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Marauder
Marauder Returnless Fuel System
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<blockquote data-quote="musclemerc" data-source="post: 14003073" data-attributes="member: 97857"><p>Instead a taking a chance and deflecting the metal (attempting to weld to the fuel pump hanger bracket) I decided to use nylon locking nuts/bolts, and teflon spacers to hold the two together</p><p>[ATTACH=full]557301[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]557302[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]557303[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]557304[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I added a PPRV for a total of 2. The PPRV's were kept in line mainly in the event one pump fails to prevent back feeding fuel into a disabled pump. The car will still be 100% drivable in the event I loose 1 of the pumps. The PPRV has a built in check valve and it also has a blow off valve built in.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]557305[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Now to the fun part! I needed to add a new fuel line and a new pair of wires through the hat without the possibility of a fuel leak, the options are few in this department and was definitely one of the biggest obstacles. Racetronix has a bulk head wiring harness </p><p><a href="http://www.racetronix.biz/customkititems.asp?kc=BCWA%2DFL98HD&eq=" target="_blank">Racetronix - FL98 / F7 Bulkhead Connector Assembly - Kit Configuration Page</a> </p><p>The problem with this harness is the connector has a push on one way clip that holds it in place. You push it tight with a flathead screwdriver and hope for the best. I found a company that makes a true bulkhead fitting that also has provisions for a pair of 12awg wires with -0- chance of a fuel leak. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]557306[/ATTACH]</p><p>The wire that passes through the tank cannot be standard off the shelf stuff. Teflon coated PTFE certified wire is the only way to go. This stuff is military grade wire that will not wick when submerged in any grade of gasoline</p><p>[ATTACH=full]557307[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>For the fuel pass through I wanted to keep it cheap and use 5/16" I.D. submersible fuel hose on both sides of the hat. the bulkhead is a -6AN and the blue fitting on the outside of the hat was special ordered from Australia (I couldn't find a US seller with a -6AN to 5/16" barbed 90* fitting)</p><p>[ATTACH=full]557308[/ATTACH]</p><p>Here's the hat completely modified with dual hangers, dual PPRV's, corrugated hose deleted, dual GT pumps, and dual wiring +-/+-</p><p>[ATTACH=full]557309[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]557310[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I installed a smaller sock on the pumps to ensure they will ride on the bottom of the basket inside the tank</p><p>[ATTACH=full]557311[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The modified hat dropped right into the tank no issues at all. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]557312[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>To connect the 90* barbed fitting on the outside of the hat to my homemade fitting for the stock OEM SS hose I used a short piece of submersible fuel hose and put a piece of nylon braid around it to protect it from the elements.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]557313[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>Currently I have the system setup to run the 2 FPDM's and the 2 GT pumps full time. This is more than enough fuel for my current power level. I still wanted to make it easy for upgrades in the future so I plumbed a hobbs switch inside of the pillar pod. The switch is set for 4lbs of boost and I wired the dry contact of my 40amp BAP. I soldered up a manifold for the nylon hose feeding the boost gauge/hobbs switch.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]557314[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>Here's the hobbs switch. I wrapped it in rubber insulation </p><p>[ATTACH=full]557315[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Gen1 AeroForce Interceptor, Auto Meter boost gauge, and Innovate A/F gauge</p><p>[ATTACH=full]557316[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>With 2 GT pumps, dual FPDM's, full wiring upgrade, and a 40amp BAP this design should support any returnless system making up to 700HP/700TQ. I don't see my Marauder ever going past 575HP so I have plenty of room to grow. </p><p>I barely crack 90% FPDC @WOT with just the dual FPDM/GT pumps (no BAP) :burnout:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="musclemerc, post: 14003073, member: 97857"] Instead a taking a chance and deflecting the metal (attempting to weld to the fuel pump hanger bracket) I decided to use nylon locking nuts/bolts, and teflon spacers to hold the two together [ATTACH=full]557301[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]557302[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]557303[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]557304[/ATTACH] I added a PPRV for a total of 2. The PPRV's were kept in line mainly in the event one pump fails to prevent back feeding fuel into a disabled pump. The car will still be 100% drivable in the event I loose 1 of the pumps. The PPRV has a built in check valve and it also has a blow off valve built in. [ATTACH=full]557305[/ATTACH] Now to the fun part! I needed to add a new fuel line and a new pair of wires through the hat without the possibility of a fuel leak, the options are few in this department and was definitely one of the biggest obstacles. Racetronix has a bulk head wiring harness [url=http://www.racetronix.biz/customkititems.asp?kc=BCWA%2DFL98HD&eq=]Racetronix - FL98 / F7 Bulkhead Connector Assembly - Kit Configuration Page[/url] The problem with this harness is the connector has a push on one way clip that holds it in place. You push it tight with a flathead screwdriver and hope for the best. I found a company that makes a true bulkhead fitting that also has provisions for a pair of 12awg wires with -0- chance of a fuel leak. [ATTACH=full]557306[/ATTACH] The wire that passes through the tank cannot be standard off the shelf stuff. Teflon coated PTFE certified wire is the only way to go. This stuff is military grade wire that will not wick when submerged in any grade of gasoline [ATTACH=full]557307[/ATTACH] For the fuel pass through I wanted to keep it cheap and use 5/16" I.D. submersible fuel hose on both sides of the hat. the bulkhead is a -6AN and the blue fitting on the outside of the hat was special ordered from Australia (I couldn't find a US seller with a -6AN to 5/16" barbed 90* fitting) [ATTACH=full]557308[/ATTACH] Here's the hat completely modified with dual hangers, dual PPRV's, corrugated hose deleted, dual GT pumps, and dual wiring +-/+- [ATTACH=full]557309[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]557310[/ATTACH] I installed a smaller sock on the pumps to ensure they will ride on the bottom of the basket inside the tank [ATTACH=full]557311[/ATTACH] The modified hat dropped right into the tank no issues at all. [ATTACH=full]557312[/ATTACH] To connect the 90* barbed fitting on the outside of the hat to my homemade fitting for the stock OEM SS hose I used a short piece of submersible fuel hose and put a piece of nylon braid around it to protect it from the elements. [ATTACH=full]557313[/ATTACH] Currently I have the system setup to run the 2 FPDM's and the 2 GT pumps full time. This is more than enough fuel for my current power level. I still wanted to make it easy for upgrades in the future so I plumbed a hobbs switch inside of the pillar pod. The switch is set for 4lbs of boost and I wired the dry contact of my 40amp BAP. I soldered up a manifold for the nylon hose feeding the boost gauge/hobbs switch. [ATTACH=full]557314[/ATTACH] Here's the hobbs switch. I wrapped it in rubber insulation [ATTACH=full]557315[/ATTACH] Gen1 AeroForce Interceptor, Auto Meter boost gauge, and Innovate A/F gauge [ATTACH=full]557316[/ATTACH] With 2 GT pumps, dual FPDM's, full wiring upgrade, and a 40amp BAP this design should support any returnless system making up to 700HP/700TQ. I don't see my Marauder ever going past 575HP so I have plenty of room to grow. I barely crack 90% FPDC @WOT with just the dual FPDM/GT pumps (no BAP) :burnout: [/QUOTE]
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Marauder Returnless Fuel System
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