Need detail help/PC 7424 pad help.....

[firebird1999us]

I'm probably going to get Poorboys SSR 2.5 and SSr1 for application with a Porter Cable 7424 but want to make sure I don't use pads that are too harsh. Also how does Poorboys compar to Klasse All In One?

PAINT CONDITION: I have some light swirls, scratches, water etching/spots etc...nothing too serious as my finish has always been maintained the car always kept in the garage. It's a 2003 Dark Shadow Grey mach 1 by the way.

My process was probably going to go something like this:

1-wash with NXT
2-Clay with Sonus clay kit
3-Klasse AIO (although this might be redundant with the SSR)
4-Poorboys SSR2.5 followed by SSR1
5-Poorboys EXP Sealant
6-Probably P21S to top it off

It's also notworthy that I'm a former Zaino user and am trying something new to remove the scratches/ seal the pain. The car never see's rain and is only driven on weekends so durability is not really an issue either.

Any input would be appreciated guys! :beer:

Thanks,
Chris

 

[trance_in_miami]

Sounds good...But I myself have wondered why people waste money on ( ssr 1 ) I mean wouldnt it be better to keep two strong scratch removers. I just think ssr 1 is a waste of money. I would prefer to get two ssr 2.5.. But about your set up. it sounds good. :thumbsup: . Im thinking on trying Adams scratch remover. All of his products have given me Superior Results... :beer:

 

[spree]

It really depends on the condition of your paint. If you're going to use SSR2.5 with a cutting pad, I'd recommend following that up with SSR1 on a polishing pad.

 

[firebird1999us]

It really depends on the condition of your paint. If you're going to use SSR2.5 with a cutting pad, I'd recommend following that up with SSR1 on a polishing pad.

Trance in Miami -- I wanted to get the SSR 1 because I'm honestll not farmiliar enough with swirl/scratch removing products to know how powerful of a product to use yet. I'm probably going to start with the SSR1 as my paint is really in great condition and to kind of get a feel for it. ;-)

Spree when you say cutting and finishing how does that correspond with the colors of the pads?

I'm probably going to get a PC with the Sonus pad kit or the kit from over at Autogeek.

I really appreciate the input guys.
Thanks,
Chris

 

[Juiced-03]

Sounds like you have a great method right there! One suggestion though, if you have to use the AIO, I would use it after the SSR polishes. The AIO will remove any oils that the SSR's may have left behind and will leave a squeaky clean surface for the EX-P. Actually, you could get by without the AIO all together. But definitely use it after the SSR's if you decide to use it.

 

[Juiced-03]

Sounds good...But I myself have wondered why people waste money on ( ssr 1 ) I mean wouldnt it be better to keep two strong scratch removers. I just think ssr 1 is a waste of money. I would prefer to get two ssr 2.5.. But about your set up. it sounds good. :thumbsup: . Im thinking on trying Adams scratch remover. All of his products have given me Superior Results... :beer:

Sometimes (especially with a PC) you can't break 2.5 down enough to get rid of the haze it can leave on darker colors. The SSR 1 will remove that haze and get rid of any micro scratches that the cutting pad left behind. A cutting pad will leave some scratches, so it is always a good idea to follow up with a LESS aggressive polish and a LESS aggressive pad.

:thumbsup:

 

[spree]

Spree when you say cutting and finishing how does that correspond with the colors of the pads?

There is no universal color coding system with pads. There are three ways to tell which pads are for what...1) check out the website for whoever you bought them from, and see what color pads do what 2) feel the pad with your hand. The hardest foam pad will be your cutting pad, and the softest foam will be your finishing pad and 3) sometimes they are labeled on the back of the pad where the velcro is at (I know meg's labels them).

 

[trance_in_miami]

:idea: I understand that. BUt after using ssr 2.5 not all the scratches are removed. Infact it took me 45 minutes to do my car with a cutting Orange Sonus pad.. and ony 60% of the scratches were removed. But i was still impressed. Now if i were to buy the ssr 1. I wouldnt'e be as helpfull becasue the 2.5 helped my remove 60% while the ssr1 would probably be much less effective. Even if i used a diffrent pad other than a cutting pad. And yes i beleive the cuting pad can leave micro scratches but, The vanilla Moose indicates it can removes minor scratches. SO therefore i would use that. Instaed of having to add another step to add srr1. I know vm isnt a scratch remover but i would help substitue for adding the ssr1 which is probably as effective and will add shine. Atleast this is what i beleive.

 

[Juiced-03]

:idea: I understand that. BUt after using ssr 2.5 not all the scratches are removed. Infact it took me 45 minutes to do my car with a cutting Orange Sonus pad.. and ony 60% of the scratches were removed. But i was still impressed.

That's because you are using a PC. You could do your whole car in half the time with a rotary buffer and have 99% of the scratches gone. I only use the PC to apply sealants or glazes. My polishing always gets done with a rotary. I just dont see how you guys can spend hours polishing with a PC for the results it produces. My clear coat is hard enough and sometimes I have a tough time with my rotary polishing out the swirls. I could only imagine the time it would take with a PC

 

[firebird1999us]

What is a good rotary to check out Juiced?

Chris

 

[cobravenom39]

What is a good rotary to check out Juiced?

Chris

BE CAREFUL.

I have used a rotary before and have a lot of experience with it, and I still get scared using it. Stick with the PC. Its better to take longer with the PC than Fing the paint up and taking that long shameful drive the body shop!

 

[Juiced-03]

BE CAREFUL.

I have used a rotary before and have a lot of experience with it, and I still get scared using it. Stick with the PC. Its better to take longer with the PC than Fing the paint up and taking that long shameful drive the body shop!

Good point. A rotary is NOT for the beginner detailer. I only recommended it because I am skilled with it and it is second nature to me. When I first used it I burned some panels. Luckily I worked for a dealership that had an in house paint shop so it didnt matter. I dont know anyone who has learned on a rotary and not made an error. If you get one, practice on a car that you wouldnt care about messing up. Or go to a junkyard and buy an old hood that still has OK paint.

I use a Dewalt rotary.

 

[Scott P]

Sounds good...But I myself have wondered why people waste money on ( ssr 1 ) I mean wouldnt it be better to keep two strong scratch removers. I just think ssr 1 is a waste of money. I would prefer to get two ssr 2.5.. But about your set up. it sounds good. :thumbsup: . Im thinking on trying Adams scratch remover. All of his products have given me Superior Results... :beer:

You should always go with the least aggressive solution when working on your car's paint. SSR1 is a fantastic final polish that people use to get any remaining hazing from SSR2 or SSR2.5. Some people go straight to the last step product from SR2 or SSR2.5. That is usually good enough, but I always like to finish with SSR1 to bring out the extra step.

Everyone has different standards for "good" and "good enough". Even different colors will yield different results. You may not need to follow p SSR2.5 on a white car, but ona black car, the SSR1 will make it look that much better.

 

[firebird1999us]

BE CAREFUL.

I have used a rotary before and have a lot of experience with it, and I still get scared using it. Stick with the PC. Its better to take longer with the PC than Fing the paint up and taking that long shameful drive the body shop!

Thanks for the advice Cobravenom39 -- you kind of confirmed what I was thinking. I'm no pro and am a little reluctant to go with anything other than hand polishing. But there's really no reasonable way to remove swirls, etching, and surface marring by hand so PC it is.

Chris