Nations alternator

mark23svt

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Hey guys just wanted to ask just installed new nations alternator and new battery. My old set up would start at 13.9 but drop after 10 min with only radio and lights on to 12ish. Right now first start with new parts it idled at 13.6 start held at that but with ac and lights or went to 13.2. I haven’t adjusted anything or played with the voltage just wanted to ask before messing with higher ins the voltage.
 

mark23svt

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It's going to drop under load. Especially at idle. That's normal. I'd bump it to 14.5 personally.
Ok cool I was just wondering how it comes from nations. But if that’s normal then now I can bump it up. Just was weird to me since the autozone one would turn on and be high 13’s. I think my dumbass was expecting for it to be at 14’s. But tomorrow I’ll move it see if it holds.
 

Vinnie_B

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The actual output voltage produced by the alternator will vary depending on temperature and load, but will typically be about 1-1/2 to 2 volts higher than battery voltage. At idle, most charging systems will produce 13.8 to 14.3 volts with no lights or accessories on (although some may charge at a slightly higher voltage depending on temperature, engine RPM, type of battery, and the battery's state of charge)




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mark23svt

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The actual output voltage produced by the alternator will vary depending on temperature and load, but will typically be about 1-1/2 to 2 volts higher than battery voltage. At idle, most charging systems will produce 13.8 to 14.3 volts with no lights or accessories on (although some may charge at a slightly higher voltage depending on temperature, engine RPM, type of battery, and the battery's state of charge)




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I need to buy a battery voltage meter. This is just from my X4 but I understand. They said this battery was better but you know how autozone goes (atleast down here).
 

01yellercobra

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IIRC there's usually about a .5vdc difference between what the battery sees and what the OBDII reports. So you might be in the mid 14 range already.
 

mark23svt

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I've tested this years ago and mine were exactly the same.

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Just wanted to say I followed your post on how to so thank you for that post. Did yours first read mid 13’s then you messed with the voltage? Thanks in advance.
 

mark23svt

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Just adjusted it to 14.6-14.1 with everything on but someone told me that’s too high and my battery will get hot. Just been chasing a studder/bog issue after return fuel stem and new motor on low rpm.
 

Bdubbs

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Just wanted to say I followed your post on how to so thank you for that post. Did yours first read mid 13’s then you messed with the voltage? Thanks in advance.
Yup I've adjusted mine up. I'm usually seeing 14.2-14.5 range. Been running it like this for years.

I wouldn't believe everything people are saying about cooking your battery. My 19 350 reads about the same voltage.

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Vinnie_B

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This is what my VBAT looks like during a summer cruise. Avg 14.01 volts this particular day during last summer. Never no issues!

VBAT.jpg


2013 Shelby GT500 Wide Body Super Snake CSM:13SS0008 870 HP/ 765 RWHP
 
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mark23svt

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Are you running a dead head or flow through set up?
I know this is so bad but I have to ask the tuner I sent him my car and a new engine plus the fore fuel system level 1 but I can’t find where he put the regulator. On one of the pics it looks like it’s inside the fender.
 

mark23svt

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Are you running a dead head or flow through set up?
I know this is so bad but I have to ask the tuner I sent him my car and a new engine plus the fore fuel system level 1 but I can’t find where he put the regulator. On one of the pics it looks like it’s inside the fender
Yup I've adjusted mine up. I'm usually seeing 14.2-14.5 range. Been running it like this for years.

I wouldn't believe everything people are saying about cooking your battery. My 19 350 reads about the same voltage.

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nice ok this is where I’m at right now from this morning the car out.
 

mark23svt

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So update guys I guess my studdering/bogging issue was due to low voltage. Car felt wayyyy better. Still has a very light sluggish feel but no bogging. It’s more like for a split second the car wakes up. But overall car is way better just the idle is a bit off but I’m happy with that for now. I just have to re-check my connections. Got to the light and the battery light came on, volts went to 11.8 then as soon as I took off went back to normal and hasn’t done it since.
 

Bdubbs

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So update guys I guess my studdering/bogging issue was due to low voltage. Car felt wayyyy better. Still has a very light sluggish feel but no bogging. It’s more like for a split second the car wakes up. But overall car is way better just the idle is a bit off but I’m happy with that for now. I just have to re-check my connections. Got to the light and the battery light came on, volts went to 11.8 then as soon as I took off went back to normal and hasn’t done it since.
So the voltage dropped to 11.8 only once? The only time my voltage drops a little is doing a full gear wot pull . And then it only drops to mid 13's.

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Vinnie_B

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So update guys I guess my studdering/bogging issue was due to low voltage. Car felt wayyyy better. Still has a very light sluggish feel but no bogging. It’s more like for a split second the car wakes up. But overall car is way better just the idle is a bit off but I’m happy with that for now. I just have to re-check my connections. Got to the light and the battery light came on, volts went to 11.8 then as soon as I took off went back to normal and hasn’t done it since.
Check your grounds and make sure there clean and tight. If it happens anymore you might want to do a voltage drop test on your cables and make sure your alternator is grounded good. A bad cable will generally be warmer than normal.


Voltage Drop Test Procedure:
When there is a suspected charging system problem (with or without a charge indicator light on), simply follow these steps to measure the voltage drop of the insulated (power-side) charging circuit.


STEP 1 Start the engine and run it at a fast idle (about 2,000 engine RPM).

STEP 2 Turn on the headlights to ensure an electrical load on the charging system.

STEP 3 Using any voltmeter set to read DC volts, connect the positive test lead (red) to the output terminal of the alternator. Attach the negative test lead (black) to the positive post of the battery.



The results should be interpreted as follows:

If there is less than a 0.4 volt (400 millivolts) reading, then all wiring and connections are satisfactory.

If the voltmeter reads higher than 0.4 volt, there is excessive resistance (voltage drop) between the alternator output terminal and the positive terminal of the battery.

If the voltmeter reads battery voltage (or close to battery voltage), there is an open circuit between the battery and the alternator output terminal.

To determine whether the alternator is correctly grounded, maintain the engine speed at 2,000 RPM with the headlights on. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the case of the alternator and the negative voltmeter lead to the negative terminal of the battery. The voltmeter should read less than 0.2 volt (200 millivolts) if the alternator is properly grounded. If the reading is over 0.2 volt, connect one end of an auxiliary ground wire to the case of the alternator and the other end to a good engine ground.



1673294621936.png
 
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01yellercobra

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I know this is so bad but I have to ask the tuner I sent him my car and a new engine plus the fore fuel system level 1 but I can’t find where he put the regulator. On one of the pics it looks like it’s inside the fender.
The reason I ask is there is a recent thread on here talking about pulse dampers for the rails. I'm running a dead head set up and I had a lean spot off idle I couldn't get rid of. The car would bog from a stop then move fine. I put on one of those dampers and the car drove completely different. I was going to to suggest looking into one of those.
 

mark23svt

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Check your grounds and make sure there clean and tight. If it happens anymore you might want to do a voltage drop test on your cables and make sure your alternator is grounded good. A bad cable will generally be warmer than normal.


Voltage Drop Test Procedure:
When there is a suspected charging system problem (with or without a charge indicator light on), simply follow these steps to measure the voltage drop of the insulated (power-side) charging circuit.


STEP 1 Start the engine and run it at a fast idle (about 2,000 engine RPM).

STEP 2 Turn on the headlights to ensure an electrical load on the charging system.

STEP 3 Using any voltmeter set to read DC volts, connect the positive test lead (red) to the output terminal of the alternator. Attach the negative test lead (black) to the positive post of the battery.



The results should be interpreted as follows:

If there is less than a 0.4 volt (400 millivolts) reading, then all wiring and connections are satisfactory.

If the voltmeter reads higher than 0.4 volt, there is excessive resistance (voltage drop) between the alternator output terminal and the positive terminal of the battery.

If the voltmeter reads battery voltage (or close to battery voltage), there is an open circuit between the battery and the alternator output terminal.

To determine whether the alternator is correctly grounded, maintain the engine speed at 2,000 RPM with the headlights on. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the case of the alternator and the negative voltmeter lead to the negative terminal of the battery. The voltmeter should read less than 0.2 volt (200 millivolts) if the alternator is properly grounded. If the reading is over 0.2 volt, connect one end of an auxiliary ground wire to the case of the alternator and the other end to a good engine ground.
Dam thanks I will def try it this weekend not moving her until I’m off again.
 

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