I'm installing the MM CC plates and have some interference with the line in the picture on the passenger side. The strut install is not complete yet and the car is not aligned yet, but I see the potential interference already. Is this normal, do I need to move this line? It looks like the brake lines on the driver side are a potential issue too?
MM CC plates interference
- Thread starter Mark99GT
- Start date
Most cars have this to some degree. That line can be bent slightly to clear the plate. Be careful not to put to much pressure on the accumulator connection point.
Another option is to put plastic loom over the line or a piece of cut hose. You can wrap it with some Tessa rape to clean it up a little.
Another option is to put plastic loom over the line or a piece of cut hose. You can wrap it with some Tessa rape to clean it up a little.
I just got these in the mail recently and will be tackling this job myself in the next month of so. I've done one before but don't remember that being an issue.
Thanks for the input guys. We'll see what happens when its all bolted up and aligned.
Mine did the same thing. Just moved it very slightly, it seems ok.
If the application is a 94/95, the A/C line is mounted lower, almost along the passenger front frame rail and follows that inner fender back to the firewall - no obstructions with the MM CC plates.
If the application is the 96-04 with the DOHC, the A/C line is run higher up (as seen in the above OP images), due to the width of the engine and the fact that the passenger side header primaries will interfere with and almost come in contact with the A/C line. As others have said, that line can be tweaked if needed, just be careful not to "man handle" it. The line only needs a very slight push towards the engine which will give plenty of room between it and the plate to do the install or adjustment of the plate. CC plates don't move once installed and usually don't get touched again until the need for an alignment adjustment. So even if the A/C line lays back into place naturally and is touching the plate, there's no concern.
If the application is the 96-04 with the DOHC, the A/C line is run higher up (as seen in the above OP images), due to the width of the engine and the fact that the passenger side header primaries will interfere with and almost come in contact with the A/C line. As others have said, that line can be tweaked if needed, just be careful not to "man handle" it. The line only needs a very slight push towards the engine which will give plenty of room between it and the plate to do the install or adjustment of the plate. CC plates don't move once installed and usually don't get touched again until the need for an alignment adjustment. So even if the A/C line lays back into place naturally and is touching the plate, there's no concern.
Thanks for the replies here. I finally got the CC plates, adjustable LCAs, panhard bar (minus the actual bar), Koni yellows, and H&R super sports all installed. The car is still on jack stands as I have not torqued the CC plate nuts yet.
I need to to do an initial garage alignment so I can drive it enough to settle the suspension to install the actual panhard bar and also get it to a shop to be professionally aligned. Any tips on how to do a garage alignment that's "good enough" to get it out of the garage? I've been watching some YT videos, but was hoping for something mustang specific. Also, can I do this initial alignment on the jack stands or does it need to be on the ground?
I need to to do an initial garage alignment so I can drive it enough to settle the suspension to install the actual panhard bar and also get it to a shop to be professionally aligned. Any tips on how to do a garage alignment that's "good enough" to get it out of the garage? I've been watching some YT videos, but was hoping for something mustang specific. Also, can I do this initial alignment on the jack stands or does it need to be on the ground?
WhiteOut
New Member
You can flip the orientation of the top plates by swapping the passenger and drivers side. Almost be willing to bet that it will need to be like that in order to be in the range of camber adjustment the car will need. Had mine flipped before I figured out what I had done
I don't have experience with the 1990's Mustangs - got my first one in 2011 - but I've used various combinations of camber plates, camber bolts and slotted lower strut mounts on every one of them ever since. My GT350 is the first one that didn't need a lot of camber engineering to be stable on the race track.
In this case, it looks like the plates allow both camber and caster adjustment. If you don't want the plate to rest against the A/C line, you have the option of using Ford's "crash bolts". I assume they're available for that vintage - I used them on my S197's. They are just cam-type camber adjustment bolts for the lower mount. There are lots of aftermarket choices but I like the OEM ones. They would allow you to position the upper camber plate away from the A/C pipe a bit, rather than letting it rest against it. The combination of the bolts with the plates would give you precise adjustment for caster and camber without any risk of damage to the A/C line. Thing is, even with some kind of protection, it's best not to put stress on it if you can avoid it.
No need for crash bolts with this set up. The MM plates are precise enough. As mentioned I wouldn't worry about the clearance too much just yet. Things are going to get moved when you get an alignment.
For alignment I've done the string method a couple times for toe and it worked pretty well. Otherwise just grab a tape measure the distance between the front of the tires and then the back of the tires. I think we aimed for an 1/8th" of toe in for mine when I did everything. I used an angle app on my phone to set the camber. When I took the car in the guy said it was pretty close already. Needed a couple small tweaks and it was good.
For alignment I've done the string method a couple times for toe and it worked pretty well. Otherwise just grab a tape measure the distance between the front of the tires and then the back of the tires. I think we aimed for an 1/8th" of toe in for mine when I did everything. I used an angle app on my phone to set the camber. When I took the car in the guy said it was pretty close already. Needed a couple small tweaks and it was good.
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