My Suspension Sucks... what to do?

[AZSN95SNAKE]

My suspension as of now is simple and consists of:
Ford B springs
tokico blue struts
eibach pro damper shocks

The ride is horrible, it's very bouncy (I think that's the eibach dampers fault). If I run over a sewage cover (not sure on the name of it), the front struts sound like they lose any sort of dampening and just completely bottom out.
Some folks on another forum that I found on google were talking about how the Ford B springs are garbage, that they over compress when the road gets uneven and thus provide for crappy shock dampening.

I live in the city and the roads here are pretty darn good.

I've had to replace the front struts twice already because they just keep getting worn out within 3-5 months of having them on the car. That's BS. My GT has H&R springs with tokico blues all the way around and it handles so much better.

Is it the springs?

 

[2DXTRM]

Could also be a mismatch in the struts and shocks.

Switch the struts to the Eibach struts, or go Bilstein all the way around.
Nothing wrong with the Eibach struts or shocks, better than the Tokico HP Blues IMO.

Get rid of the B springs for some H&Rs while you are there.

 

[AZSN95SNAKE]

I was thinking the same thing about the mismatch in struts and shocks. But since the front ones seem like they might be going out (AGAIN) I don't want to spend money on replacing the rear ones and than have the fronts go out again.

Bilstein would be better but I don't want to spend that kind of money. The blues and H&R's is perfect on the GT. It rides so much better than my cobra. IMO I think the eibach's are too soft. They feel like an "air ride".

I'm thinking of ditching the B springs for H&R's like the GT when I get my taxes and than just changing the struts/shocks all the way around.

 

[DVJ38]

Upgrade to Bilsteins all the way around. While you're under there check for play in the steering rods and balljoints. Make sure to check out your control arms in the back, or just replace them with new ones if they are original.

 

[Ciotti]

Ride quality is %90 shocks/struts and the fact that you're saying it's bouncy means that the shocks/struts aren't doing much of anything. Tokiko Blues suck plain and simple, Eibach Pro dampers I've never even heard of so I doubt they're decent either.

Best bet would be to go to Koni Yellows but if you want to save some money Bilsteins are just as good but you lose the adjustability of your rebound which you won't really need unless you plan on autocrossing/tracking the car in the future.

 

[AZSN95SNAKE]

Upgrade to Bilsteins all the way around. While you're under there check for play in the steering rods and balljoints. Make sure to check out your control arms in the back, or just replace them with new ones if they are original.

I would love to! But I don't think I want to spend all my money right now lol. Especially after going through struts and shocks twice already with no idea why. Yeah it would be a good idea to check the other parts you mentioned. I actually want to upgrade my control arms in a few weeks, can't go wrong with MM.

Ride quality is %90 shocks/struts and the fact that you're saying it's bouncy means that the shocks/struts aren't doing much of anything. Tokiko Blues suck plain and simple, Eibach Pro dampers I've never even heard of so I doubt they're decent either.

Best bet would be to go to Koni Yellows but if you want to save some money Bilsteins are just as good but you lose the adjustability of your rebound which you won't really need unless you plan on autocrossing/tracking the car in the future.

Yeah they really aren't doing much of anything at all. The rear eibach pro dampers are the ones causing all the bouncyness. When the car hits a bump, the front just makes the interior rattle while the rear just begins to bounce. I don't see why the tokico blues suck; I have them on the GT and they are perfect for daily driving. I have no complaints with them. Pro dampers were a quick cheap option since everyone was out of the blues at the time haha. Bad mistake.

Koni and Bilsteins are both quality products. I don't autocross nor track but I do plan to try taking it to a test and tune night after I get the gears in. So a non adjustable set is okay for me. Another good set without breaking the bank are the koni STR.T's.

I'm just not sure if it's the springs causing this issue. I'm beginning to think that's the culprit. I've also found a few other threads in which the posters there concurred that the B springs just plain suck. I might buy me some H&R's and tokico blue shocks out back and hope that it's better. H&R's are so much better; my GT ride's like a champ with them.

 

[Ciotti]

Yeah they really aren't doing much of anything at all. The rear eibach pro dampers are the ones causing all the bouncyness. When the car hits a bump, the front just makes the interior rattle while the rear just begins to bounce. I don't see why the tokico blues suck; I have them on the GT and they are perfect for daily driving. I have no complaints with them. Pro dampers were a quick cheap option since everyone was out of the blues at the time haha. Bad mistake.

Koni and Bilsteins are both quality products. I don't autocross nor track but I do plan to try taking it to a test and tune night after I get the gears in. So a non adjustable set is okay for me. Another good set without breaking the bank are the koni STR.T's.

I'm just not sure if it's the springs causing this issue. I'm beginning to think that's the culprit. I've also found a few other threads in which the posters there concurred that the B springs just plain suck. I might buy me some H&R's and tokico blue shocks out back and hope that it's better. H&R's are so much better; my GT ride's like a champ with them.

The springs have almost nothing to do with it, ride quality comes from proper damping to control the unsprung weight when you hit bumps and potholes. As an autocross instructor for the past 3+ years I've driven tons of Mustangs/Cobras with pretty much every different shock/strut other than those Eibach ones you mentioned and I can tell you that other than Bilsteins and Koni Yellows (not the STR.T's) none of the Japanese shock/struts have enough damping to properly control the massive amount of unsprung weight we have (rear axle/big heavy wheels and tires/big brakes etc...)

The STR.T's suck just as bad, I had my dad buy them for his Cobra and they feel exactly like the Tokiko Blues I used to have in that they're very underdamped which with a little research I found out is because the innards are made in Japan with all the other junk.


Your GT may feel better than your Cobra but if it has Tokiko Blues it's nowhere near as good as a Koni Yellow or Bilstein setup.


You can get front Bilsteins cheap from 2003/2004 Cobra guys as they came with them from the factory and then the rears will be cheap new.

 

[AZSN95SNAKE]

Well the spring rates do apply don't they? Can you tell I'm a noob? lol. I know spring rates can either make it stiffer or softer. Or they can just be flat out linear and not progressive and be stiff as a rock. Your experience sure does help. I know that Koni's and Bilsteins are top quality but for a daily driver I don't think it's necessary. Although you get what you pay for so the Bilsteins or Konis might be a good investment.

Really that bad? Another member who owns a bullitt and has taken his bullitt into the 11's NA with suspension highly recommended the STR.T's as a cheaper alternative. He mentioned the ride was quality was superb for the price.

I enjoy driving the GT more often due to how it rides compared to the Cobra. Oh yeah well that we; of course blues aren't anywhere as good as the B.'s nor K.'s.

Yeah I've seen people doing that but honestly I prefer buying those sort of parts new since there is more guarantee that they will be in great condition.

I'm really thinking of getting some H&R's and going with Bilstein all the way around. It will be worth it. I hate driving my Cobra as is, it's embarrassing with girls in the car lol.

 

[gq916]

if a car is lowered, is it better to buy 87-93 mustang shocks and struts since theyre shorter?

 

[SVTContique]

Bilstiens.

Plus they have a lifetime warranty IIRC.

 

[b dub]

I actually want to upgrade my control arms in a few weeks, can't go wrong with MM.

I'm just not sure if it's the springs causing this issue. I'm beginning to think that's the culprit. I've also found a few other threads in which the posters there concurred that the B springs just plain suck.

What arms front or rear? 03 takeoffs are a cheap alternative to a slightly better arm for the front, and you don't want to use any urethane arm in the rear. Either keep the stock rears or use MM's HD/XT arms, they are the only ones with proper bushings.

...it is your shocks/struts. Springs have very little to do with ride quality. And B springs are actually decent overall springs, they work especially well in a drag setup.

The springs have almost nothing to do with it, ride quality comes from proper damping to control the unsprung weight when you hit bumps and potholes. As an autocross instructor for the past 3+ years I've driven tons of Mustangs/Cobras with pretty much every different shock/strut other than those Eibach ones you mentioned and I can tell you that other than Bilsteins and Koni Yellows (not the STR.T's) none of the Japanese shock/struts have enough damping to properly control the massive amount of unsprung weight we have (rear axle/big heavy wheels and tires/big brakes etc...)

The STR.T's suck just as bad, I had my dad buy them for his Cobra and they feel exactly like the Tokiko Blues I used to have in that they're very underdamped which with a little research I found out is because the innards are made in Japan with all the other junk.


Your GT may feel better than your Cobra but if it has Tokiko Blues it's nowhere near as good as a Koni Yellow or Bilstein setup.


You can get front Bilsteins cheap from 2003/2004 Cobra guys as they came with them from the factory and then the rears will be cheap new.

...this is right on the money ^

...used 03 takeoff Bilsteins: $150

..new SRA Bilsteins from Carquest: $210

Ask me how I know lol.

Well the spring rates do apply don't they? Can you tell I'm a noob? lol. I know spring rates can either make it stiffer or softer. Or they can just be flat out linear and not progressive and be stiff as a rock. Your experience sure does help. I know that Koni's and Bilsteins are top quality but for a daily driver I don't think it's necessary.

Spring rates hardly matter unless you've got something crazy. B springs are definitely not crazy. Linear does not mean they will be stiff.

if a car is lowered, is it better to buy 87-93 mustang shocks and struts since theyre shorter?

Buy Fox struts and regular shocks. If you have caster camber plates you should be able to use a spacer pack to get the strut positioned for full travel anyway.

 

[Cobra52898]

I am a big fan of Maximum Motorsports and not just because they offer quality products but because they have very knowledgeable staff that can help you put together a suspension package in which everything will work together. They are also a Bilstein dealer. You should give them a call, I'm sure they could help you put together a suspension setup that would work great without spending a fortune.

 

[AZSN95SNAKE]

What arms front or rear? 03 takeoffs are a cheap alternative to a slightly better arm for the front, and you don't want to use any urethane arm in the rear. Either keep the stock rears or use MM's HD/XT arms, they are the only ones with proper bushings.

...it is your shocks/struts. Springs have very little to do with ride quality. And B springs are actually decent overall springs, they work especially well in a drag setup.


...this is right on the money ^

...used 03 takeoff Bilsteins: $150

..new SRA Bilsteins from Carquest: $210

Ask me how I know lol.

Spring rates hardly matter unless you've got something crazy. B springs are definitely not crazy. Linear does not mean they will be stiff.

Buy Fox struts and regular shocks. If you have caster camber plates you should be able to use a spacer pack to get the strut positioned for full travel anyway.

Just the rears for now. Later on I'll look into some front control arms and as you have said will be looking for 03/04 ones. What's that about the bushings? I was planning to get some MM non adjustable LCA's. I do remember reading something about the bushings before, a serious suspension guy was recommending not getting poly. bushings. It was titled something like the "truth about control arms."

Yeah struts and shocks are the major contributors to ride quality, I get that. But my shocks/struts don't seem like they are lasting very long. My front passenger strut seems like it is going out again. If I drive over a sewage entrance, you can hear the strut not being capable of handling the bump and it clunks like it bottomed out. The rears are just bouncy all over the place and hit hard over bumps. It does not feel planted at all to the ground. That's because the rear shocks suck though. I don't want to spend a boat load of money on new struts/shocks again and have them go out again within months. So I figured the springs might be the culprit.

I love that my GT can corner a bit better than the Cobra and feel planted to the ground. It has H&R's but I plan to use the Cobra as a DD that can move in a straight line so the B springs might be a better option. If they are not the culprit than I shall keep them.

B's are actually a pretty soft spring it looks like.

Would you recommend I use fox struts as well? It's not lowered as drastically as eibachs and H&R's. Or are the bilstiens for my model year perfect for a lowered car?

 

[AZSN95SNAKE]

Bilstiens.

Plus they have a lifetime warranty IIRC.

I might just do that. The warranty is definitely appealing since I'm dealing with struts that keep blowing out. Thanks for the heads up!

I am a big fan of Maximum Motorsports and not just because they offer quality products but because they have very knowledgeable staff that can help you put together a suspension package in which everything will work together. They are also a Bilstein dealer. You should give them a call, I'm sure they could help you put together a suspension setup that would work great without spending a fortune.

I have heard that a lot about them. I might just have to give them a call. I want their controls soon. I'm trying to settle something with a vendor, I'm hoping they will accept my return of a tuner since they don't do that. With that money and more money that I will have to dish out I want to get the MM control arms and new shocks/struts.

 

[DVJ38]

The thing is, we are recommending Bilsteins because they don't go out. It isn't uncommon at all for Tokiko Blues to go out after a little while. I don't think you have any other problems other than cheap shocks/struts. Keep the B springs, upgrade the rear shocks to Bilsteins for now. When you have money do the fronts. I honestly think you'll be perfectly fine ordering the Bilsteins for your model year cobra and not a fox body. B springs don't slam the car at all.

For control arms, get MM lower and stock uppers (or whatever MM calls them). It's the best setup for the least amount of bind. I have poly bushings in the rear uppers and lowers and I HATE hitting a bump while I'm in a turn. Can't wait to atleast get stock uppers back in lol.

 

[b dub]

What's that about the bushings? I was planning to get some MM non adjustable LCA's. I do remember reading something about the bushings before, a serious suspension guy was recommending not getting poly. bushings. It was titled something like the "truth about control arms."

Poly bushings create bind, plain and simple. Bind increases the wheel rate, which is bad. But suffice it to say, you want stock arms and a panhard or MM arms. And a panhard.

Yeah struts and shocks are the major contributors to ride quality, I get that. But my shocks/struts don't seem like they are lasting very long. My front passenger strut seems like it is going out again. If I drive over a sewage entrance, you can hear the strut not being capable of handling the bump and it clunks like it bottomed out. I don't want to spend a boat load of money on new struts/shocks again and have them go out again within months. So I figured the springs might be the culprit.

Your springs aren't a problem. If you think B springs aren't handling/ride quality oriented, consider my setup: I have drag race specific springs, Fox 4 cylinder fronts and Eibach drag rears, and it rides smooth as can be with Bilsteins. I have a bit of brake dive and body roll but the ride is excellent. And I spent a total of $360 for them, that's cheap. Your struts aren't bottoming out, you'd have to hit a HUGE bump at speed to do that, chances are they're wearing due to cheap quality in the first place.

Would you recommend I use fox struts as well? It's not lowered as drastically as eibachs and H&R's. Or are the bilstiens for my model year perfect for a lowered car?

No. Get a set of MM caster plates, they come with spacers to space the strut at the correct depth to keep it from wearing prematurely.

The thing is, we are recommending Bilsteins because they don't go out. It isn't uncommon at all for Tokiko Blues to go out after a little while. I don't think you have any other problems other than cheap shocks/struts. Keep the B springs, upgrade the rear shocks to Bilsteins for now. When you have money do the fronts. I honestly think you'll be perfectly fine ordering the Bilsteins for your model year cobra and not a fox body. B springs don't slam the car at all.

For control arms, get MM lower and stock uppers (or whatever MM calls them). It's the best setup for the least amount of bind. I have poly bushings in the rear uppers and lowers and I HATE hitting a bump while I'm in a turn. Can't wait to atleast get stock uppers back in lol.

+1, and you can't find the stock rubber bushings unfortunately. I'm trying to find a stock arm set in a junkyard somewhere.

 

[gq916]

who sells the bilsteins for the cheapest brand new?

 

[AZSN95SNAKE]

The thing is, we are recommending Bilsteins because they don't go out. It isn't uncommon at all for Tokiko Blues to go out after a little while. I don't think you have any other problems other than cheap shocks/struts. Keep the B springs, upgrade the rear shocks to Bilsteins for now. When you have money do the fronts. I honestly think you'll be perfectly fine ordering the Bilsteins for your model year cobra and not a fox body. B springs don't slam the car at all.

For control arms, get MM lower and stock uppers (or whatever MM calls them). It's the best setup for the least amount of bind. I have poly bushings in the rear uppers and lowers and I HATE hitting a bump while I'm in a turn. Can't wait to atleast get stock uppers back in lol.

Gotcha, that sounds like the way to go. Bilsteins or bust. Wouldn't it be wise to them all at the same time rather than just the rears? For peace of mind as well so that I know when I got them all. That's what I have been reading in the research that I have done on the subject of control arms. Hitting a bump with the poly bushings in the rear uppers and lowers sounds like a big pain in a$$!

Poly bushings create bind, plain and simple. Bind increases the wheel rate, which is bad. But suffice it to say, you want stock arms and a panhard or MM arms. And a panhard.

Your springs aren't a problem. If you think B springs aren't handling/ride quality oriented, consider my setup: I have drag race specific springs, Fox 4 cylinder fronts and Eibach drag rears, and it rides smooth as can be with Bilsteins. I have a bit of brake dive and body roll but the ride is excellent. And I spent a total of $360 for them, that's cheap. Your struts aren't bottoming out, you'd have to hit a HUGE bump at speed to do that, chances are they're wearing due to cheap quality in the first place.

No. Get a set of MM caster plates, they come with spacers to space the strut at the correct depth to keep it from wearing prematurely.

I eventually plan to get a panhard, but for now MM control arms and sub frame connectors should be fun! Thanks of the technical info. on the binding with poly bushings. I remember reading that in my research. Ah wow yeah your spring/shock set up is completely different and I bet less comfortable than mine! Wow yeah that's dirt cheap! Good find. Ah really? Well when I go over sewage covers that are about 1.5 inches sunken in here in the valley, they struts thud really hard as if they want to over compress but can't. But like everyone says the tokico blues are apparently low quality to begin with. Everyone on GT forums seems to encourage people to get tokico blues lol.

Yeah I haven't gotten CC plates on the Cobra yet. Hence why I have a little bit of camber issues. The shop I went to couldn't get it to spec with B springs, kind of sad on their part. I have those MM CC plates on my GT and they are great!