[Near finished project]Do my numbers make sense or is there something missing?

[tonto674]

Hi guys! So the car:

04 mustang GT vortech V-2 with a 2.7in pulley
Heads: Trickflow 44cc 2v
Custom cams Bullet Cams: I can get numbers if it matters
Cobra crank and pistons
8 rib serpentine belt
Heavy duty A2W intercooler, I do not have heat issues( can go into this if it matters).
Fuel twin ford gt pumps with a kenne bell BAP and all necessary wiring mods.
I still have the stock bypass valve that comes with the 3.33 pulley.

I just ran it on a Dynojet today and produced 454 rwhp/432 ft tq
AFR hangs right at the 12 mark

Is this as good as it gets? I don't know max boost I have enough trouble looking at the boost gauge while smashing the throttle.

Honestly, I love it but I see posts of other guys that are getting 590ish rwhp etc. with similar setups.

My compression is perfect and the car is more than enough to kill me. But...I just got to know is it done or did I miss something. Thanks for reading. Cheers!

 

[WhiteFaleen2001]

That does seem a little low but I do know the V3 superchargers are going to be slightly more efficient then the V-2 series. Anyways, I have a number of questions for you but first, can we see your dyno graph?

Also what do you mean when you said that you were smashing the throttle and that YOU ran it on a dynojet? Did you self tune this car or did someone else tune it? Was it a mail order tune?

What fuel are you running? What gears does the car have? What RPM are you reaching when you hit 454 rwhp? What gear was it in while running this test?

When you say you have the stock bypass valve...aren't there two bypass valves with the 3.33 and aftercooler setup? I would suggest upgrading to a Vortech Maxflow Race Bypass Valve or something similar.


You can also check out this thread for other centrifugal pulley/boost combinations.

They will ask the following:
1. 2V or 4V ( List what type of Heads, B-heads, C-heads, TFS, Stoke etc)
2. Type of Blower
3. Big Bore/Stroker/ Compression
4. Ported Heads?
5. What Cams?
6. What intake? (aftermarket, Ported, Ported Short Runner, etc)
7. Intercooled(A/A) or Aftercooled or NO Cooler?
8. Exhaust Combo?
9. Pulley Combo (blower pulley size, crank pulley size) and belt length if you have it or remember
10. Amount of Boost you are seeing at X RPM.
11. Powerpipe?
12. HP/TQ

My post is #239.
1. 2V TF 44CC Heads
2. Vortech V3-Si
3. MMR 4.6 Stroker Mod 900s (5.0) 9:1 Compression
4. No: Standard TF 44 CC Heads
5. Comp Cams Stage 2
6. Stock (my current limiting factor according to my tuner)
7. Aftercooled
8. Stock manifolds, Mac Prochamber and Borla S-Style Catback
9. 3.33 and not sure on belt size
10. 12lbs at 6700 (although I am not making any more power at 6700 than 6100 and I think 6100 is 7lbs of boost)
11. Yes
12. I am running 3.90 gears
13. 91 Octane
14. 486/419 on dynojet
15. Air Fuel is 11.5 (+/- .1) the entire way

My car was making 480RWHP at 6100 RPMs at roughly 8lbs of boost. At 6700 RPMs, my car was making only a few horsepower more at 12lbs of boost. My tuner informed me that my PI intake manifold was maxing out above 6000 RPMs. Since then, I have changed out my manifolds to BBK shortys, I have installed a Trickflow 2v Streetburner intake, and have swapped out my crank pulley for an IW 15% OD pulley. I am just waiting on him to fit me in to get retuned.

 

[Stanger00]

I have a similar deal and I'm in on the thread mentioned above.

Need to know what RPM your hitting max horsepower and which V2 unit you have.

I had my V2-S turned into and Si trim with a 3.1" pulley. I spin my 9.5-1 compression 2 valve to 7k rpms and it has 44cc TFS heads with TFS cams.

Like whitesaleen I hit 600hp at 6k rpms and it moves up to 614 by 6800 and at 6800 rpms I'm at 16lbs of boost. I am being limited by my stock PI manifold.

I also run long tubes and a 10% OD crank.


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[tonto674]

Dyno Sheet. Each time I have dynoed I keep forgetting to ask them to check for the max PSI, So I just looked at it when I am at around 4000+ rpms. Really hard to stare at the PSI gauge while being near redline.

Tuning was done by Fast Specialties out of Washington, overall pleased with the work. This isn't meant to rag on them and they should always be considered for tuning work if you are in the area.

I am running 92 octane.

Previous owner installed aftermarket gears but I don't know which exactly they are are, using the calculators it is anywhere from 2.79-4.10, most likely the 2.79s.

Vortech just hit me up about upgrading to the Vortech Maxflow Race Bypass Valve and I will do.

Honestly, you are producing some great numbers but I see that mine isn't as bad as I thought.

 

[tonto674]

Also it is a V-2 S Vortech.

 

[Stanger00]

Looking at that graph the fuel is going lean up top and the graph is pretty wavy. A 2.7" pulley is pretty small so you may have some belt slip.

What timing cover are you running? There are two kinds the one where a single bolt tensioner is used or one that a 3 bolt tensioner bolts on. The single bolts run from 2000-2004 2 valves and the 3 bolts run on 96-99 2 valves.

This will help with belt length for a pulley that small and to figure out if you're experiencing belt slip.

Rear gears are 3.27 factory and 3.55, 3.73, 3.9 and 4.1 for aftermarket. Spin the wheel one rotation and count how turns the driveshaft turns and you will know your rear gear ratio.

If you have a blow thru MAF (maf located before throttle body and after A/W cooler) then you can look into hooking up a BOV instead of a bypass. I had the vortech mini race bypass but they don't hold up too well with operating boost of 15psi and switched to a Tial 50mm.




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[tonto674]

So I did have horrible belt slip when I was a 6 rib. I was only getting 12 psi on a 2.62, so I upgraded to the 8 rib set up and got the smallest pulley vortech offered with 8 ribs which was a 2.7.

###I never tuned it after doing this 6 to 8 rib upgrade but did get it dyno pulled to see what my AFRs where doing, the results from that are posted above.###

I have the 2000+ timing cover. My MAF sensor is located by the air intake but I relocated the IAT sensor to after the A/W cooler.

I will do the wheel turn thing and update.

I guess the question we are getting to is should I be retuning my car?

Also Stanger00, I am looking at your set up and I feel I am a close match to what you have so any advice you can give is gold right now. I would love to be somewhere close to the numbers you are producing. I have already put a lot of money into getting to there and I am too invested to quit. Please help me as much as possible.

 

[WhiteFaleen2001]

I am unable to see the image you linked so I can't comment on the graph.

If your fuel is going lean though, depending how much, that may be enough reason to get retuned, or at the very least, stay out of that rpm range.

Just like I am with the 91 octane, I would expect your numbers to be less with 92 octane when compared to a lot of other people that are running 93 or higher.

If you have higher gears (3.90s or 4.10s) your numbers will be lower than someone with 3.73 or 3.55 gears.

How did you relocate the IAT after the A/W cooler? Did you just drill out a hole and install a grommet/plug for the IAT?

I did that and the boost was just pushing the sensor out of the grommet so I ended up buying a lightning threaded IAT sensor and a bung. I had a friend weld the bung to the elbow (from A/W cooler to Throttle Body) and screwed in the IAT sensor.