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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
A Taste of Home
Mid-Atlantic Cobra Association
MACA work on my car day???
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<blockquote data-quote="TRBO VNM" data-source="post: 8042791" data-attributes="member: 14678"><p>you don't need to replace the flywheel bolts since they are not torq to yield. I agree on the pp bolts since they are a torq to yield.</p><p></p><p>I would highly recommend the firewall adjuster and quadrant. I agree on the BAP and MAFia, add in the wire upgrade as well. I would do the LDC freeplay kit as well. cheap mod.</p><p></p><p>And as wheelhopper said, ford racing TOB even though the spec clutch comes with their TOB.</p><p></p><p>the stock flywheel can be resurfaced, but I would strongly recommend against it. at first I thought it was a good idea if it can be done. not all can be done, it depends on how hot your flywheel got and if the rivets have started pulling through. I have had a 50% hit rate on whether they can be resurfaced or not. I have also seen 2 resurfaced flywheels end up having the teeth on the flywheel start rattling. so imo, the stockers can only handle so much and from what I could tell after friday Chris, I would go ahead and invest in a new flywheel. I would go with the fidanza. it has a replaceable friction plate and the flywheel and friction plate are cheaper than the spec. I have done both of those flywheels with great success over the past few yrs.</p><p></p><p>make sure you remove the clutch fork pivot ball and throw a couple washers behind it. this helps put the other end of the fork farther away from the pressure plate. there have been known cases after putting in new clutches and flywheels that when the clutch is fully depressed, the fork rubs the pressure plate. putting the washers behind the pivot ball will eliminate this potential issue.</p><p></p><p>let me know if you have any other questions.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>my stage 3 is very light. I wouldn't bother with the 3+.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TRBO VNM, post: 8042791, member: 14678"] you don't need to replace the flywheel bolts since they are not torq to yield. I agree on the pp bolts since they are a torq to yield. I would highly recommend the firewall adjuster and quadrant. I agree on the BAP and MAFia, add in the wire upgrade as well. I would do the LDC freeplay kit as well. cheap mod. And as wheelhopper said, ford racing TOB even though the spec clutch comes with their TOB. the stock flywheel can be resurfaced, but I would strongly recommend against it. at first I thought it was a good idea if it can be done. not all can be done, it depends on how hot your flywheel got and if the rivets have started pulling through. I have had a 50% hit rate on whether they can be resurfaced or not. I have also seen 2 resurfaced flywheels end up having the teeth on the flywheel start rattling. so imo, the stockers can only handle so much and from what I could tell after friday Chris, I would go ahead and invest in a new flywheel. I would go with the fidanza. it has a replaceable friction plate and the flywheel and friction plate are cheaper than the spec. I have done both of those flywheels with great success over the past few yrs. make sure you remove the clutch fork pivot ball and throw a couple washers behind it. this helps put the other end of the fork farther away from the pressure plate. there have been known cases after putting in new clutches and flywheels that when the clutch is fully depressed, the fork rubs the pressure plate. putting the washers behind the pivot ball will eliminate this potential issue. let me know if you have any other questions. my stage 3 is very light. I wouldn't bother with the 3+. [/QUOTE]
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A Taste of Home
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MACA work on my car day???
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