rost5501
New Member
Unleashed, can I get your fluid recommendations for a 2008 GT500? Thanks.
My first oil change on 14 track pack GT.. Cap says 5w/50
- Thread starter 03BlownSnake
- Start date
Factory Fill is 6.5 quarts (stock oil pan) and 8 quarts with an aftermarket oil pan.
Amsoil XL 10W-40 – Use this if you have the stock 192* thermostat, or you road race your car for extended sessions. This lubricant requires changing every 12 months or 10,000 miles, whichever occur first.
Amsoil 10W-30 – Use this if you have the Reisch 170* thermostat, and you do NOT road race your car. Street brawls and drag racing is OK with this lubricant. This lubricant requires changing every 12 months or 15,000 miles, whichever occur first.
Amsoil RD30 - alternate replacement for the best anti-wear protection for serious GT500's that are over 650-700 rwhp, using the 170* thermostat, and especially an E85 car. This lubricant requires changing every 6 months or 5,000 miles, whichever occur first.
Amsoil EaO11 oil filter - 98.7% efficiency @ 20 microns, yet still flow better than a Motorcraft FL-820 (only 93.7% efficiency @ 20 microns).
Make your T6060 transmission shift like butter.
Amsoil Synthetic ATF - 3.6 quart fill (buy a gallon and use the left over fluid in your power steering pump)
Bottle Hand Pump - fits quarts and gallons (makes refilling the transmission and rear differential very easy)
For your rear differential
Amsoil 75W-140 - 2.5 quart fill – buy 3 quarts to make sure you have enough.
Friction modifier is required in the factory differential. Use all 4 ounces
Amsoil Slip Lock - 1 bottle required
Maybe in the future you would be interested to know how well your engine is performing internally. It's also a good community contribution to the UOA chart I have been putting together. All help is appreciated.
UOA testing kit
UOA Thread
and never pay retail price for it. Get it at dealer cost by adding this to your cart before you check out (save 25-30% on everything). Use the one year option.
Preferred Customer
Don't mean to hijack the thread but Unleashed help me out... 2014 GT Mt currently 5k miles, I am running nitrous and E85. located in Chicago, IL. Car sits in the garage 6 months out of the year but when I drive it its driven hard. Do you still recommend Amsoil AZO 0W-30 or should I use Amsoil RD30 10W-30?? with spray I am right past 600rwhp
@UnleashedBeast,
I have been running the recommended Motorcraft 5W-20 in my car that is detailed in my signature for the past 35K miles and I just happened upon this thread.
To confirm, since I drive my car year round, including snow and ice, and do have a 50/50 mix of city and highway driving, and have less than 400 WHP for now, I should use the Amsoil AZO 0W-30?
I have been running the recommended Motorcraft 5W-20 in my car that is detailed in my signature for the past 35K miles and I just happened upon this thread.
To confirm, since I drive my car year round, including snow and ice, and do have a 50/50 mix of city and highway driving, and have less than 400 WHP for now, I should use the Amsoil AZO 0W-30?
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I believe its a synthetic blend.
I followed the recommendations from this board and had Ford change my oil around 1K miles in my 13 Boss and I got the tick noise immediately after my early change and when the engine reached operational temp. Thankfully, the noise now disappears after a few hundred miles. Ford has it documented and the performance is still top notch but they odd enough they told me I had it changed too early.
So my question is why do people recommend an early oil change on new Mustangs? Thanks for info in advance....
So my question is why do people recommend an early oil change on new Mustangs? Thanks for info in advance....
I'll be honest. This car is my first ever car and I didn't even know that new cars needed oil changed so soon.
I went 7,000 miles on the original oil.
I went 7,000 miles on the original oil.
You do not have to change the initial fill that early. It's just nice to get initial wear metals out of the sump from first break in. That's when wear metal ppm will be the most concentrated.
Engine tick issue, do we still think Ford was adding something to quiet the engine down to make the sale?
Engine tick issue, do we still think Ford was adding something to quiet the engine down to make the sale?
Since you store the car all winter, you really have no need for 0W-30. RD30 is a good formulation for your use and driving habits, assuming you race and spray a lot. If you don't, Amsoil ATM 10W-30 is your choice.
Amsoil AZO 0W-30 is a great choice if you want one fill to perform in winter driving and summer racing. However, if you drive it year round to get groceries, I'd stick with Amsoil 5W-20. At least use a formulation with far lower NOACK Volatility (evaporation).
With all due respect, my Boss 302 says 5w50 on the cap and in the manual. If there was an engine failure and you had, say, 10w30 or any thing other than 5w50, aren't you asking for trouble warranty wise? Could they not void the warranty? Why would Ford recommend 5w50?
Personally, my 2013 Boss 302 is running what the manf. calls for (Motorcraft 5w50) until the warranty is up.
BTW, I'm not trying to a smart a$$ or a troll, just educate me on why you would not use what Ford recommends?
Personally, my 2013 Boss 302 is running what the manf. calls for (Motorcraft 5w50) until the warranty is up.
BTW, I'm not trying to a smart a$$ or a troll, just educate me on why you would not use what Ford recommends?
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If Ford is going to void your warranty for running a less viscous lubricant, they would void your warranty to using Motorcraft 5W-50 after 1,500 miles. After that few miles, Motorcraft 5W-50 is always a very light SAE grade 40. Some samples were a heavy SAE 30 grade. Ford states you can run this lubricant up to 10,000 miles if I recall correctly (for normal street use).
I hear what your saying. I guess my point is if you have an engine failure, they pull an oil sample and say, "Oh, it's not Motorcraft 5W50, so no warranty repair".
I know I'm being ultra-cautious here, but I think I'll stay with what Ford recommends.
BTW, In your opinion, is Motorcraft 5W50 really that bad of an oil for the Boss 302?
That's where they still can't fail you, because looking at the sample of MC 5W-50 after shearing, you'd think you were looking at a low quality sheared sample of 10W-40 (I am not making this up, it's true). Therefore, Ford could void your warranty for using MC 5W-50. Know how many warranties have been voided because Ford did a UOA on someone's engine after a failure? None recorded in the history of SVT performance. You are worried about something that has never happened. I challenge anyone to find one thread on here about it. Their warranty was voided because of an aftermarket tune, or a smaller pulley on a GT500. Never because of lubricant choice.
That brings about another topic. People terrified about lubricant choice in their car, concerning warranty, yet having an aftermarket tune instaslled. Makes zero sense when the tune has far more destructive potential.
Is MC 5W-50 a terrible choice for the Boss 302, no. Are there far better options, Yes!
That brings about another topic. People terrified about lubricant choice in their car, concerning warranty, yet having an aftermarket tune instaslled. Makes zero sense when the tune has far more destructive potential.
Is MC 5W-50 a terrible choice for the Boss 302, no. Are there far better options, Yes!
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UnleashedBeast, I got my first oil change done by the dealer on my 2014 GT with track pack this summer and I just found out(I didn't know about 5w50 before) they used 5w20 Synthetic Blend, they said I had a misprint on my oil cap which is not true since it has the track package. They then transferred me to parts and the parts guy got the tech sheet and said your car should of had 5w50.
I was going to change the oil again right before winter storage this week and I bought 8qt of MC 5w20 Synthetic Blend from Walmart. Should I use that oil or do you think I should use 5w50 that Ford calls for? I have never been to the track with the car only the drag strip and I don't really plan on going to the track anytime soon.
I was going to change the oil again right before winter storage this week and I bought 8qt of MC 5w20 Synthetic Blend from Walmart. Should I use that oil or do you think I should use 5w50 that Ford calls for? I have never been to the track with the car only the drag strip and I don't really plan on going to the track anytime soon.
I was also reading on this page:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-2014-mustang-talk/631074-buying-5w50-motor-oil.html#post5807202
The guy says to use 5w50, I am so confused. I also heard of some people getting the "Oil change tick" after the first or second oil change.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-2014-mustang-talk/631074-buying-5w50-motor-oil.html#post5807202
The guy says to use 5w50, I am so confused. I also heard of some people getting the "Oil change tick" after the first or second oil change.
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Your engine, despite calling for 5W-50, is the exact same engine Ford recommends 5W-20 for in the GT. The only difference on the outside is the Boss 302 oil cooler and better engine radiator. That being said, if you are driving your car on the street, never long session road course racing this car, you are fine with 5W-20. Anyone who says your engine will go "boom" is a fool.
Well I had to go the US last night to pick up some packages and I also picked up some 5W-50 Castrol Edge Full Synthetic from Advanced auto parts. Then I got home and look at the bottle closely and I notice its marked Specially formulated for classic cars. Then I do some more research and see that it doesn't meet WSS-M2C931-B specifications and it might be hard on the catalytic converters because of the high zinc content. Is this true? Can I safely use this stuff?
The only 5W-50 lubricant in the world to carry WSS-M2C931-B specification is Motorcraft 5W-50. Castrol dropped this specification about two years ago. For the short term, it will not damage your cats. Long term, phosphorus ppm content in the lubricant can destroy them. I honestly wouldn't lose any sleep over this, as API SL certification hasn't been gone that long really. The only reason why the API adopted SM and SN certifications (lower ZDDP) was to pacify auto manufactures desire to make the catalyst survive beyond the federal regulated warranty of 80,000 miles.
Is it my lubricant of choice for your car, no. Will it be fine in your engine, sure....on the road course. Not my choice for street only action, as it's far too viscous, and you live in a cold environment. I'd opt for a true synthetic 10W-30 from Amsoil for your car for street use. 5W-50 lubricants on paper, above 32*F, actually spec like a 20W-50. True synthetic 10W-30 will have far better cold start ups.
Is it my lubricant of choice for your car, no. Will it be fine in your engine, sure....on the road course. Not my choice for street only action, as it's far too viscous, and you live in a cold environment. I'd opt for a true synthetic 10W-30 from Amsoil for your car for street use. 5W-50 lubricants on paper, above 32*F, actually spec like a 20W-50. True synthetic 10W-30 will have far better cold start ups.
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