My MMR Shortblock Build....Part 2

hus

SPDJNKY
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Ok, since the other thread spanded about 4 months I decided to start this new one for fresh clean start. I'll explain the build, the parts and the price as I go along. I can post pics but to be honest, there is absolutely nothing that looks any different than before other than the top part of the block...you can tell it's cast iron. So here's a summary:

SUMMARY:

My 01 motor blew for the second time in May of 09. This motor was pretty much stock with the exception of the Mahle dome-top 9:1 pistons and of course the proper fuel bolt-ons and the Vortech V2 and Paxton Intercooler. Basically the guy I had to build it didn't know shitballs about a mod motor and that's my fault.

So I decided to order a MMR 4.6 Street Mod 800 shortblock and be done with it. I had the block shipped to Dynospeed Racing in Memphis, TN for them to do the swap. Joe and the guys at Dynospeed are really top notch. I was told from the get-go that the shop was backed up for 2 months. My car wasn't going anywhere blown up so I asked Joe if he could send someone to come and get the car. Rick came and picked up the car in June. Joe and John kept me informed of what was going on around the shop and with my car the entire time. I had to have several parts replaced that were destroyed or went bad from the previous build. Anyway, I got the car back Saturday (10/24/09) and I'm currently trying to put 500 to 600 miles on the new build and new Spec 2 clutch. Oh, and I would recommend Dynospeed to anybody.

THE BUILD:

Parts from the old build put onto the new build:

SCT X3
Vortech V-2E
Vortech 2.87 Pulley
Paxton Intercooler
SCT 2600 MAF
42lb injectors
Aviator Fuel Pump
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
BBK Longtube Headers
Flowmaster Mufflers
SLP Exit Pipes
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Spec Stage 2 Clutch
Spec Steel Flywheel


ALL THE NEW STUFF:

The MMR Mod 800 Shortblock with 9.5:1 CR
-Shortblock includes the following:
*Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed

*New 4340 Forged 3.543 stroke Cobra Crankshaft w/micro polished journals at no extra charge

*New 4340 5.933 MMR 800HP H-beam Rods w/ARP rod bolts ( These rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 4.6)

*New Forged Manley pistons (High or low compression)

*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)

* Clevite tri-metal Rod and ACL Performance Main bearings

*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available, Pre-Lubricated with Royal Purple Assembly Lube and spin tested. Lastly 3 technicians sign off on your new engine prior to packaging and crating.

That's the shortblock essentials above
____________________________________
Rest of new parts:

Melling Billet Gear Oil Pump
ARP Mainstuds
MMR Sidebolts

Total cost of MMR ordered parts = $3,632


BUILD AT DYNOSPEED:

What was needed:

2 - MLS Head Gaskets
1 - Water Pump
1 - Set of Ford Gaskets
- Shaved Heads
1 - Ford Racing Oil Strainer
- ARP Head Studs
8 - Dowell
8 - NGK TR6 Plugs
1 - Guide
1 - Chain
32 - Tappet Lifters
1 - Pilot Bearing
1 - BBK Off Road H-Pipe (old one had to be replaced)
1 - Optima Red Top
12 - Quarts of 5w20 Oil
2 - Oil Filters
- Coolant
2 - 6" T-Bolt Clamps
1 - Steeda Adjustable Clutch Kit
- SCT Part Throttle Tune

Parts Total = $2,231
Labor Total = $1,900


So, the totals are:

MMR Shortblock = $3,632
Parts and Labor = $4,131
TOTAL of BUILD = $7,763

Like I said, it's being broke in before I can do a WOT Tune. I'm trying my best to get the "stop and go" miles put on the car this week so I can get the thing tuned. As soon as I do I'll post the dynosheet.

The car previously made 436rwhp 390rwtq....I hoping for better this next time.
 
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hus

SPDJNKY
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Thanks. I have about 200 miles on it right now so maybe I can knock them out quick...I hope.
 

gmsux

Denial ain't just a river
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Good information, stop n' go with significant load will seat the rings properly before the finish in the cyl. walls smoothes out and cannot shape the rings anymore, get on it! It needs pressure to force the rings out.
 

hus

SPDJNKY
Established Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
Messages
423
Location
Alabama
Good information, stop n' go with significant load will seat the rings properly before the finish in the cyl. walls smoothes out and cannot shape the rings anymore, get on it! It needs pressure to force the rings out.

I'm shifting at about 3500 to 3800 rpm at every gear. I try to get to the point rather quick every other red light. The part throttle tune is set at 4000rpm so I don't really want to get on it to quick and take it beyond that point. I've been going to get groceries and diapers like never before! ;-)
 

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