lower control arms...

on-3svt

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i have lakewod LCA and everyone says they are junk...
and i havent felt a difference in them
so i wanted to get a good set of lca so what kind should i get
:read:
 

CY98Cobra

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as far as i know there isnt much difference between lower control arms. as long as they are solid they should work fine. but anyways, x2c has a helluva deal on a set of uppers and lowers. steeda, upr, maximum motorsports, d&d motorsports, almost everyone makes lower control arms. pick the one with the lowest price (from a reputable company).
 

cobra4v

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I have MM lca on my 98 Cobra. I heard these don't bind and crack the torque box.
 

OCSnk

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For the rear lower control arms go with the Global West lower GW TBF1 control arms or Ford Motor Sports # M5649G they are both the same, you will not need uppers. These are the best! I've had them on my car for 7 yrs now!!

controlarms9if.jpg


Global West's super duty rear lower control arms are designed as a factory replacement unit. They are intended for applications that require the utmost control. Drag racing, road racing, autocross, and street performance cars will benefit by using our super duty rear control arms.
Part# TBF-1 (pictured left) utilizes spherical aircraft bearings
and DEL-A-LUM (pronounced della-loom) Bushings to control
rear end lateral movement as well as fore and aft location.
TBF-1's allow full rear end articulation without bind, making them
superior over any polyurethane based control arm.
TBF-1's also eliminate the need for a panhard rod because lateral
location is already provided by our unique control arm design.

You can get them from MaximumMotor sports
 

SVTCobra306

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Go with the HPM Mega-bite Jr.s. You won't regret it. You Will need uppers, if your car has any torque at all. Otherwise you get some pretty bad wheelhop, since the Jr.s change the rear suspension geometry a bit.

I noticed that with the Jr's my rear end kicks into the pavement instead of just spinning the tires, and controlling a slide is waay easier.

If you didn't notice a difference between lakewoods and stockers (and you should have) then you won't notice a difference between lakewoods and any other standard replacement LCA. You need either SSM lift bars or the HPM's. These both change the pinion angle and the angle of the LCA in relation to the uppers...

BTW SN95 Chassis cars do not have the torque box issues that foxes have, so I wouldn't be too worried about getting spherical bushings or anything. That little bit of bind helps your swaybar out, too.
 
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cobra4v

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Black98COBRA said:
Fox bodies have weak torque boxes, they are quite abit stronger on the 94+ cars
It's a relief to know that. I was going to bring it to the shop to have the torque box reinforce. Thanks for pointing that out.
 

on-3svt

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i had the ssm solid bushing lift bars and they tore the boxes damn near out of the car
got battle boxes welded in and put the lakewood arms w/urethane bushings
and steeda dbl/adj./ urethane up top. set the pinion angle and i am still spinin the hell out the tires through 2nd havent tried it since i got the 50 50 lakewood shocks on back
 

CY98Cobra

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it is possible to break the torque boxes on these cars but much easier in a fox body. i have read just welding the seams makes them a lot stronger.
 

97CasperCobra

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Black98COBRA said:
it is possible to break the torque boxes on these cars but much easier in a fox body. i have read just welding the seams makes them a lot stronger.

what ARE the torque boxes??

I'll only be putting Maximum Motorsports on my ride.... :coolman:
 

cobra4v

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I think it is the area where the front of the lca bolt on to. I read somewhere that Ford just tack weld the torque box on to the chasis. Under extreme load the tack welds failed. Using MM lca will reduce the chances of the torque box failure.
 
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