Lowest ceiling garage with lift

Mojo88

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So the good news is, nothing but attic space. However, it is a hip style roof so I don't have a ton of length the duration of the garage as the roof trails down towards the front. I would also need to modify the trusses to allow for drywall to be raised. I imagine trust mod would not be cost effective.

Woohoo!!!! That's awesome. This now becomes a no-brainer IMHO. Cut/mod as many trusses as required. Box/frame the open space (to appropriate engineering specs, of course). Install lift!

You may even consider a dormer for the garage roof in that area, for full height along the entire length of a vehicle. Extra $$$$$, but it's a whole lot cheaper than moving, LOL. Of course, you may not even need the dormer. Most vehicles are lower in back (or front) than they are in center, so even if the ceiling slope caused some clearance issues with a van, it might work just fine for most cars and trucks.
 
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AssPikle

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Woohoo!!!! That's awesome. This now becomes a no-brainer IMHO. Cut/mod as many trusses as required. Box/frame the open space (to appropriate engineering specs, of course). Install
You may even consider a dormer for the garage roof in that area, for full height along the entire length of a vehicle. Extra $$$$$, but it's a whole lot cheaper than moving, LOL. Of course, you may not even need the dormer. Most vehicles are lower in back (or front) than they are in center, so even if the ceiling slope caused some clearance issues with a van, it might work just fine for most cars and trucks.

You sir have me seriously considering this. Thanks for the help. I will talk with an architect and see what they say. Thanks for the input.
 

joshcarp81

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Skip the architect and go talk to a lumber yard that deals with building packages.
They can contact an engineer or truss manufacturer to tell you what you would to do to modify the trusses before you cut em. The lumber yard i deal with for supplies charges nothing for this information. Unless you have an architect friend.
 

Mojo88

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Yeah, I totally agree with the above post. You don't need architect for this, unless you know one, that is. Engineer or qualified contractor should be able to fix you right up.

Local ordinance for me requires me to first; get permit. Then, if getting into structural work, I would be required to show engineer-provided structural load calculations and plans (which I did), then gave all that to my contractor and it was off to the races.

Please post some before and after pics. I gotta think this will work out great.
 

earico

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Modifying the trusses is your best idea. Or you could get a scissor style lift like a Ranger 5000. Lots of guys use those. It's not like a full height lift but better than nothing. Can pull engines with them since the middle space is clear.

I have 10' ceilings with a Atlas BP8000. Love the lift and the price from Greg Smith is very reasonable. My GTR will get right at 6' off the ground. The lift will go higher but that's the spot where my roof gets close to the ceiling.
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offroadkarter

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I was looking into the Maxxjack two post lift. 8' minimum ceiling height with a 4", 2500-3000 psi slab.


they are such garbage lifts, I've posted about them a bit on this forum in the past.

I guess in a "this or nothing" situation it's better than jackstands, but you're going to have to deal with some shoddy chinese build quality.
 

HudsonFalcon

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they are such garbage lifts, I've posted about them a bit on this forum in the past.

I guess in a "this or nothing" situation it's better than jackstands, but you're going to have to deal with some shoddy chinese build quality.

Is there a similar 2 post, low ceiling option that you would recommend? Definitely dont mind. spending a little extra for a quality lift.
 

offroadkarter

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Is there a similar 2 post, low ceiling option that you would recommend? Definitely dont mind. spending a little extra for a quality lift.


I could be very wrong on this but I believe the Mohawk 2 posts have shorter post heights but still lift high and have real safety locks. They're not as cheap as a dannmar lift but they're US made, ALI certified and have very good reviews from what I've seen.

Here is what i posted about the maxjax a couple years ago, my friend who owned this gave it to his brother and bought a challenger 2 post lift when he moved.

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/lift-suggestions-or-feedback.1101409/#post-15192298

I don't want to come off like a lift expert, I've been doing a bit of reading on them because I'm looking to pick up a rotary 2 post and challenger 4 post myself, but I have used the maxjax for working on cars before and it's literally a "better than jackstands" only option. Most people who buy these are corvette owners who use it to polish their mufflers and wheels. Having the car rock up and down by an inch while it was centered was not a good experience when dropping a trans. We had to take the lift apart and shim the guide blocks for the carriages so the thing wouldn't rock as bad.

True story, about a year into ownership my friend had issues where when the lift was coming down it would chatter and skip. He called the dannmar and the customer service rep (who has since changed several times over) and the guy on the phone said "wow your lift is how old? that's impressive, the seals don't normally last that long". They sent him a bottle of seal conditioner which didn't fix it, he had to use a different grease in the posts than dannmar suggested.

He ended up getting roped in with the Dannmar engineering team and the shimming was the field fix for all the rocking. Here is a thread he had a few years back on the whole story.

MaxJax owners, can you please look at my pictures and see if yours is like this - The Garage Journal Board

In short, yes it works, yes it's a bit sketchy, no it's not particularly made well.
 

AssPikle

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Thanks for all the input guys. Was talking to a buddy and he recommended digging up the garage floor and go down. I only need about 2 feet. Has anyone ever heard of doing this? Sounded like a good idea to me as long as you can tie into the footers properly
 

HudsonFalcon

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I could be very wrong on this but I believe the Mohawk 2 posts have shorter post heights but still lift high and have real safety locks. They're not as cheap as a dannmar lift but they're US made, ALI certified and have very good reviews from what I've seen.

Here is what i posted about the maxjax a couple years ago, my friend who owned this gave it to his brother and bought a challenger 2 post lift when he moved.

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/lift-suggestions-or-feedback.1101409/#post-15192298

I don't want to come off like a lift expert, I've been doing a bit of reading on them because I'm looking to pick up a rotary 2 post and challenger 4 post myself, but I have used the maxjax for working on cars before and it's literally a "better than jackstands" only option. Most people who buy these are corvette owners who use it to polish their mufflers and wheels. Having the car rock up and down by an inch while it was centered was not a good experience when dropping a trans. We had to take the lift apart and shim the guide blocks for the carriages so the thing wouldn't rock as bad.

True story, about a year into ownership my friend had issues where when the lift was coming down it would chatter and skip. He called the dannmar and the customer service rep (who has since changed several times over) and the guy on the phone said "wow your lift is how old? that's impressive, the seals don't normally last that long". They sent him a bottle of seal conditioner which didn't fix it, he had to use a different grease in the posts than dannmar suggested.

He ended up getting roped in with the Dannmar engineering team and the shimming was the field fix for all the rocking. Here is a thread he had a few years back on the whole story.

MaxJax owners, can you please look at my pictures and see if yours is like this - The Garage Journal Board

In short, yes it works, yes it's a bit sketchy, no it's not particularly made well.

Thanks for the info. I'm no expert either but the research I did do the Maxxjack kept popping up. The reviews were definitely mixed.
 

blue 07

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How about a "Quick Jack" car and truck lifting system ? I hear lots of good reviews.
 

Mojo88

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Thanks for all the input guys. Was talking to a buddy and he recommended digging up the garage floor and go down. I only need about 2 feet. Has anyone ever heard of doing this? Sounded like a good idea to me as long as you can tie into the footers properly

Yikes, that sounds like a HORRIBLE idea to me. I absolutely can't imagine doing that, or why he would suggest it, unless there is something about your particular situation that I'm missing.

Why not get a QUALIFIED contractor over there to give you some ideas?????
 

earico

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Yikes, that sounds like a HORRIBLE idea to me. I absolutely can't imagine doing that, or why he would suggest it, unless there is something about your particular situation that I'm missing.

Why not get a QUALIFIED contractor over there to give you some ideas?????

Agree. Cutting wood is almost always better than cutting and removing concrete.
 

AssPikle

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Right on. I just called an architect buddy of mine and he agreed, going up would be easier. I'm thinking the costs though would be too much to justify. Thinking 25k to 40k which would include new roof. Not enough room to just raise the truss heights, would need to change roofline as well.
 

AssPikle

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Yikes, that sounds like a HORRIBLE idea to me. I absolutely can't imagine doing that, or why he would suggest it, unless there is something about your particular situation that I'm missing.

Why not get a QUALIFIED contractor over there to give you some ideas?????

Might do that as well to see what options or ideas they have.
 

joshcarp81

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How big is your building that the estimate was 25 to 40k?
Better be pretty damn big......
Even doing a 12 pitch scissor truss on a 2 garage would possibly half approach that bottom number for sure.
A day to prep interior, two days for demo, day to set new trusses and sheet/dry in. A day for finish trims on outside a day to shingle a day to put the inside back together.
I dont mess around on jobs though either. Im there to make money, make the customer happy and gtfo!
 

AssPikle

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How big is your building that the estimate was 25 to 40k?
Better be pretty damn big......
Even doing a 12 pitch scissor truss on a 2 garage would possibly half approach that bottom number for sure.
A day to prep interior, two days for demo, day to set new trusses and sheet/dry in. A day for finish trims on outside a day to shingle a day to put the inside back together.
I dont mess around on jobs though either. Im there to make money, make the customer happy and gtfo!
Ok, so do you do work in Florida? Maybe you can give me a quote?
 

joshcarp81

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Lol, no way. id rather deal with cold winters instead of hot ass summers. Florida is nice to visit this time of the year. I do primarily kitchen and bath remodels now. Throw in decks and room additions every so often. So ive gotten spoiled with mostly working indoors for projects so the winters are easier to tolerate.
Anyways, the estimate provided to you was quite a spread. Talk to a reputable contractor that has worked with people you know and visit a lumber yard and ask for contractors who are reputable and do the type of work your looking to have done.

You guys laugh at digging out the concrete... i helped a friend years ago that does excavation work on the side and he had a customer that did just that. Dug out 2' of ground and existing concrete slab. The garage was a 3 bay with a 16' door and a 9' door. The customer left the floor alone in the 9' side snd dug out the other side. It was different, but it worked. I never did get to see the finished product. May need to drive past this weekend.....
 

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