NEED HELP! Car died and won't start!

anc2514

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I was WOT in 3rd only to about 4500 rpms or so, shifted to 6th and was going about 90ish, slowed down, downshifted to 5th, tried to apply throttle and got no response, car eventually died and I had to coast into an Oreilly's, where she sits now. She won't start, just turns over and over and over. I had the guy try and pull codes on it and nothing showed up.

Could it be the spark plugs? I have a hopping sensation when the motor is cold, if i give it too much gas...

Any help is appreciated.

Andrew
 

Mystic03

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hopping situation sounds like your computer is shutting down cylinders to prevent damage..just like it does when it starts to overheat, what are your modds?
 

anc2514

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KB 2.2
boost-a-pump
LT headers
3" mac h pipe and cat-back
MAFia
CAI
62# injectors

The hopping was indeed the spark plugs, from a previous post. A few others mods, but too early to remember.
 

gtmustang00

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maybe the fuel pump over heated and crapped out? Whats the fuel pressure while cranking?
 

plan b

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Take the intake tube apart and see if the maf is dirty or a piece of debris is lodged in it. This happened to me once, a little paint chip from my cai lodged in the maf sensor. Removed intake tube, removed paint chip, put back together and it started right up.
 

anc2514

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Thanks guys. I also found a post where a guy was having the same problem but he had a FRPS code, which I dont, but I am going to check that anyways as my car is acting exactly as he described minus the code.
 

anc2514

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OK, it was the fuel pump fuse. What would cause that to blow? Is the boost-a-pump on the same fuse as the in tank fuel pump? If so, would jumping up one size fuse to a 25amp solve it?
 

gtmustang00

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Something caused the fuse to blow, find out what shorted it out first, then replace the fuse. If you add a fuse that is rated higher than the wire is supported for, that could cause the wire to melt and start a fire if it gets shorted. A fuse is just a circuit protector.
 

anc2514

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I replaced the fuse with the correct one and repeated the trial that caused it to blow the first time, only this time it didn't blow. Should i still be worried?
 

Oxford Snake

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Any idea what your fuel pump duty cycle is? Something obviously was drawing too much current.
 
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anc2514

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I have a boost-a-pump could that cause it? I have no idea what the duty cycle is, its a stock fuel pump with a boost-a-pump.
 

svtsilversnake

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Here is what happened your stock pumps overheated causing them to dray more amps to run and in tur poped a fuse. The culprit is the boost a pump with stock pumps.
 

anc2514

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Here is what happened your stock pumps overheated causing them to dray more amps to run and in tur poped a fuse. The culprit is the boost a pump with stock pumps.


Sweet, thanks for the info. Is the solution to replace the stock fuel pumps? If so, what would you recommend?
 

xenodragon

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Here is what happened your stock pumps overheated causing them to dray more amps to run and in tur poped a fuse. The culprit is the boost a pump with stock pumps.

Not to hijack but do you think the BAP would cause the stock pumps to overheat on just a ported blower?
 

ClubVenom1

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^A ported eaton will not cause the stock pumps w/BAP to overheat and pop a fuse unless you have a bad ground or corrosion in the electrical wires/connections. The duty cycle of the pumps won't come close to maximum, but on a twin screw your gettin there.

Try the wire upgrade if you don't already have it done with the BAP. Increasing the size of the power draw wire from stock size to 10 gauge or 8 gauge will help with the amp draw and overheating of the pumps. The how-to area on this forum will show you how to do it. Cheap fix if you ask me, and it works. I believe LETHAL sells the kit also.
 

03CobraKB

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You probably need the FRPS ($60) replaced and new spark plugs. Do you smell fuel when it tries to start? There's a ton on this site about the FRPS failing, search with FRPS in your search.
 

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