hand held tuners, or getting a dyno tune? I see the Lund tune is being thrown around in the hand held now.

 

[einehund]

I have a Lund tune with the mods in my sig. I like it because when I get my new intake and midpipe, all it is is an updated tune emailed to me. No costs for tune revisions unless I swap out my supercharger or do cams or something like that. All bolt ons are covered.

 

[michael kellam]

Ok. I appreciate you're help so far.

Are most guys using the hand held tuners, or getting a dyno tune? I see the Lund tune is being thrown around in the hand held now.

the handheld is the application to load the tune file. at some point all of the tunes from anyone are originated on a dyno.


safe bet is a tune review. you will be aquiring some sort of hand held soon

 

[Catmonkey]

The only way to load a tune is with a hand held flash device. A dyno tune is likely to sell you the flash tool too, since it's the only way to store your stock tune. Speaking of whick, if you car did not come with a hand held flash device, you don't know if it was flashed to stock or if came with a tune already loaded. In either case, you have a predicament. There is nothing wrong with a mail order tune from a reputable tuner that specializes in these cars lke VMP or Lund. For peace of mind, you can datalog your car with one of the flash devices for further refining of the tune without having to visit a dyno. Be careful on dyno tunes too. There are a lot of tooners out there that don't understand the strategies in these PCMs.

 

[Maxpowers]

Speaking of whick, if you car did not come with a hand held flash device, you don't know if it was flashed to stock or if came with a tune already loaded...

Exaclty my issue. I can't beat on it without knowing if it's tuned. No clue on mods either, other than what I can see.

I called the tuner I plan on going to. He uses a remote Lund tune with his dyno. He recommeneded an upgraded billet tensioner prior to getting the tune. He said he's seen the stock fail several times with the upgraded lower. You thoughts?

As for the belt slip..... I am not a smart man.....I never turned off the traction control. I didn't think it would spin at the top of 3rd gear. I actually only had it happen once on the way home, and didn't punch it again for fear of not making it home.

Did two pulls to make sure, and it held boost fine in 3rd and up. Next drive will be to the shop for a tune.