My first oil change on 14 track pack GT.. Cap says 5w/50

03BlownSnake

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So I have 800 miles and I would like to change my oil on my new car. I've had read in this forum that apparently Amsoil is the way to go. My GT is my daily driver and Vegas weather is super hot! My cap says 5/50 oil. So what's recommended to be used? Do I stick with a 50 weight? Or can I go abit lower?
I'm changing the oil now cause I wanted to get rid of the break in oil. Is that a good idea or should I wait abit longer to do?
Thanks for the help in advance guys
 

UnleashedBeast

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I always change the initial fill on any new car by 1,000 miles. Tell me more about your car. Currently stock? Will you road course race this car?
 

UnleashedBeast

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This is a newly revised application list I have created. Some hardcore Boss 302 road course competition owners were concerned about using 10W-40 on the course, that it was insufficient. Therefore, I modified my original list to address their concerns. It also reflects me officially abandoning Amsoil AMO 10W-40, as the formulation has aged, and XLO's additive package outperforms.

This recommendation list will cover all seasons for your car, from the harshest winter days, to the hottest summer days. The best part is, the oil only has to be changed once a year, or 15,000 miles, whichever occur first. *RD30 & RD50 must be changed every 6 months or 5,000 miles*

8 quart fill – GT
8.5 quart fill – Boss 302 and Track Pack GT

Amsoil ALM 5W-20 – If your car is 100% stock, never raced, driven like a grandma, or short trip driven, no matter the climate….use this. *Mustang GT only*

Amsoil AZO 0W-30 - If your car is driven year round up north in very cold temperatures with bolt on mods, street/drag raced during the summer, and you want one oil for year round use....use this.

Amsoil ATM 10W-30 - If your car is moderate to heavily modded, used in hotter climate states, or never driven during winter months in northern states...use this. *If you always short trip the car, use Amsoil AZO or ALM instead (never get the oil up to full temperature)*

Amsoil RD30 10W-30 - If your street car is modded to the max and producing HP beyond 600 rwhp, turbo or Supercharged, especially E85 fuel engines...use this.

Amsoil XLO 10W-40 - If you have a Boss 302 or Track Pack GT, and you close course run your car for the experience (learning - short heats)....use this.

Amsoil Dominator 15W-50 - If you have a Boss 302 or Track Pack GT, and you close course race your car in competition for extended sessions….use this. This lubricant is best suited when pushing your car to the edge of cooling limits from sustained high rpm operation. *Not optimal for short trip, grocery getting street duties*

*Boss 302 and Track Pack GT owners - If you do not road race your car, use Amsoil ATM 10W-30. 5W-50 spec for this engine is overkill and results in excessive oil pressure.*


Amsoil EaO17 - This oil filter outperforms any filter on the market. Royal Purple uses the same filter.

Amsoil Synchromesh - requires 3 quarts. Use this if you road race your car, or you are experiencing poor shifting.

If you have the Auto 6 speed, this stuff will survive the worst torture.

Amsoil LV Synthetic ATF - 12 quart total fill

and for the rear differential

Amsoil 75W-140 - requires 3 quarts

Don't forget the friction modifier

Amsoil Slip Lock - use all four ounces

*Boss 302 and Track Pack GT owners. If you have the Torsen differential in your car, do not use friction modifier.*

Amsoil Fuel Stabilizer - Use 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons of gasoline when storing your car in the winter.

Bottle Hand Pump - makes pumping new fluid into the transmission and rear differential very easy.

UOA testing kit - we have dedicated UOA threads to compare everyone's reports.

UOA thread

Last thing, do NOT pay retail for Amsoil...EVER! This is how to buy all Amsoil products at wholesale cost (saves 25% off retail).
Preferred Customer

If you ever have any questions, I'm always here to answer them. Just send me a PM.

Troy
 
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03BlownSnake

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I do more short trips then not. My work comute consists of less then 2 miles which takes less then 5 minutes so oil never reaches operating temps I'm sure. I don't plan on tracking the car , occasional run at the drag strip tho. Moderate mods only, full exhaust, intake and tuned. But I do drive somewhat agressive tho. Vegas days are very very hot here. Winter months aren't necessarily cold here. Summer well over 100 is very common
 

768MPH

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I ran his same suggestion along with some Amsoil Syncromesh trans fluid. He knows what he's talking about.

Do yourself a favor, CHANGE your trans fluid. lol
 

GCubersoldat

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This is a newly revised application list I have created. Some hardcore Boss 302 road course competition owners were concerned about using 10W-40 on the course, that it was insufficient. Therefore, I modified my original list to address their concerns. It also reflects me officially abandoning Amsoil AMO 10W-40, as the formulation has aged, and XLO's additive package outperforms.

This recommendation list will cover all seasons for your car, from the harshest winter days, to the hottest summer days. The best part is, the oil only has to be changed once a year, or 15,000 miles, whichever occur first. *RD30 & RD50 must be changed every 6 months or 5,000 miles*

8 quart fill – GT
8.5 quart fill – Boss 302 and Track Pack GT

Amsoil ALM 5W-20 – If your car is 100% stock, never raced, driven like a grandma, or short trip driven, no matter the climate….use this. *Mustang GT only*

Amsoil AZO 0W-30 - If your car is driven year round up north in very cold temperatures with bolt on mods, street/drag raced during the summer, and you want one oil for year round use....use this.

Amsoil ATM 10W-30 - If your car is moderate to heavily modded, used in hotter climate states, or never driven during winter months in northern states...use this. *If you always short trip the car, use Amsoil AZO or ALM instead (never get the oil up to full temperature)*

Amsoil RD30 10W-30 - If your street car is modded to the max and producing HP beyond 600 rwhp, turbo or Supercharged, especially E85 fuel engines...use this.

Amsoil XLO 10W-40 - If you have a Boss 302 or Track Pack GT, and you close course run your car for the experience (learning - short heats)....use this.

Amsoil Dominator 15W-50 - If you have a Boss 302 or Track Pack GT, and you close course race your car in competition for extended sessions….use this. This lubricant is best suited when pushing your car to the edge of cooling limits from sustained high rpm operation. *Not optimal for short trip, grocery getting street duties*

*Boss 302 and Track Pack GT owners - If you do not road race your car, use Amsoil ATM 10W-30. 5W-50 spec for this engine is overkill and results in excessive oil pressure.*


Amsoil EaO17 - This oil filter outperforms any filter on the market. Royal Purple uses the same filter.

Amsoil Synchromesh - requires 3 quarts. Use this if you road race your car, or you are experiencing poor shifting.

If you have the Auto 6 speed, this stuff will survive the worst torture.

Amsoil LV Synthetic ATF - 12 quart total fill

and for the rear differential

Amsoil 75W-140 - requires 3 quarts

Don't forget the friction modifier

Amsoil Slip Lock - use all four ounces

*Boss 302 and Track Pack GT owners. If you have the Torsen differential in your car, do not use friction modifier.*

Amsoil Fuel Stabilizer - Use 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons of gasoline when storing your car in the winter.

Bottle Hand Pump - makes pumping new fluid into the transmission and rear differential very easy.

UOA testing kit - we have dedicated UOA threads to compare everyone's reports.

UOA thread

Last thing, do NOT pay retail for Amsoil...EVER! This is how to buy all Amsoil products at wholesale cost (saves 25% off retail).
Preferred Customer

If you ever have any questions, I'm always here to answer them. Just send me a PM.

Troy

You sir are a god amongst men
 

Robot_trainer

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So now the AMO is inferior XLO. I thought the AMO was groupV and the XLO an inferior group III. If the package didnt change, why is the AMO inferior especially if it never sees more than 10k or 12 months of service?
 

UnleashedBeast

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Beast,

Do you provide the same recommendations for the 13-14 GT500's?

This is the latest version of recommendations for the 2013+ GT500. You will see that I have officially abandoned my previous recommendation of Amsoil AMO 10W-40, as the additive package in XLO is far superior in more ways than one.

Factory engine fill is 8.5 quarts

Amsoil XLO 10W-40 – Use this if you have the stock 192* thermostat, or you road race your car for extended sessions. This lubricant requires changing every 12 months or 10,000 miles, whichever occur first.

Amsoil ATM 10W-30 – Use this if you have the Reisch 170* thermostat, and you do NOT road race your car. Street brawls and drag racing is OK with this lubricant. This lubricant requires changing every 12 months or 15,000 miles, whichever occur first.

Amsoil RD30 - alternate replacement for the best anti-wear protection for serious GT500's that are over 650-700 rwhp, using the 170* thermostat, and especially an E85 car. This lubricant requires changing every 6 months or 5,000 miles, whichever occur first.

I strongly suggest using RD30 when you crank up the boost and delete the cats. It has the most robust additive package of all three lubricants listed.

Amsoil EaO11 oil filter - 98.7% efficiency @ 20 microns, yet still flow better than a Motorcraft FL-820 (only 93.7% efficiency @ 20 microns).

Make your T6060 transmission shift like butter.

Amsoil Synthetic ATF - 3.6 quart fill (non-track pack) add one quart for the extra track pack transmission cooler

Bottle Hand Pump - fits quarts and gallons (makes refilling the transmission and rear differential very easy)

For your rear differential

Amsoil 75W-90 – 2 quart fill (non-track pack) add one extra quart for the track pack differential cooler.

Friction modifier is only required in the standard clutch pack differential. Do not use it in the gear type Torsen included with the track pack option.

Amsoil Slip Lock - 1 bottle required

Amsoil Fuel Stabilizer - Use 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons of gasoline when storing your car in the winter.

Maybe in the future you would be interested to know how well your engine is performing internally. It's also a good community contribution to the UOA chart I have been putting together. All help is appreciated.

UOA testing kit

UOA Thread

and never pay retail price for it. Get it at dealer cost by adding this to your cart before you check out (save 20-25% on everything).

Preferred Customer

If you ever have any questions, please let me know.

Troy
 

UnleashedBeast

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So now the AMO is inferior XLO. I thought the AMO was groupV and the XLO an inferior group III. If the package didnt change, why is the AMO inferior especially if it never sees more than 10k or 12 months of service?

AMO's base oil is superior, to an extent, as it's 100% true synthetic. However, XLO has a superior, more modern, additive package. XLO is a blend of group III+ and group IV, with more group IV than group III+. NOACK Volatilty is still less than 8%. Off the shelf group III base oils have more than 10% NOACK, suggesting higher amounts of group III base oil.

AMO is old school when it comes to the additive package. High ZDDP and no friction modifiers (that part is significant). XLO has API SN levels of ZDDP with Moly and Boron used to compensate, and friction modifiers. UOA results with XLO are impressive, proving that modern day engines no longer require boat loads of ZDDP for protection, as modern additive packages compensate in other ways, which prove more effective.

Summary, sacrificing 1% NOACK volatility due to a small amount of group III+ base oil......to gain a superior, more modern additive package.....is a no brainer. Especially since UOA proves it.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Why not 5w30 instead of 10w30? All coyotes have 5w-something....(5w20 or track pack 5w50)

Why 10W-30?

This link will explain it.

Even unsheared Motorcraft 5W-50 specs like a 20W-50 above 32*F, so the "5W" is really a myth for the vehicles it's recommended for. 10W-40 XLO or AMO are both much less viscous @ 32*F than Motorcraft 5W-50 in virgin fresh form. Read more about that here...

Motorcraft "20W"-50
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Unleashedbeast, what weight oil do you use in your coyote?

Currently, since the car is tune only....and I only drive it once a week, 5W-20 Signature Series Amsoil. When I change it this year (as it's almost due), it will likely be 10W-30 Amsoil. The TT setup will be installed soon, so it's best to prep for it.
 

2014gttrackpack

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so you DON'T recommend using 5w30 amsoil SS in a 2014 track pack car for daily driver hot and cold weather? (from 100F to sub zero temps in the winter like last year)
 

UnleashedBeast

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so you DON'T recommend using 5w30 amsoil SS in a 2014 track pack car for daily driver hot and cold weather? (from 100F to sub zero temps in the winter like last year)

I do not have a track pack car, in case you were using my scenario as a point of measure.

Track Pack owners think they MUST use 5W-50 at all times, which is very misleading. In fact, if I had a Boss 302 car used on the street, it would have Amsoil Signature 10W-30 in it at all times of the year in northwest Florida. Signature 10W-30 is much less viscous in freezing weather than Motorcraft 5W-50, even after it shears, so it's going to allow far better cold starts.

Summary, yes.....any of the three 30 grade Signature Series lubricants will be fine in the Track Pack cars. If it's a stock car, driven like grandma, you can use 5W-20 year round. My recommendation guide clearly defines this. Also, do not forget that the Track Pack engine is the same as a standard GT, with the exception of external oil cooler and upgraded radiator.
 

2014gttrackpack

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I just didn't get why you say to use 10w30 and you use 5w20. And I'm sure you don't drive your car like a grandma, having a tune and what not... No disrespect, just an observation. I've been using 5w30 amsoil SS. Good protection on both ends.
 

UnleashedBeast

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The oil in my car was changed at 1,000 miles and again at 2,000 miles. The third fill was chosen to be 5W-20 since the car was still near stock, daily driven mildly. I wanted to see what the expected efficiency would be over the course of 10,000 miles with 5W-20. When I drain this fill, I can increase to Amsoil 10W-30 Signature and test for another year. The first few thousand miles will be the same setup, so it should reflect trends of mpg changes, if any at all. I'm always finding metrics to monitor for change. My hypothesis is that mpg will change so little, it's of no significance. Therefore, Ford calling on 5W-20 for CAFE laws/fines is unfounded, and the bean counters should have listened to the engineers calling to keep the 5W-30 recommendation.
 

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