MMR engine?

[Caden807]

Not sure if this is the right thread for this, also not sure if any of you guys remember my last post. But here it goes, I did some digging into the history of my car because it was a little rocky, and by a little I mean a lot lol. Anyways, came across a listing for the car stating that it has a mmr1500 block. From what I was told the bottom end was stock. But, texted the guy I bought the car from and he said that he was told it had engine work but no proof! Very confused, any way to know if stock block or MMR etc? Going to get a tune at Blankenship soon (right up the street) and they are asking everything. Thank you for any help in advance.

 

[Black02GT]

Not sure if this is the right thread for this, also not sure if any of you guys remember my last post. But here it goes, I did some digging into the history of my car because it was a little rocky, and by a little I mean a lot lol. Anyways, came across a listing for the car stating that it has a mmr1500 block. From what I was told the bottom end was stock. But, texted the guy I bought the car from and he said that he was told it had engine work but no proof! Very confused, any way to know if stock block or MMR etc? Going to get a tune at Blankenship soon (right up the street) and they are asking everything. Thank you for any help in advance.

From my experience if it lasted more than 2000 miles its stock. If you're picking pieces off the highway its MMR. (Not hearsay had one for a very short time) No other way to tell really. A lot of good machine shops use an electric pencil to mark parts so if they did head work might be able to tell by pulling the valve covers. Bottom end only no easy way to tell. MMR doesnt make 4.6 blocks so its stock no matter what be it iron or Al. They run manley stuff so essentially stock. Only thing that maybe different if they're using the coyote spec crank and it's a 4.75 now. Shouldn't be a big deal tuning wise if its stock compression.

 

[01yellercobra]

If you can get a scope and you can do some digging. Go through the spark plug holes and you can see the pistons. If you want to check out the bottom end go through the oil drain plug.

 

[Caden807]

From my experience if it lasted more than 2000 miles its stock. If you're picking pieces off the highway its MMR. (Not hearsay had one for a very short time) No other way to tell really. A lot of good machine shops use an electric pencil to mark parts so if they did head work might be able to tell by pulling the valve covers. Bottom end only no easy way to tell. MMR doesnt make 4.6 blocks so its stock no matter what be it iron or Al. They run manley stuff so essentially stock. Only thing that maybe different if they're using the coyote spec crank and it's a 4.75 now. Shouldn't be a big deal tuning wise if its stock compression.

Thank you, will take that into consideration!!

 

[Caden807]

If you can get a scope and you can do some digging. Go through the spark plug holes and you can see the pistons. If you want to check out the bottom end go through the oil drain plug.

Thank you!! Didn’t think about through the oil drain plug!

 

[Black02GT]

If you can get a scope and you can do some digging. Go through the spark plug holes and you can see the pistons. If you want to check out the bottom end go through the oil drain plug.

Didn't think of that. Can check if it has different side bolt too I suppose. Dunno if guys go ARP on the iron blocks or they replace them at MMR. If you call MMR they can probably direct you where to look.

Good luck OP, they make some decent stuff might have just had a bad experience. General consensus around here is their parts are good, assembly ehhhhh. I bought an oil filter adapter from them and came with a gouge in the flange the filter rings sits on. called them "eh the ring will seal that" but if you want ship it back at your expense once received we will inspect and send out a new one (1-2 weeks in the middle of an engine build).