My coolant temperatures, data-logged

[Bite u]

Temps usually drop with a/c on cause it kicks the high speed side of the fan on automatically. And I did the same thing... I had some crazy readings differ on my car with a mechanical gauge and a factory gauge plugged in. Factory would read to the L, with a code reader (that does live data) showing 230-240... But I ended up having air in the system.. Got all that put and it shows a 10* difference between passenger side n driver side crossover... (Factory coolant temp sensor and factory location temp sender, mechanical plugged in)

Anyways after burping the coolant system really well, putting a 170* thermo in ( 03-04 cobra my car reads just under 200 degrees cruising windows up and a/c on, n may get a tad over to like 205-210 in stop and go, which is normal for these cars especially on them hot hot days like we have here in the south

 

[Bite u]

Just a few pics of it... N just so everyone knows the gauge on the dash and the one u read when u log with programmer r 2 different señsors... First pic will show it.. Left side is the factory temp sensor, ( logged readings) blue wire on the right is where your sender reads off... I took it out and put a gauge in there. Last pic shows where I mounted it

 

[busta]

It has been hot here in Philly... I'll give you that.

 

[CJK440]

Understood. Block temps are probably more stable than head/cylinder temps.

Perhaps, but the water in the block will be cooler than the water after it has a chance to move thru the heads. I think with a properly burped cooling system the crossover is fine.

 

[Twisted2]

Bite u, so that 40 degree difference between the two readings was because of the air in the system? The readings are closer together now that the air has been bled out?

That's a good idea, mounting the gauge in the ashtray like that. I was thinking of putting one in the glove box...since apparently, these days, I like to chain smoke. Those new temps you've been running seem pretty good to me, especially with F/I.

Busta, indeed, it's been a bit rough here lately, weather-wise. Incidentally, I used to go to school out near you...Eastern University. Nice area.

CJK440, yeah, I'd have thought that someplace near the heads would be the hottest/best place; that's why I was curious as to what Stanggirl had heard. I'd probably use the crossover either way, regardless of what I heard otherwise; it makes the most sense to me. I'm a knuckle-head though.

 

[Twisted2]

oh man, sorry to hear that. I do as much of my own work as I can, just don't trust many garages. LOL

I wouldn't think it would be that bad but I have no idea on shop costs these days, although they say header installs are really bad and they're usually under 1k.

Sorry...I missed your post. Agreed, on doing your own work. I've had terrible luck letting other people work on my vehicles; you wouldn't even believe my averages, in terms of things going wrong. Lol. I was the same way, until I got hurt. Now I just have to grin and bear watching monkeys jump up and down on my engine, and do handstands on the strut-tower brace.

1k for a header install is nuts. Although, looking at my car, I wouldn't want to try to put headers in there...gimpy or able-bodied. Never seen such a tight fit before!

EDIT: And apparently, there ARE aftermarket headers installed in my car already. You couldn't prove it by me though; I can barely even see the things. Lol. Big old motors, the 4-valves.

 

[Bite u]

No forced induction here.... Just a bolt on n/a car with a tiny 75shot...

But yes the 40* difference was because of air in the system... But it also goes to show u that u can't always rely on the coolant temp sensor... Or the one that the (cooling fans, computer, scanners, n programmers) read off of, cause it might not always b correct. Hense the reason I took the old temp sender out (gauge in cluster) n replaced with a whole new mechanical sensor from the auto parts store. I think like 30 bucks for the cheapest one? They also have a smaller version of the gauge I got, mine is the standard 3" n some change diameter they have one a like a a little under 2" or something can't remember off the top of my head.

Anyways point being is I started all this cause my car was reading all the way over in the L range before... N even though the scanner was showing 200 I didn't like how off the where, so I ended up Doing some trial an error. Installed a lower degree thermo, drilled some extra bleed holes in it, burped the system about 3-4 times and now she is all good. Still have a 10* different between the mechanical gauge and the scanner... But after some thought I think I know y.

Coolant flows from driver to passenger side, the cooled water from the radiator comes from the downward tube on the crossover which is after the "sender" but before the "coolant temp" refer to my first pic if u don't understand. But the mechanical reads right at 200 or just under and my scanner reads 190. So all is well now

 

[Twisted2]

No forced induction here.... Just a bolt on n/a car with a tiny 75shot...

But yes the 40* difference was because of air in the system... But it also goes to show u that u can't always rely on the coolant temp sensor... Or the one that the (cooling fans, computer, scanners, n programmers) read off of, cause it might not always b correct. Hense the reason I took the old temp sender out (gauge in cluster) n replaced with a whole new mechanical sensor from the auto parts store. I think like 30 bucks for the cheapest one? They also have a smaller version of the gauge I got, mine is the standard 3" n some change diameter they have one a like a a little under 2" or something can't remember off the top of my head.

Anyways point being is I started all this cause my car was reading all the way over in the L range before... N even though the scanner was showing 200 I didn't like how off the where, so I ended up Doing some trial an error. Installed a lower degree thermo, drilled some extra bleed holes in it, burped the system about 3-4 times and now she is all good. Still have a 10* different between the mechanical gauge and the scanner... But after some thought I think I know y.

Coolant flows from driver to passenger side, the cooled water from the radiator comes from the downward tube on the crossover which is after the "sender" but before the "coolant temp" refer to my first pic if u don't understand. But the mechanical reads right at 200 or just under and my scanner reads 190. So all is well now

Gotcha. When you mentioned 03-04 Cobras when talking about the 170* stat, I thought you'd done a motor swap. Hadn't read your signature yet. Slow on the uptake.

Even slower still: I think I understand what you're saying about the coolant flow, and why that could create a temp difference between the two sides of the crossover pipe. I have to admit though, I think I was turned around in my understanding of which direction the coolant actually flows. I'd been thinking that it was LEAVING the engine at the crossover, rather than entering it there. I may have had that backwards though; the system confuses me. Trying to find a diagram of it, but can only find one for terminators. I'll keep looking. Anyway, thanks for the tips on aftermarket gauges.

 

[busta]

Busta, indeed, it's been a bit rough here lately, weather-wise. Incidentally, I used to go to school out near you...Eastern University. Nice area.

That's cool man if you ever wanna cruise or find a car show let me know. I'm 20 minutes down Montgomery Ave from Eastern.

 

[Twisted2]

That's cool man if you ever wanna cruise or find a car show let me know. I'm 20 minutes down Montgomery Ave from Eastern.

Busta, I appreciate the invite, man. That's a great idea, actually. Unfortunately, I'm just packing up to head back to CA in a couple weeks (shipping the car soon). It sure brings back memories though, you talking about the area.

 

[Bite u]

Thermostat is down low n opens allowing cool water from the radiator so it flows the way I told ya.

 

[Twisted2]

Thermostat is down low n opens allowing cool water from the radiator so it flows the way I told ya.

Makes sense. I guess the temperatures I was reading with my IR gun had me thinking it was the other way around. Thanks for the info, sir.

 

[Bite u]

Not a problem... Temp gun can b a tad in accurate... I did a 3rd test to confirm water temps with a thermostat in the fill hole on the crossover to verfy which was correct reading and which was off... That showed the mechanical being the most accurate. So that's how I monitor it now

 

[Twisted2]

When you mentioned smaller gauges, it got me considering other possible mounting locations. I was thinking a good spot for me would be on the ceiling, just before the rearview mirror, in a pod of some kind. Then I could keep the stock dash look. It would have to disclude drilling or tearing up the car though. Maybe something like that already exists. I'll probably Google it.