Not going to do a write up because there are many out there already. Just gonna offer a few tips, applicable to all, but especially the poor saps laying on the ground, like me. (I swear within the next year I am putting a lift in the garage).
1. Spray penetrant on everything the day before. Maybe a couple of times. If you are dead set on removing every stud, buy a stud extractor as you will probably need it. I was able to remove all except 2, and I just clean them up and left them in there.
2. Buy a new set of factory studs & nuts. I did not do this & had to use some of the Mac header bolts because some of the old studs/nuts were in too bad of shape to reuse. I think the studs are much better, allow you to easily align the gasket, and down the road give you 2 different ways to remove them, if they become stubborn.
3. Remove the K member. Yes some have did it without doing so, but trust me, it is not worth the hassle. There is little enough room as it is. Literally we are only talking 15 nuts & or bolts, if my memory serves me correctly & this includes the calipers, rack & pinion, & tie rod ends. I have a tubular, and I still removed it. Takes under an hour if you have an impact.
3. Basic sockets, extensions, a u-joint will get to the nuts to get the manifolds off. Do yourself a favor, & buy a 13mm crowsfoot wrench for the install. There are a couple nuts on each side, where this thing is priceless & with it, you can still torque to spec vs trying to use a stubby wrench. The two rear most ----- lowers on passenger side are almost impossible without it. Piece of cake with it. AND remove the passenger side motor mount. It is only 3 nuts/bolts & saves a ton of irritation.
4. When installing mid pipe, especially in Mac Pro Chamber, make sure it is running parallel to floorboard before you tighten it down, or you will loose ground clearance.
5. YES you need O2 wire extenders for the front 2 sensors.
All in all, it was not a bad job. I took the time while I had the clearance opened up to install a SLP line lock and to flush the old brake fluid out of the system (also got to install new MC since I stripped on of the line fitting threads). I also change tranny fluid while things were opened up. Discovered I had a couple ripped seal boots on front calipers, so rebuilt them. This was done over a couple weeks just because the weather has been so crappy, I was not in a big hurry. If I had to guess, the header & mid pipe was probably 12 hours total, less all the extra crap. I could probably cut it in 1/2 if I were to do it again, now that I know the ins & outs of it. I used Percy gaskets. I ran through 3 heat cycles and re-torqued before reinstalling the K member. Which reminds me, I was able to do that because I spent $80 @ Harbor Freight and bought this engine support:
Sounds great with Magnaflow Catback and not too loud or raspy. That is all. I will come back and edit if I think of anymore useful advice.
1. Spray penetrant on everything the day before. Maybe a couple of times. If you are dead set on removing every stud, buy a stud extractor as you will probably need it. I was able to remove all except 2, and I just clean them up and left them in there.
2. Buy a new set of factory studs & nuts. I did not do this & had to use some of the Mac header bolts because some of the old studs/nuts were in too bad of shape to reuse. I think the studs are much better, allow you to easily align the gasket, and down the road give you 2 different ways to remove them, if they become stubborn.
3. Remove the K member. Yes some have did it without doing so, but trust me, it is not worth the hassle. There is little enough room as it is. Literally we are only talking 15 nuts & or bolts, if my memory serves me correctly & this includes the calipers, rack & pinion, & tie rod ends. I have a tubular, and I still removed it. Takes under an hour if you have an impact.
3. Basic sockets, extensions, a u-joint will get to the nuts to get the manifolds off. Do yourself a favor, & buy a 13mm crowsfoot wrench for the install. There are a couple nuts on each side, where this thing is priceless & with it, you can still torque to spec vs trying to use a stubby wrench. The two rear most ----- lowers on passenger side are almost impossible without it. Piece of cake with it. AND remove the passenger side motor mount. It is only 3 nuts/bolts & saves a ton of irritation.
4. When installing mid pipe, especially in Mac Pro Chamber, make sure it is running parallel to floorboard before you tighten it down, or you will loose ground clearance.
5. YES you need O2 wire extenders for the front 2 sensors.
All in all, it was not a bad job. I took the time while I had the clearance opened up to install a SLP line lock and to flush the old brake fluid out of the system (also got to install new MC since I stripped on of the line fitting threads). I also change tranny fluid while things were opened up. Discovered I had a couple ripped seal boots on front calipers, so rebuilt them. This was done over a couple weeks just because the weather has been so crappy, I was not in a big hurry. If I had to guess, the header & mid pipe was probably 12 hours total, less all the extra crap. I could probably cut it in 1/2 if I were to do it again, now that I know the ins & outs of it. I used Percy gaskets. I ran through 3 heat cycles and re-torqued before reinstalling the K member. Which reminds me, I was able to do that because I spent $80 @ Harbor Freight and bought this engine support:
Sounds great with Magnaflow Catback and not too loud or raspy. That is all. I will come back and edit if I think of anymore useful advice.
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