Methanol/Water Injection Used Only for Cooling Purposes

DavidHasselhoff

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I'm looking at doing an Alky Control kit on my Procharged Raptor. I'm looking to just lower the IATs since it gets rather hot down here. Would anyone recommend just putting the smallest nozzle a few inches before the MAF sensor without tuning the setup? It's only making 8 psi right now; therefore I am worried about running a 50/50 mix since the temperatures the mixture will come into contact with won't fully vaporize the mix & cause uneven distribution amongst the cylinders. I'm looking to run either 100% meth or a 70/30-80/20 meth/water mix. Any suggestions. I'll up the boost later down the road, once I build the tranny; for now I'm staying at 8 psi.

My reasoning for not being partially dependent on the meth injection & getting aggressive with the amount injected is due to the risk of the system failing, causing unwanted lean conditions. Should I slightly tune for the injection or just throw it on top of my tune I have now? I'm okay with tuning the injection to where if the system does fail, the AF ratio will still be "healthy".

Also, I'm looking at doing a 3000 stall on the truck versus the stock 2500? stall. Will there be a noticeable difference or is it a waste of money to increase the stall by 500 rpms?
 

DaleM

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DavidHasselhoff

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I use Cooling Mist on the BMW with a 66.6-33.3 mix estimate. I run up to 18 psi. IATs drop nicely and the A/F stays consistent.

Water Injection, Methanol Injection, Alcohol Injection Systems | water injection Coolingmist

They have been very helpful in recommending a set-up for your end-state with the ability to upgrade nozzles and flow rates relatively easy.

I've looked at cooling mist. Their CMGS PRO kit is nice. The only issue I have is the mixture I'll run to ensure 100% vaporization, which will allow for the best distribution of the mixture.
 

DaleM

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I've looked at cooling mist. Their CMGS PRO kit is nice. The only issue I have is the mixture I'll run to ensure 100% vaporization, which will allow for the best distribution of the mixture.

I am not an expert but doesn't a percentage of the water contribute to the cooling? Most likely the hydrogen aspect of water's composition. 100% vaporization, I'd ask their tech folks about it. They have new nozzle systems out that maximize the vaporization.

You can run 100% injection at WOT or a certain percentage of boost. I start at at 8 psi for 30% and go with 100% at 15 psi. That is with the 66-33 mix. Never an issue and my car is an 08 bought in summer of 07.

Have you run meth much?
 
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DavidHasselhoff

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I am not an expert but doesn't a percentage of the water contribute to the cooling? Most likely the hydrogen aspect of water's composition. 100% vaporization, I'd ask their tech folks about it. They have new nozzle systems out that maximize the vaporization.

You can run 100% injection at WOT or a certain percentage of boost. I start at at 8 psi for 30% and go with 100% at 15 psi. That is with the 66-33 mix. Never an issue and my car is an 08 bought in summer of 07.

Have you run meth much?

I ran the snow stage 3 kit on my GT500, but I was running around 20 lbs of boost.
 

thomas91169

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if you inject pre-IAT then if the system fails your ECU will know it before you do and compensate.

If you run a small shot and inject only for cooling purposes of the intake charge then you really don't need to retune. However if I recall, and its been a while since I tuned with methanol, you are introducing methanol particles and water which takes away oxygen from the combustion cycle, without any additional tuning you may actually lose some power since you are losing some of the energy of proper combustion. Though I think if you are doing a tiny shot for cooling purposes (so instead of your intake charge being like a 110* day itll be like driving a crisp 55* night) it doesn't effect a/f ratio or energy as compared to someone running methanol/alky injection to make up for shit 91/93 octane.
 

DavidHasselhoff

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if you inject pre-IAT then if the system fails your ECU will know it before you do and compensate.

If you run a small shot and inject only for cooling purposes of the intake charge then you really don't need to retune. However if I recall, and its been a while since I tuned with methanol, you are introducing methanol particles and water which takes away oxygen from the combustion cycle, without any additional tuning you may actually lose some power since you are losing some of the energy of proper combustion. Though I think if you are doing a tiny shot for cooling purposes (so instead of your intake charge being like a 110* day itll be like driving a crisp 55* night) it doesn't effect a/f ratio or energy as compared to someone running methanol/alky injection to make up for shit 91/93 octane.

I forgot to acknowledge the water taking away from the combustion. The water does aid in knock retardation due to that & the steam cleaning the engine sees from it are positive trade offs...but like you said, the lower IATs will cause a slight power gain (mainly consistency in power in any conditions) & will most likely overshadow the loss of power from the water causing a loss in combustion energy.
 

Blown38

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If all you are looking for is cooling I would just run straight water. Then you don't have to worry about mixing anything.
 

thomas91169

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I forgot to acknowledge the water taking away from the combustion. The water does aid in knock retardation due to that & the steam cleaning the engine sees from it are positive trade offs...but like you said, the lower IATs will cause a slight power gain (mainly consistency in power in any conditions) & will most likely overshadow the loss of power from the water causing a loss in combustion energy.

The "steam cleaning" effect isn't as big as youd think, seafoaming does better at cleaning carbon deposits than water injection over a long period does. Ive done a teardown of a motor that the owner was running a mix of methanol/h20 to replace fuel (his fuel trims were stupid low, like 60% IDC from 105% he was using so much mix to replace fuel) and it didn't look very clean at all, still had a good amount of carbon deposits throughout. Pulled apart another motor that had been seafoamed 2-3mo earlier (my car) and it was like a brand new motor on the inside, save for the rod bearing chunks floating through the oil galley.
 

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