My tree' Liter swap :)

ClOckwOrk

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here u go. blew up the 2.5L on he hunnerd shot after 3 years and 165k total miles. final #'s for the nitrous setup were 285/295 WHP. one time i dynoed 318/325 on a mobile dyno but thats hard to believe when all the other times i was 265-285.

anyways, now its a 3L N/A

cool stuff:

Weapon R headers
Weapon R y pipe
Trubendz 2.5" test pip
ford 3 bolt flex pipe
Trubendz 2.5" catback w/ magnaflow muffler
SVT cams
SVT intake manifolds
Pro flow 75MM maf
K&N intake
Optimized SVT throttle body
Spec Stage3 clutch
Deleted AC compressor, lines, condensor, etc
Energy suspension Polyeurethane roll resistor inserts
MSD dis-4 ignition
Ford racing 9mm spark plug wires
B&M short throw shifter
Focus ST shift knob
SVT focus wheels w/ Nitto tires
Eibach springs
new SVT struts
Hightowered headlights
AEM wideband 02


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l_2d58a39890c23426306f0234418931e7.jpg
 

Ryan

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sounds like a relatively basic swap? What size shot? Why'd you delete the a/c?
 

ClOckwOrk

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i wouldnt say my swap was basic. the heads were machined to accomodate the SVT intake manifolds. it's probably the hardest route to go but it yeilds the best power overall. i deleted the AC because i never used it, i wanted the room, the cleanliness of the engine bay, and the weight reduction. i used to run a 100 shot on the 2.5L motor.
 

LostRacer

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I thought the hybrids yielded a higher compression.. Bad for boost...

Nice swap regardless..
 

Ryan

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they do, but I believe he used 3.0L heads due to his comment in post 4.
 

Red99CSVT

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Nice looking car I'm running a 75 shot (dry) on my 2.5L when it goes I plan on doing a similar swap to yours. Have you thought of running juice on your 3L? I wonder what it would put down with a 100 shot?

When doing a 3L swap if the 2.5L heads/intakes are used it bumps the compression up to 11:1 what he did is used the 3L block/heads with the 2.5 upper and lower intakes.
 

ClOckwOrk

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yup yup guys i ran the 3L heads so my compression is still 10:1. i have SVT cams and intakes on it. this year i am going to get it tuned and run gutted secondaries. if i break 225 WHP N/A i'm going to get a direct port kit with a progressive controller running 125hp of juice, starting at 75 and ramping up in 2 or 3 seconds from there. hopefully that will get me into the mid 350's. i would only juice it if i can't afford to get some boost. i'd much rather have a turbo.... refills can be expensive after a while.
 

ClOckwOrk

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i don't have a total cost but one could do this for about 700 bucks total i'm guessing. i have more than that into this one from all the extra gaskets and stuff. if you dropped a full 3L in you could sell the SVT stuff and almost break even.
 

xXNovaXx

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sweet, I'm wanting to do this... I just need to find out how I'm going to :) thanks for the info
 

Ryan

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$700 total is pushing it. To do it right and have something reliable is going to be a bit more....
 

ClOckwOrk

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how so man. motors from LKQ with low rpm are 300-500$ all you need other than that are gaskets and fluids. some people put in a new clutch but i already had a stage3 with only 20k on it that still looked new so i put it back in.
 

Ryan

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To do it right. If you want some piece of shit that could crap out on you, sure half ass it. You used all the old timing components, valve springs, etc? In addition, the stock trans can't hold up to stock power levels, so now you have an open diff that's just waiting to g o ka boom
 

ClOckwOrk

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i already made 295 whp on the bottle with my stock diff. i know how to drive. if you dump the clutch and induce a wicked wheel hop, your gonna break the diff. thats about the only way to break it. some day my diff will go, but you can SURELY do a motor swap before doing the trans. i have much more than 700 in mine, trust me.

the heads were untouched. the motors are low mileage and everything is inspected. yes i used the stock 3L valvesprings with 30k on them. i used the SVT cams and all of the SVT timing components, because if your going to replace one part in the valvetrain, you have to replace everything. you cant put new chains on old sprockets, they will wear out the chain prematurely. so you have to use the SVT components with teh SVT cams, or the 3L components with the 3L cams. when people do a FULL 3L swap, they don't even touch the timing components, they just swap over the timing cover. so it can be done cheap, and have a really reliable car.
 

Newcat016

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how so man. motors from LKQ with low rpm are 300-500$ all you need other than that are gaskets and fluids. some people put in a new clutch but i already had a stage3 with only 20k on it that still looked new so i put it back in.

What year motor did you get? 04-05 or 03-earlier? Did you get the escape motor cause those had stronger internals and held up to boost alot better then the Taurus/sable motors. As for your parts, the svt motor had 160K, i'd have replaced the chains and sprockets on her when you swapped over everything. I can't compare in price since i had to acquire all the svt parts before the oval porting(which is very common in NE) As for dyno results, it is suggested that an improvement in the roller's in the 04-05 valve train allowed for more lift in SVT cams and alittle more power down low. As for oval porting=def worth it to spend the extra couple hours grinding and polishing.
 

ClOckwOrk

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again, you can't change the sprockets on the SVT cams. to run the SVT cams i had, i had to run all the stock chains and sprockets, or problems can occur. i did use the low mileage tensioners and chain guides. they are the same on both engines, and looked a little nicer. i ran an 03 sable motor. escapes had the same internals. all 03+ 3L duratecs had the thicker ring lands on the pistons. the only thing the escape has that is better than teh taurus is the oil pan. it has the integrated gasket and better baffling. i have the stock taurus pan in my car right now, with a different baffling setup. my car is ported of course. i used some templates a guy makes and ported them myself. it turned out pretty nice. oh and yes, i used the followers and lash adjusters from the 3L the rollers are slightly larger (i think they measured out 2mm in dia. larger.) but i will say it again. if you use SVT cams, you MUST use the SVT sprocket and chains. if you don't, your going to prematurely wear out the chains.
 

Ryan

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but i will say it again. if you use SVT cams, you MUST use the SVT sprocket and chains. if you don't, your going to prematurely wear out the chains.
You guy to Ford and buy new ones. You don't 'have to' re-use the old ones. The reason you can't use the 3.0L ones IIRC is because the sprockets are bigger on the 3.0L cams. The bottom line is is if you use SVT cams you have to use SVT timing components. If you use 3.0L cams (for whatever reason) you use 3.0L timing components.
 

ClOckwOrk

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the car has been running for 10k with the SVT components in it. they are fine. you can't match up a new chain to old sprockets. it will cause the new chain to wear prematurely and after a few thousand miles your new chain is as bad/worse than the one that was originally paired up with the cams. :sigh:
 

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