I'm installing my MM panhard bar. I CANNOT get the 3/8" drill bit through the frame rail (instructions step #42). Im leaning into the drill hard as hell, going on 15min on one hole. I tried a DeWalt titanium bit (like new) and a brand new Milwaukee Red Helix Cobalt bit, spraying WD40, won't budge. What am I doing wrong? The initial drilling for the 5/8" holes (step #36 and #37) were simple.
MM panhard bar install help needed
- Thread starter Mark99GT
- Start date
Slow drill speed is your friend. Not familiar with the area being drilled.
Once you dull the outer edges of the cutting surfaces you are done.
Step bits seem to the cure for a lot of drilling issues, just mark which flange you need to stop on.
good luck,
Once you dull the outer edges of the cutting surfaces you are done.
Step bits seem to the cure for a lot of drilling issues, just mark which flange you need to stop on.
good luck,
This. And step bit as mentioned. It's been years since I installed mine, but these are the 'secrets'.
I did the step bit on the outboard frame rail and it went through it like butter. It's drilling through from the outside to drill the inside frame rails. You send the bit in from the outboard side of the frame rail. So my smaller bits for a pilot hole wouldn't reach and I couldn't see what I was doing. I ended up buying a 3/8 carbide tipped cobalt bit and that chewed right through.
However, I royally ****ed up and now need your thoughts. I had the chassis mount u brackets up tight against the bottom of the frame rails when I mocked it up to mark for the drill holes. But the outboard side of the u bracket on both sides is at least 1/4 inch off the frame rail (the u bracket is too wide, so I need to use both included spacers on each side). So when I transferred the markings for drilling I must have angled down because of the gap and "lowered" the holes by about 1/4 on each side. I'm ****ing pissed!!!
How can I fix this? I'm not drilling more holes in the car. I'm thinking I either need to have a spacer welded under the frame rails or added to the top of the chassis mount u brackets. But that means the mount sits about 1/4" lower than it's supposed to. Or, more likely, I'm thinking I'll slot the predrilled holes on the outboard side of the u brackets so the whole mount slides up where it belongs. Then hold the bracket in place and drill through to make the inboard u bracket holes. Which would you do?
Passenger side
Driver side
However, I royally ****ed up and now need your thoughts. I had the chassis mount u brackets up tight against the bottom of the frame rails when I mocked it up to mark for the drill holes. But the outboard side of the u bracket on both sides is at least 1/4 inch off the frame rail (the u bracket is too wide, so I need to use both included spacers on each side). So when I transferred the markings for drilling I must have angled down because of the gap and "lowered" the holes by about 1/4 on each side. I'm ****ing pissed!!!
How can I fix this? I'm not drilling more holes in the car. I'm thinking I either need to have a spacer welded under the frame rails or added to the top of the chassis mount u brackets. But that means the mount sits about 1/4" lower than it's supposed to. Or, more likely, I'm thinking I'll slot the predrilled holes on the outboard side of the u brackets so the whole mount slides up where it belongs. Then hold the bracket in place and drill through to make the inboard u bracket holes. Which would you do?
Passenger side
Driver side
At this point there are really only a few options. Weld up the hole in the frame and redrill, Weld up the hole in the bracket and redrill or slot the holes in the bracket so it sits up against the frame
I agree. I think slotting the bracket is the easiest and I can't really see it causing an issue. I reached out to MM too, but who knows if I'll hear back.
My guess is slotting the bracket will be the hot ticket. Just make sure the bracket fits tight to the frame before bolting it up. Should work out just fine for you.
I slotted the u bracket holes with a Dremel and got it bolted in. Didn't have to remove too much material. It's nice and tight against the frame rails now. I'm considering having a couple tack welds added to the bottom of the bracket/frame rail just for additional assurance. Probably when I get the SFCs welded in.
I believe the way the forces are applied to the bracket it's constantly pushing up against the bottom of the frame rails. If it were a "pulling down" force I'd be more concerned with the slotted holes. The u bracket holes are also only slotted on the outboard sides. Inboard has the round 3/8" hole with the bracket against the frame rail in the right position.
I believe the way the forces are applied to the bracket it's constantly pushing up against the bottom of the frame rails. If it were a "pulling down" force I'd be more concerned with the slotted holes. The u bracket holes are also only slotted on the outboard sides. Inboard has the round 3/8" hole with the bracket against the frame rail in the right position.
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i think you should be good without welding it. Welding would make it a lot tougher to remove if you ever needed or wanted to.
Yes I agree that's certainly a consideration. I finally got the rear end put back together today (did MM adjustable LCAs, lowering springs, and shocks too). Just gotta put the wheels back on and take it around the block to settle the suspension and then bolt the actual bar in and it's done.
Congrats on getting it back on the road
If you want more security, get some washers and weld them on each side to the bracket you slotted. In essence, you are putting a round hold back in the bracket. You might need a slightly longer bolt.
Tom
Tom
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