Modern Driveline Hydraulic clutch conversion

MG0h3

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Shit man wish I’d thought of that.

I cobbled together a hydraulic setup on my 73’ CJ5 and there was just slight constant pressure at the MC

Had to add a return spring to solve it.

Pay real close attention to your TOB free play.

TOB should be spinning at all times/riding lightly on PP with no pedal pressure. Set it up so that while running, you can use a finger or two to move the fork/TOB back enough that it stops. Let go and it moves back to contact and is spinning.

This simulates how the factory had it.

10yrs on the Jeep and 9yrs on the Cobra with zero TOB noise or failures.


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Foghorn

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Morehead City, NC
I have the MDL conversion kit. If you search the title of this post, I have another thread that talks about my challenges to get it working. This post is just general info.

On the Cobra, the driver side cam cover has the PCV valve located on the upper rear corner (see pic of silver cam cover). It is very close to where the clutch cable passes through the firewall. The MDL kit repurposes this hole to mount the hydraulic master cylinder, pass through the firewall, and connect to the clutch pedal.

The master cylinder with an integrated reservoir will interfere with the PCV valve, but the master cylinder with a remote reservoir will clear it. Then to find a place to mount the reservoir…

Or, you can change the driver side cam cover to one from a Lincoln Aviator, which moves the PCV forward a few inches. Then the MC with integrated reservoir will clear (see pics of blue cam cover).

In either situation, regardless of which MC or cam cover you use, you will have to cut a small notch out of the coil pack cover (see pics).

Also, if you ever have to service the driver’s side cylinder bank such that you have to remove the cam cover, the clutch MC will have to be removed in addition to all the other stuff.

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