Hey guys I just installed a Mcleod RST clutch and Mcleod flywheel in my 13 GT. Got it all together and it is not disengaging completely. With the engine on it will not let me go into any gear what so ever and i started the engine with the car in gear and with the clutch pressed all the way down the car started rolling. Any ideas? I installed a new TOB and stainless clutch line too and pumped the pedal over 1k times yesterday (I counted) and the pedal is firm. I really dont wanna take the trans out again....
Mcleod rst install problems
- Thread starter Vegas5OH
- Start date
I would try putting a vacuum pump on the brake boost and see if you can suck out any air bubbles.
If not did you put the proper shims in for the floater / pressure plate? Sounds like one may be dragging.
If not did you put the proper shims in for the floater / pressure plate? Sounds like one may be dragging.
Thanks for the reply! The clutch did not come with any shims to use. When I torqued the floater plate the bottom disk still spun freely and did untill I torqued the pressure plate. The car will go into gear barley if the rear wheels are off the ground.
Your problem is what aaron said some mt- 82's need shims on the slave for the proper distance of engagement. if the car moves with the clutch pedal the floor thats the issue...
yes it does move with the clutch to the floor if i put it in gear. So where do i buy these shims and how many do i need, I have 4 days to get the car working again lol. Will a local parts store have them? Thank you for the help guys this is my first clutch job and of course i screwed it up
This makes me alittle concerned myself. I just got my RXT and there were no shims in the box. I have not got around to installing it yet. Is a shim pretty much needed with all aftermarket clutch jobs? Should I just order one now?
I know that the disks in my RST are installed correctly, the bottom one was able to turn freely. I torqued everything to spec, put in a brand new slave. Is there a particular bleeding procedure for putting in a new slave other than pumping the pedal?
I have done alittle searching on this myself as I get prepared to install mine and it looks like you can get a vacuum pump to get the air out. I have seen the term "Mighty Vac" thrown around a few times while searching.
Pulled this from another Forum post.
from the shop manual
SECTION 308-00: Manual Transaxle/Transmission and Clutch — General Information
Vacuum Pump Kit
416-D002 (D95L-7559-A) or equivalent
Make sure all hydraulic lines are correctly seated. Make sure all bleed screws are tightened to specification.
Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
Make sure the clutch pedal is in the most upward position.
Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark.
Using a suitable bleeder kit and a vacuum pump, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure the rubber stopper has a tight fit.
Alternate method: use a 50 mm (1.96 in) rubber stopper with an 8 mm (0.31 in) pipe inserted through the rubber stopper.
Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve the vacuum. Remove the special tools.
Check the fluid level of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Install the reservoir cap.
Depress and release the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
Repeat Steps 4 through 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
Install the reservoir cap.
Check the clutch pedal reserve. Test the clutch system for normal operation
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That's not what Aaron said or meant. Read his post again.
OP try vacuum bleeding the clutch reservoir.
One guy with an RXT had a similar issue with him not being able to engage gears completely. He vacuum bled the reservoir and his problems went away.
Pumping the clutch pedal will not always work out.
One guy with an RXT had a similar issue with him not being able to engage gears completely. He vacuum bled the reservoir and his problems went away.
Pumping the clutch pedal will not always work out.
Also check inside the car on the side of the clutch pedal is the clutch master cylinder. I just had one fail and it was and had the same symptom's as you. sounds like there is no or limited fluid going or getting to the slave.
My comment was more towards the air gap between the discs and the floater.
I ended up just taking the car to a mustang shop around here. its too damn hot here in vegas and its too damn shitty to pull the trans out again on jack stands. Guy said that i probably need a spacer behind the slave because the pedal is firm.
I bet that pisses you off....I'd be furious. I hope you get it squared away soon and I hope it shifts like a champ. Would I be correct to assume that the stock clutch would get soft or stick to the floor when shifting where you need to with the cj setup?
im not really pissed im just glad its gonna be done the right way. Yes tho I put the cobra jet on and the stocker did not even let me shift at 7k. it would get real soft and lock me out and i would lose because it took me so long to shift. im so looking forward to driving it with the new clutch and seeing if the car feels faster with the new super light fly wheel
Please keep this updated because I now deal with the same issue, even though I don't have a CJ. You still on the stock shifter and bracket?
I got my car back and it turns out i put the top clutch disk in upside down, damn it. All is well now and I couldnt be happier! The car now shifts at 7500RPMs with no effort at all and the car shifts much smoother and easier even just normal driving. If I could start over this clutch and flywheel would be the first thing i would have done to the car. GT915 I have a MGW gen II shifter with the race bushing installed, amsoil syncromesh fluid, braided clutch line, helper spring removed, and the mcleod set up. None of these things helped solve the lock outs in the slightest except for the clutch, there is no getting around it. Highly highly recommend the mcleod clutches.
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