My mach 1 on dyno days

[ONEbadmachONE]

Hey guys, I am interested what you guys thought about my mach? What would you guys reccommend for bolt on parts? I am planning a Kenne Bell 1.7 blower, but before I have saved 450000 pennies I would like to do a couple smaller things. Thanks for any ideas. I am definately getting a predator this week or the next, I should have gotten one before we ran up there, oh well hindsight's 20/20 right?

 

[ChuckysSVT]

What do you have on it now..?

 

[ChuckysSVT]

:thumbsup: First thing should be my IRS...

 

[Oxford Snake]

Exhaust would probably free up the most ponies, retune with a Predator or SCT Flasher, then underdrive pullies.

 

[RickSvt]

Dont they make a 2.2 for your car? I dont know anything about those machs, but what are most of the mach people doing?

rick

 

[ONEbadmachONE]

It is completely stock at the moment, I am planning on the stingers and the predator and some March pulleys. I like the IRS for cornering but I like the live axle for draggin and the Tokico shocks the mach comes with make it handle PERTY DARN GOOD. It has a 3/4 inch lower from the factory too which helps. I am looking at the steeda 5 link now that they have a rear exit exhaust version available. Gets rid of the up to 2" side to side movement on the live axle. It's not my only project car and the other has been getting all my money lately so I have left it stock. It runs a 13.02 on the 1/4 though. Not too shabby. I was happy with the 365ftlbs torque but the hp was kinda lower than expected. Could have been that I couldnt lock it into gear, it kept shifting down on me. The auto was a pain on the dyno but its got a shift kit from the factory and it slams into gear, it's no slush box thats for sure! I know I have won races against people with more hp becuase of the auto. Plus I saved 10,000 on the car so I aint complaining. The guys at the dyno said I would have done alot better if I had a predator at the dyno. Next time! Thanks dave for the ideas, and the rest of you keep em coming! //)

 

[Joe5.0]

I personally say ditch the Auto and get a 5spd. Thats what i would do first.

 

[ONEbadmachONE]

They do make a 2.2 but it requires a built short block, I dont really wanna go that route. A 1.7 with 5psi puts 450 to the wheels, cant complain there! Above 9 psi is where you have to build the engine. Remember I have a higher compression ratio than a cobra without the super. I am 10.5:1 and cant go big boost without changing the pistons to lower compression ratio. //( The kenne bell retains the shaker and is only a 10 hour install so I think thats the way I wanna go, plus it's a roots type which I prefer over the centrifugals. It is almost invisible under the shaker, just a chrome pulley sticks out! SLEEPER!

 

[saleen09]

365 ft/lbs? I think that's a little optomistic...... Get a predator to dial in the downshift and see where those numbers sit.

That said, nice mach one. For mods I would save all my pennies and go with a Vortech. You get to keep the shaker FUNCTIONAL, and you'll run 10's ( 5 speed cars) with nothing more than exhaust mods. Your car being an automatic hurts things a little as they come with a weak cast crank, compounding the already weak bottom end ( pistons, rods, etc....). For longevity, consider building the bottom end and beefing up the tranny before going F.I. Once you have boost, you'll only want more.

Another route would be heads and cam for a solid 350whp or so. That will affect driveability more than FI though.

Got to love Mustangs, so many roads to take for speed!

 

[Joe5.0]

The Kenne bell is a Twin screw. Roots would be like the cobras, Centrificul would be pro charger, Vortech Paxton etc.

Go with intake, exhaust and a tune.

 

[ONEbadmachONE]

Actually the 365lbs is from the dyno sheet. The mach comes with torque cams instead of higher rev cams. Ford said they were trying to make the Mach a drag racer hence the torque cams. I know I was shocked when I saw that.

 

[Joe5.0]

your 1st run said 365 tq. Then ure next 2 runs if i read correctly were in there 280 range.

 

[Tylerb59]

What were your results again?

Maybe look into a midpipe / catback for sound but otherwise if you have a blower in your future don't waste your money with all the BS bolt on. You're just wasting your time and money when you could be saving up for the blower.

 

[saleen09]

I would recommend spending some time over at mach1registry.org for more info on your car. They know these cars best, as Cobra's are the specialty on this site

On that note, not starting a flame war but from that site, here's stock dyno #'s for both 5 speed and Auto's.

1.TorchRedAuto - 267rwhp/284rwtq - STD/Unknown
2.KB ZILLA - 266.50rwhp/288.53rwtq - SAE/Dynojet *air sliencer removed
3.Dragpack Mach - 257rwhp/271rwtq - Unknown
4.03 OxfordMach1 - 254.4rwhp/269.8rwtq - SAE/Dynojet
5.roushmach1 - 254rwhp/???rwtq - Unknown
6.lstpierr - 253.67rwhp/270.74rwtq - SAE/Unknown
7.GaPonyFarm - 250rwhp/267rwtq - SAE/Dynojet
8.rtking - 242rwhp/249rwtq - Unknown/Clayton Chassis Dyno
9.cmylxgo - 240.1rwhp/270.8rwtq - STD/Dynojet

The 365 from the dyno sheet was more than likely from the torque multiplication of shifting down to 2nd gear.

 

[Tylerb59]

Actually the 365lbs is from the dyno sheet. The mach comes with torque cams instead of higher rev cams. Ford said they were trying to make the Mach a drag racer hence the torque cams. I know I was shocked when I saw that.

Check the other runs because the first two or so were flawed because your auto kept downshifting.

You should be around 300 RWTQ... HP less in the 260-70s.

Go with those numbers ... don't kid yourself.

 

[Joe5.0]

^^ Exactly like i said your 2nd and 3rd runs were in the 280 Range.

 

[Oxford Snake]

305 at the flywheel, a generous 15% drivetrain loss = 260tq at the rear. Probably even less with the auto.

Turbo

Check the link above. Twin turbo mach one. 600+rwhp on 8-9lbs

 

[Tylerb59]

Don't get March pullies, they're piggyback.

You want one which has a built in balancer like the Steeda I have for my GT.

Also, you're going to have to put on the stock pulleys when you install the supercharger, so best just skip all that. Like I said, the more money you're wasting on this little stuff you could have been saving for the bigger picture.

 

[ChuckysSVT]

Check the other runs because the first two or so were flawed because your auto kept downshifting.

You should be around 300 ...

DYNO sheets dont lie...I hit 570 rwtq... :-D

ooh..I forgot I cheated.... :shrug:

Its like they said...the downshift messes w/ the numbers...I had that prob w/ my 454 ss p/u. You were running rich if I remember right...a tune will help a ton. Before you spend the big bucks on a blower...try to work out all the little things. 3hp here + 5 hp here + 6 hp here, etc, etc, = a bunch of hidden power. I think that is overlooked by alot of people...

 

[Tylerb59]

No, get the blower first.. Then start tweaking.

Get it out of the way!! I'm telling you. I wish I skipped all of this intake / exhaust stuff and went for what really counts. Now that I'm out of a job I'm delayed even further.

DYNO sheets dont lie...

Depending on where you're getting the dyno run in.

Mine lied. :nonono: