motor swap aftermath, need some input.

[paintballpyro1]

I know this isnt a cobra but i have more luck with the guys on here then over on stangnet. I have a 96 gt auto that i just finished doing a 04 swap along with a t45 conversion.

Ive noticed that after i filled the coolant up im getting a leak from a hole in the firewall on the passenger side under the heater core lines(its about 10in under the lines). Any ideas on why this small hole would start leaking after the swap? I never touched it during the swap and i have already replaced my heater core.

My next problem is the car will crank but not start! if i let it sit i can hear the fuel pump prime and when i turn the key it just cranks(has pressure at rails), if i put it in gear it almost turns over(once only) and then goes back to cranking. If i turn the car off and back on the fuel pump doesnt prime and no fuel pressure at the rails, again this fuel pump is maybe 3.5yrs old and oem full hanger replacment.

Im really hoping im not gonna have to buy a new fuel pump or pull the motor for that small coolant leak.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated

 

[paintballpyro1]

Well got it started but it backfires pretty bad, sounds like a gunshot going off. Only happens after giving it alittle gas and the car shakes a bit but this is a new(used) computer and everything has been disconnected for atleast a month. Does the computer have to relearn and it should run better or do Ipossibly just have another bad motor

 

[THE RED 1]

Crank position sensor or cam position

 

[paintballpyro1]

Well ill give the crankshaft sensor a try, all these little parts are starting to nickel and dime me. Guess its what I get for leaving the car sitting for a year.

 

[paintballpyro1]

Well put a new crankshaft sensor in and it started alittle better but not by much. But still once running it runs real rough and sounds like it has a massive exhaust leak(running lt with no mid right now) and if you give it gas it just seems to bog before the rpm's jump.

Now also the drivers side front o2 is broke(have to take it to a shop to have them remove it,its seized in) would this cause all these issues? Its not throwing any codes and still backfires like a gun going off

 

[Blakonblak94]

Have you double checked your spark plug wire orientation? Did you swap from the auto to manual ecu?

Rooted/Rommed SIII

 

[paintballpyro1]

Will double check spark plug wires and yes swapped ecu out for a manual one. This swap has taken me over 2 months due to work and waiting on misc parts but now that its in, its driving me nuts.

 

[PACIFICGREENSVT]

Where in Mi are you?

 

[paintballpyro1]

Waterford/keego harbor.

Got it running kinda, found out I had 2 plug wires wrong(#2 and #3) so it idles smoother and doesn't backfire. The problem now it it breaks up alittle under load and then you take your foot off the gas and it surges from 600rpm to 1k. Almost dies then idles up a couple times then idles normal(iac problem?)

 

[PACIFICGREENSVT]

check all the vacume lines & ports.
also did you get a base/start up tune?

 

[paintballpyro1]

No tune. Just running with a factory ecu with a almost stock motor(aside from gears and lt)

 

[paintballpyro1]

Well idled better after letting it sit. Gave it gas and wasn't bouncing around but you can still hear it breaking up alittle. I'm gonna end up changing out the plugs and maybe the iac and see if that helps

 

[Doug]

The coolant leak is because there is a screw sticking out of the firewall right around that area that will puncture the hose. I've done this before after my first swap. I just broke the damn thing off the 2nd time I put in the motor. You CAN replace the hose with the motor still in the car but it is a PITA.

 

[paintballpyro1]

Its not leaking from the heater core hoses its just below that, I've looked online and sounds like my heater core may be bad. I bypassed it and its not leaking anymore....guess one more thing to add of things to do,but its like a new car with everything that's been replaced now.

 

[Blakonblak94]

I'm not sure if its the same on a modular, but on pushrods, the long tubes tend to jack with the o2 sensor readings in certain situations since it puts the o2's further down the exhaust stream. A tune would fix that

Rooted/Rommed SIII

 

[paintballpyro1]

Didn't really have much of an issue with the old motor. Any ideas how to get a seized o2 out? I've tried clamping it as hard as I can with vice grips and hit it with a hammer and it just striped the o2 nut...I have an extra o2 I could put in to see if that helps too

 

[Blakonblak94]

Heat? I'm not sure, sounds cross threaded.

Rooted/Rommed SIII

 

[Noreast]

You gotta heat that ****er up red hot than try to take it off

 

[paintballpyro1]

Will try that, Iknow its not crossthreaded. Car sat for a 1.5yrs with being started every so often but Ilive in mi and it was a dd so the salt got to it

 

[Shaunk]

Definately heat! Seems no matter how much antiseize is put on those threads they always need a little heat to coax them into coming loose.