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Mach 1
Mach motor build dummy here.
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<blockquote data-quote="snakeraper11b" data-source="post: 13095674" data-attributes="member: 128473"><p>Those diamonds blow manleys out of the water in all aspects. If you're paying more than that for manleys, you're wasting a lot of money.</p><p></p><p>These rings will work well. <a href="http://www.excessiveracing.com/CS8264-25.aspx" target="_blank">Total Seal CS8264-25 - Advanced Profiling Stainless Steel Piston Ring Set 1.5mm x 1.5mm x 3mm, 3.572" Bore</a> Make sure you use an engine builder who knows what the he is doing and has built high performance modulars before, I recommend L&M if the car can be down for a few weeks. The stainless rings require a different finish to the cylinder walls than moly rings. </p><p></p><p>Oem size rod bearings on the new rods and probably .001" less clearance once the crank is cleaned up and polished, maybe oem sizing, but that will be up to your engine builder once the time comes.</p><p></p><p>Head gaskets have two important dimensions: Compressed height, and bore diameter. The compressed gasket thickness desirable for our cars is generally .036". The bore diameter you want is 3.625", although 3.630" will work as well for a cylinder bore of 3.572". With decking the block to .008" is will give you a piston to head clearance of .044", which is just about optimal for the parts being used.</p><p></p><p>The stock rod bolts that come with the manley H beams are the limiting factor of the rod. Generally around 750-850 hp and 7500rpm. If you plan on going near those upgrade to the ARP2000. However, I'm all about overkill. It's much cheaper to pay $100 extra now and upgrade and not worry about it, than have the engine fail, or have to upgrade them down the line when you want more.</p><p></p><p>If you pull the engine yourself, and install it yourself, you should meet your price goal. Also, make sure you have them degree your cams when the engine goes back together, it's worth it. Average shop price is around $300-400 on top of the build.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="snakeraper11b, post: 13095674, member: 128473"] Those diamonds blow manleys out of the water in all aspects. If you're paying more than that for manleys, you're wasting a lot of money. These rings will work well. [url=http://www.excessiveracing.com/CS8264-25.aspx]Total Seal CS8264-25 - Advanced Profiling Stainless Steel Piston Ring Set 1.5mm x 1.5mm x 3mm, 3.572" Bore[/url] Make sure you use an engine builder who knows what the he is doing and has built high performance modulars before, I recommend L&M if the car can be down for a few weeks. The stainless rings require a different finish to the cylinder walls than moly rings. Oem size rod bearings on the new rods and probably .001" less clearance once the crank is cleaned up and polished, maybe oem sizing, but that will be up to your engine builder once the time comes. Head gaskets have two important dimensions: Compressed height, and bore diameter. The compressed gasket thickness desirable for our cars is generally .036". The bore diameter you want is 3.625", although 3.630" will work as well for a cylinder bore of 3.572". With decking the block to .008" is will give you a piston to head clearance of .044", which is just about optimal for the parts being used. The stock rod bolts that come with the manley H beams are the limiting factor of the rod. Generally around 750-850 hp and 7500rpm. If you plan on going near those upgrade to the ARP2000. However, I'm all about overkill. It's much cheaper to pay $100 extra now and upgrade and not worry about it, than have the engine fail, or have to upgrade them down the line when you want more. If you pull the engine yourself, and install it yourself, you should meet your price goal. Also, make sure you have them degree your cams when the engine goes back together, it's worth it. Average shop price is around $300-400 on top of the build. [/QUOTE]
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