moving a furnace

king nothing

Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
978
Location
central illinois
How big of a job is it to disconnect and move a furnace? I have a humidifier hooked up to my furnace. The float went bad and Ive had water leaking for a while(don't go into the furnace room often). The drywall and probably the plywood floor need replaced. the drywall is all molded and i cant get to it to replace it without removing the furnace. Obviously, since it is the middle of the winter this needs to happen over a very short time span so my house doesn't freeze. Does homeowners insurance cover occurrences such as this? Probably not worth making a claim with a 1k deductible
 

oldmodman

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2003
Messages
16,543
Location
West Los Angeles
Disconnecting is the easy part. Just shut off all inlet lines and drain any water lines.
How heavy is it? Some cast iron old ones can weigh a ton or more. And they have to be removed in sections.
The insurance question is up to whatever your specific policy says. Get it out before you call your agent.
 

svtcop

Pain Don't Hurt
Established Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2008
Messages
4,237
Location
Ohio
Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours if new. SHUT OFF GAS. Disconnect line(s). remove from other connections (inlet and outlet ductwork etc.)

Very straightforward, not really heavy, two guys if it needs picked up. (it should be slightly elevated already (few inches)

Done.

Insurance should cover, would be a little more pricey than you might think if you contracted it out. maybe 4-5K depending on flooring used.
 

Mr. Mach-ete

Liberals Suck
Established Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2004
Messages
12,801
Location
DelMarVa
Wow, 2 HVAC questions in 2 days, SVTPer's on a rolls. HVACR Master Tech at your service.

If it's a high efficiency furnace it must be propane or natural gas fired. The first and foremost thing you will need to do is secure the gas and electrical shutoff. Most furnaces will have a gas valve which enables you to turn the gas on or off. You will most likely see a union which is used to disconnect the gas connection from the inlet of the gas valve which is located inside the furnace.

You will need to disconnect the duct work from the top and side of the furnace (supply and return). Some duct is screwed and taped in place. If you have a 1/4" or 5/16" chuck for your drill driver this should be all you need. If the supply and return ducts are pop riveted simply take an 1/8" drill bit and drill them out. Regarding the duct, you might need to deal with slip and drive duct connectors. Simply unbend both bent over drive ends, grab one end with a pair of vise grips and pull or hammer the drive off from the duct.

Now that you have managed to disconnect the ducting from the furnace (with out cutting yourself) you will need to disconnect the combustion and intake air lines from the furnace. These lines should be 2"-3" PVC pipes that come off the top and side of the furnace, simply take a hacks saw or a sawzall and cut them free from the furnace. You may want to cut them in such a way that all you need to reconnect them is a couple of couplings and some glue. While were on the subject of PVC lines, you will need to find and cut the 3/4 inch condensate drain lines from the furnace most likely coming from the A coil atop the furnace. Remember to cut these PVC lines so that you may reconnect them with some couplings and glue in the future.

Next you will need to deal with the electrical connections powering and controlling the furnace and air conditioning unit's operation. Go the panel box, prior to starting work, find the breaker labeled furnace and turn it off. Go to the thermostat and attempt to cycle the furnace on, if nothing happens most likely you have been successful in turning off the correct breaker. In reality you need to check this connection with an electrical tester to verify you have turned off the correct breaker. I probably should have mentioned to perform this first, you most likely have completed this task at his point. Now that you have turned off the correct breaker simply go into the junction box and un-wire the hot, neutral and ground from the furnace and pull loose the wiring. You may have several variations of electrical connections, your going to have to deal with them mechanically to separate the wiring from the furnace.

You will need the find and locate the control wiring for the furnace and unwire this as well. You need to determine which of the two control wire leads from the furnace to the thermostat and which one leads the outdoor unit. Get yourself a sheet of paper and right down which colored wires go to which terminal, take a piece of masking tape and label the wires if you must. C R Y W G and possible O if you have a heat pump out side coupled with your furnace.

Now come the tricky part. Sitting atop the furnace is the air conditioning A coil. This coil will have two copper lines piped to it. These 2 lines run directly to the outdoor unit. These 2 lines are also full of the system's refrigerant, up to 10 pounds of it is most instances. There is a high probability that you will need to call a service contractor at this point to either pump down the refrigerant into the outdoor unit (which is what I would do) or reclaim the refrigerant into a clean recovery cylinder to be recharged back into the system when your repairs are complete. Unless you have refrigerant gauges and the tools and knowledge necessary to perform this task I don't recommend attempting this on your own. However, you can set yourself up to the point that the technician's time is minimum helping you finish the removal of the furnace and A coil from the duct system.

When it's time to reinstall the system, just reverse the process to the point when you need the technician to return to make the final connections and test run the system for you. The End.
 
Last edited:

skimskim3074

Banned
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Messages
43
Location
WASHINTON
Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours if new. SHUT OFF GAS. Disconnect line(s). remove from other connections (inlet and outlet ductwork etc.)

Very straightforward, not really heavy, two guys if it needs picked up. (it should be slightly elevated already (few inches)

Done.

Insurance should cover, would be a little more pricey than you might think if you contracted it out. maybe 4-5K depending on flooring used.

That's true for sure.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top